Junk yard front suspension removal

[jarrodblake]

I'm heading to the junkyard tomorrow. Everything is 50% off so I am looking to pick up a few parts for my disk brake conversion on my 1970 c30. I am trying to decide the best way to remove the front suspension. Ideally I would like the to remove the complete front cross member with the suspension, but I assume the engine is still in it. So my plan is to remove the front control arms together leaving them attached to the spendel if possible. My main concern is removing the lower control arms and having the spring shootout. Also the truck is on blocks and your not aloud to jack it up.

So any thought on the best way to remove the suspension?

[stsalvage]

Boy If people really understood GM.

GM wanted you to be able to swap things easy.

This is not Ford OK ford was the problem child

The frames on the 1960--72 from a 1/2 to to a 1 ton truck

Frame is the SAME.

Now Let me tell you all a little story.I worked for a Race shop for 3 summers.

They build BAHA 1000 Race trucks from 1969-1987.

I went to work for them as a kid back in 1979.You would never use a 1/2 ton ball joint for off road use.if you do the first big rock you hit doing 40 mph you you shear that ball joint right off and you go for a ride.

The trucks they had at the shop where a few 1972-77 chevy trucks.some where 1/2 tons but mostly the cheap ones they could find where the 3/4 ton or 1 ton trucks.

I was a kid all i did was clean the sop No hands on work.But what i saw some of these guys do.i picked up on.

OK you have a 3/4 ton truck you want better gas mileage plus you want a lighter package.

Most guys will say you have to change front ends and rear ends.

Let's look at the front ends.I've been working on nothing but 3/4 ton truck for the last 10 years.

Things i found out the upper shafts for the upper bushings have a bigger bolt where your shims for the alignment are.

You run into a problem the 3/4 ton and 1 ton have a bigger upper and lower bar's the holes are bigger for the screw in bushings.

People still freak out when they run in to this Problem.Morons and they call them self's free thinkers ya right.

Well if you ever looked at a stock 1/2 ton spindle where the ball joint goes there a sit load of Metal up there.

Now take a reamer and try not to take to much metal out or you fk up a nice set of spindles.

Or you call CCP an ask if they have a set of 1/2 ton or drop spindles that will fit a 3/4 ton or 1 ton ball joint.Problem Fixed.

Any of you guy ever been in a 1/2 ton truck and sheared off the upper or lower ball joint.I've had 3 of them go on me.

You guys with Really lowered truck should invest in 3/4 inch ball joints never seen one brake but on a 36000 tool truck 1 ton.

Now on the leaf springs.

GM is not into spending any more money then they have too 1 spring fits every thing if you have a light truck you get 3-4 leaf springs a 3/4 ton depends on what it will be doing.some come with 4 with a big helper leaf witch mean's a Litter short big Fat one at the bottom.

Now my 1968 longhorn has 7 leaf springs that rear end Dose not move.this is the truck with 8 1/2 foot bed I will show a pic for some of you that don;t know what a longhorn is and some of you that have never seen a 1968 396 400 ac with roof light truck before.Yes they existed.I've seen a 1967 longhorn a white one

This just came to me I need to check to see if my 1/2 ton rear end in my 1971 chevy truck with leaf spring is narrower where the spring preaches are cus the 1973--87 frames are 2 inches wider cus there bumpers don't fit are trucks.

Need to check on that.

Best thing for any one trying to do a swap the rear end from a 1973--87 would be best cus they where all leaf spring.


Now the guys that have coil springs you guys are in a bit of a pickal.

You have 2 options.

1 change over to leaf springs all the holes are there to do it buy a rear end and buy the peaches for the leaf springs for 1/2 ton.

2 buy a 6 lug rear end 1964--70 and do the axle's and spider gears witch is 400.00 to 600.00 after shipping or tax.

But the front ends should never have to be swapped.Just means you have a 3/4 ton Ball joints on your 1/2 ton spindles.Me i rather have a thicker meatier ball joint if your going to slam your ride.Lots of pressure in on them ball joint at those ark degree's

[stsalvage]

I've been doing mine to my 1972 and 1971 1/2 been redoing the upper and lower bushings and ball joints.Spend the money and buy MOOG.

Take a jack with you take a crowbar.shove the crow bar down in between the coil spring make sure its at a angle keeps the spring from flying out to kill you.Take a big slege hammer and a pickle fork to brake lose the lower ball joint.Don't do the top one.Leave the nut on but lose use the jack to lower slowly.

If you can after you get the spring out.take the upper A arm off with the spindle still hooked to it.Check the bolts where the shim's sit on if they are lose you will need to buy new ones of there really lose find another A frame.Cus those bolts that hold the upper A arm on Need to be Tight can not move they are Pressed in to the A frame they do not go throw the frame.

I found out after words when i had my engine in i had to drop my A frame to get to them bolts.

They are just like your studs in your axles they have to be pressed in.Seen guy Just weld them.

But if you ever strip them you up **** creek with out a paddle.

Look at my post with my 1968 longhorn.You should call CCP before you go out and buy a front end 250.00 Now work being in the cold and the snow and the mud to where you are in your shop where its warm and all your having to buy is 190.00 of Moog ball joints and upper and lower screw in shafts.Be in it for a hole lot lesser.

Just give them a call and ask if they make spindles that fit a 3/4 ton Ball joint for a 1/2 ton spindle ask them if your tie rods will work with there lowered spindle or stock spindle.Just a thought .Or go buy the spindles and use the 3/4 ton ball joints and ream out the hole but don't do it to much of you have a lose ball joint in your spindle.

Call them you be surprised