"52 3600/3100"

[joedoh]

congrats on getting back to it!

Originally Posted by Mains52

Here's a plan update: 3100 Frame/ Mustang II still 50/50 on air or coil overs

I will tell you, setting up a mustang II on air isnt easy because the spindles and upper arms are very short. this leads to a ton of camber change through the lift dump range. make sure you set ride height with the lower arms level or close to it, sometimes that means a higher drive height than you want but it will keep your tires alive.

[Mains52]

Originally Posted by joedoh

congrats on getting back to it!




I will tell you, setting up a mustang II on air isnt easy because the spindles and upper arms are very short. this leads to a ton of camber change through the lift dump range. make sure you set ride height with the lower arms level or close to it, sometimes that means a higher drive height than you want but it will keep your tires alive.

Thanks, I will probably do coil overs just to keep it more do able for my skill level but I would love to have air on something some day. I still have first dibs on a 59 apache that I really want so I could always bag that.

[dsraven]

here are a couple of pics of my 5.3 avalanche. it started throwing codes and this was the cause. the fix is also included as a visual for what the recommended repair looks like.

[dsraven]

when you get serious about the mustangII front end, check out heidt's "understanding independent front suspension" in their tech section.it outlines what the geometry should look like and why. understand also that the digital level used for installing the cross member should be set on the lower control arm pivot bolt, fore to aft, in order to get that pivot level to the ground. placing the level on the cross member leaves room for error because the top of the cross member may look to be in the same plane as the shaft but could easily be out several degrees. (use a length of rod the same size diameter as the pivot bolt but longer so that it can be left sticking out of the cross member far enough to get the level on it).
so,
check frame for square and straight. corner to corner etc
get the frame at the desired rake angle
level the frame side to side with digital level, placed on top of a long straight bar if you only have a short digital level
block the frame securely in that position
mock up the cross member with axle center line in the correct place for wheel fitment to the fender wheel opening
tack it in place

post lots of pics, we all like to see what you are doing.
mock up the front end and place a wheel on to see if you like it

[Hampshire]

I will tell you, setting up a mustang II on air isnt easy because the spindles and upper arms are very short.

Question for Joedoh (just curious): Many Mustang ll vendors will sell you a kit with longer a-arms, Increasing the track (from stock AD) anywhere from about 2" to a bit more. (centers the wheels in the fenders when looking head on at the front end) - would the longer A-arms make the set-up you cautioned about easier?

I think Scott's uses this wider track)

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Hampshire

Question for Joedoh (just curious): Many Mustang ll vendors will sell you a kit with longer a-arms, Increasing the track (from stock AD) anywhere from about 2" to a bit more. (centers the wheels in the fenders when looking head on at the front end) - would the longer A-arms make the set-up you cautioned about easier?

I think Scott's uses this wider track)

no. its the spindle height that is the problem, the box (upper to lower to spindle height) is very short and just laying it out on cardboard with pins will show you. thats why mustang II trucks with airbags always look squished in front, big wheels make it worse. some trucks like later IFS rangers have the same problem and one solution is to raise the upper arm mount.

its totally livable, though. camber alone doesnt kill tires, toe is the real enemy. I used to drive trucks in my youth with 5 degrees of camber and 2-3" inches of lift everyday. it just doesnt meet everyones expectation of a bagged ride, when they want to lay out on the running boards and then lift to a respectable height. in the trucks of my youth it was common to lift high to turn and lower back to ride height.

so I guess all I am saying is, use drop spindles and know what to expect about airbags. dont lift too high either, the way the arc of operation works the camber will go negative positive negative in a lift cycle.

[Mains52]

Road trip this weekend and got a frame, inner fenders and the lower grill piece for $200. Made out pretty well I think. This Derek fella from Iowa was one of the nicest guys I’ve ever met. I haven't spent barely any time in the garage since hunting season started so never mind the cluttery mess.

[Mains52]

Weekend update. Took my s10 frame to the old mans barn yard snagged my front axle set up off of my 3600 frame and manage to slap it on the new frame and also mock up the new rear end. Still having a back and forth battle between IFS vs drop axle on the front and 4-link vs a flip kit on the rear all is with budget on the mind of course. Also made a commitment to carb my 5.3 by buying a brand new edelbrock carb off a guy at work for $150. I was the first one to take it out of the package so I figured 150 was a decent deal for a 650cfm.

[Mains52]

First 2018 Update: After my entire family, including me battled the stomach flu all week and weekend. I was able to get out in the garage for an hour last night and cut my bed sides down the 9 1/4 to make them shortbed sides. I forgot to take pics so those will come later. Hope everyone else started the new year off in the garage/shop. I have a triangulated 4 link on the way and have committed to bagging my truck. Its what I wanted form the get go and I decided I don't care how long it takes to buy it all. I am going to bag it.

[Mains52]

Got this baby on the way!! Can't wait to get it on. I was told I could have a garage day this weekend so I plan on prepping the frame and getting the boxing plates at least tacked on.

[whitedog76]

Originally Posted by Mains52

Got this baby on the way!! Can't wait to get it on. I was told I could have a garage day this weekend so I plan on prepping the frame and getting the boxing plates at least tacked on.

Spoken like a true family man. LOL.

Is that the CPP unit?

[Mains52]

Updated boxing plate pics. My welder says I need 030 wire to weld the 1/8 plates so with my 023 I just tacked them in place to get them in there. only used a cutting wheel and barely a half to get them cut out. I thought for sure it was going to use all of my cutting wheels. I like how they turned cant wait to get them fully welded in and the MII put in. I also wire wheeled behind where the boxing plates went and threw some rust reformer paint on the frame for some extra protection down the road.

[Mains52]

Got my crossmember in the mail today. This thing looks great. It also came with boxing plates to my surprise. I am very pleased and cant wait to get this baby on. Should have a rolling front end by the end of March.

[Mains52]

Got out and got the rocker removed last night and started to try and hammer and dolly the floor flat again. I am pretty sure this thing was bit by a semi. Holy cow it has more wrinkles than a scrotum.