08-08-2016, 10:05 PM | #26 |
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Re: Ol' 1968 C10
pictures
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10-23-2016, 02:35 AM | #27 |
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Re: Ol' 1968 C10
Well, it has been awhile since I have been on this thread. Since the last post, the truck has been through more disassembling. The Bed has been disassembled so that the floor and bed sides could be cut down to a short bed side. Also, the inside of the cab has been taken apart to be painted with the original factory color. The engine and transmission have been mocked up and put together until we are ready to actually put it together. Tonight I polished/sanded one of the hubcaps that came with the truck, really don't know if I like it polished. I will have to see it on the truck. Other than that, we are making pretty good progress in which I think we will hit the finish date. Ill post some picture tomorrow.
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12-13-2016, 09:41 PM | #28 |
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Re: Ol' 1968 C10
Hello guys, it been about 2 months since I've posted on the progress of this truck. A few things have happened. Due to school and getting college applications summited has left me little to no time to work on this beauty. Lucky for me I get on break this Friday, making me able to work on the truck for about 2 weeks. Now for the things that changed on the truck. Took the bed apart, found some new holes in the drivers side area and patched them, and I've almost completely sanded the trucks interior to spay it with a rubber coating.
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12-13-2016, 09:46 PM | #29 |
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Re: Ol' 1968 C10
Here are pictures of the holes I found and the hub caps before some light sanding and after to clean them up a bit. What do y'all think? Also wanted to know you all's recommendation for the rear end gears. I am running a positive differential and might use 4.10:1 gears. By the way this truck is going to be used daily and be taken on road trips.
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12-14-2016, 11:41 AM | #30 |
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Re: Ol' 1968 C10
Its looking good!
On rear gear selection, give it a lot of thought and determine the "primary" use of your truck. I think 4.10/1 would be a little steep for freeway driving, but if youre mainly going to be on city streets, it might be ok. Its kind of expensive to set in a set of rear gears, so you don't want to make too many mistakes there. My drive train is totally diff. than the one you want, so my choice was diff. I chose a 3.08 (although not my first choice, it should provide the drivability I'm looking for. Good luck,,
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1997 shortie stepside 1968 short stepside 1966 mustang 1966 chevelle ss Dont always go the cheapest route--You can save yourself into the poorhouse! My Build Thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=489030 |
12-14-2016, 07:36 PM | #31 | |
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Re: Ol' 1968 C10
Quote:
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12-27-2016, 10:36 PM | #32 |
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Re: Ol' 1968 C10
Hello guys, last week I made a big step to the build including cutting welded bolt to the wheel tubs, welded the drivers side outer rocker panel, took the front of the truck off and took out the engine and transmission. Here are some pictures of the progress. Now the truck looks like a project truck!
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12-28-2016, 07:55 AM | #33 |
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Re: Ol' 1968 C10
Looks like decent progress to me, nice job on the patch panels
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Larry It is easily overlooked that what is now called vintage was once brand new. "Project 68" paypal.me/ldgrant |
01-02-2017, 09:03 PM | #34 |
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Re: Ol' 1968 C10
Starting off the New Year right. Took the frame off the cab and switched it with a short bed frame. Came out pretty good. Switched all the other suspension to this frame and also some of the cross members because the 69 swb frame didn't have them.
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01-30-2018, 11:13 PM | #35 |
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Re: Ol' 1968 C10
Hello everyone,
Its been over a year since I’ve last updated on this build thread. A small amount of work has gone to the truck due to school. Moving away to attend college is a significant factor for this truck to just sit and collect dust. However, a small amount of work has been done to the truck. The truck finally received its new engine half way through summer. It is an aluminum 6.2L truck engine that was converted to resemble a LS3. We eliminated all the unnecessary things that it didn’t need and replaced the whole serpentine belt system with a serpentine belt system from a LS3. We also replaced the stock intake manifold to a LS3 intake manifold, but a small vital piece of the manifold broke which made it unusable. Custom wiring harness was made for the engine and transmission. For the transmission, we used a 4L60E. I am a little skeptical that the transmission will hold up to the power that the engine will put out. I would have liked to mate the engine with a 6L80E transmission to not have any problems but the 4L60E was the only option at the time. Moving towards the rear of the truck, we replaced the factory rear end with a more modern rear end. The rear end is a 4.10 gearing, positive differential with brake disks. I’m not too sure on the driveshaft that the truck currently has but it is a one-piece shaft. All these major parts were sourced at a Salvage/Junkyard where my dad works at. Moving to the body of the truck, the radiator support was repaired in one corner due to rust. I tried to cut the long bed fleet side bed panels down to short bed fleet side bed panels but that didn’t work out, so now I must replace both the sides. I also cut the bed floor and that came out great, same length of a real short bed floor. I also patched up some rusted-out areas on the upper passenger side of the windshield. It came out okay, but I’ll have to use a bit of bondo to make it all smooth and look like nothing ever happened there. Lastly, my dad sent the passenger door to a “body shop” to repair the lower portion of the door and they messed it up. The door is no longer useable because the replacement door panel isn’t even aligned properly, and the weld seems aren’t smooth at all. And they also broke my side mirror which was original to the truck (and unfortunately, they threw it way instead of giving it back for me to try to repair it). But oh well, what can you do. Luckily there’s some doors at my dad’s job and the only thing wrong with them is a large hole where they tried to fit a speaker. |
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