Another NV4500 to NP205

[franken]

Originally Posted by Orange Crate

Planetary range box, that sound serious. When do you use that? I have a 92 NV and 4.56 gears so Ill need to be at around 33" on tires with the O/D.

The planetary is from another TC, like a 241. The 205 has a 1.96:1 low which some consider not low enough. The PO swapped the original 205 for a 208 for that reason. It gives the TC another low (1.96*2.6).

A similar mod is using an NP203 range box to do the same thing.

[SunSoaked]

What did you use for a bellhousing? Mech or juice clutch?

[Orange Crate]

Originally Posted by SunSoaked

What did you use for a bellhousing? Mech or juice clutch?

I missed this question. I haven't made a decision yet on the bell housing. I'd like to go with the AA BH but $$. I read the post below. He drilled his NV4500 to fit a standard 4 speed BH. You have to bolt the two together from inside the BH and install it that way but that's the way auto trans are anyway. Decisions...decisions....

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=611566

[obijuan]

advance adapter bell is worth it. I have it with hydraulic clutch in my 85 blazer. if you redrill the case you could end up like a guy on ck5 and the loctited torqued bolts could back out and cause catastrophic failure. unikely but would ruin it and turn it in to a terrible situation just to save a couple bucks.

I have the 32 spline flat flange with a ford superduty front driveshaft. It is 1350 spicer ujoints and a 4.25 bolt circle with the 2" pilot. fits almost any new flange out there nowadays and is very easy to find. Do some research on em but a new one can be had here locally for 400 built to your measurement. There are two different types. the rounded cv yoke ears is the ideal one.

sunsoaked, stock front yoke on the d60 is 1310 which is generally more than sufficient for most folks. but there aint no kill like overkill.

[Orange Crate]

Originally Posted by obijuan

advance adapter bell is worth it. I have it with hydraulic clutch in my 85 blazer. if you redrill the case you could end up like a guy on ck5 and the loctited torqued bolts could back out and cause catastrophic failure. unikely but would ruin it and turn it in to a terrible situation just to save a couple bucks.

I have the 32 spline flat flange with a ford superduty front driveshaft. It is 1350 spicer ujoints and a 4.25 bolt circle with the 2" pilot. fits almost any new flange out there nowadays and is very easy to find. Do some research on em but a new one can be had here locally for 400 built to your measurement. There are two different types. the rounded cv yoke ears is the ideal one.

sunsoaked, stock front yoke on the d60 is 1310 which is generally more than sufficient for most folks. but there aint no kill like overkill.

Thanks this info is much appreciated. I was looking at Denny's and other custom made 1350 CVs. I seriously doubt that I will ever need 1350 joints but the rest of the drivetrain is all 1 ton so what the h3ll. It would be really nice to have the AA BH as it would save some time and hassle putting it all together. It sounds like the easiest route.

[sweetk30]

dana44 / corp 10 bolt and dana 60 front yoke at the diff are same size all 3 . only major thing to watch for is durring axle swap to dana 60 . pinion is bigger and sits back more . so check for drive shaft length so no bottom out problems.

[doubleclucker]

Orange Crate -
that thread link you posted is mine and just to let you know ol' Black is still driven everyday with no catastrophic failures lol
Any questions just ask on my thread also I have a front maxiumizer lsd and total dana 60 rebuild comin soon.
cheers

[Orange Crate]

Originally Posted by doubleclucker

Orange Crate -
that thread link you posted is mine and just to let you know ol' Black is still driven everyday with no catastrophic failures lol
Any questions just ask on my thread also I have a front maxiumizer lsd and total dana 60 rebuild comin soon.
cheers

Yes, thanks again for that post. I reread it the other day just for fun, so looking forward to your D60 work. I rebuilt mine before I stuck it under the truck. Good work there on your set up, those are the ultimate option(s) I think. I've been in aviation for 30 years so I would definitely use safety wire like you did for the attachment hardware.