tools to break down split rims

[mike16]

Sodly, two peice rim, my post 16 above shows the rim, the ring and the assembled rim, let me know if anybody needs other pictures, I want this to be a learning experince. so others can make an informed choice regarding thier split rims. not out of fear or ignorance.

Also I cant believe GM would put so many of these rims on so many trucks over so long a period of time and they would be notorious for killing customers. How come Ralph Nader never jumped all over this like the corvair, Not so sure its all so bad.

and another good question.... I wonder if there are any NOS/NORS firestone rings still out there? and if so....where? Please dont say e bay

[chiefcfd]

Originally Posted by sodly

mike16, can you show us a photo of the wheels you're dealing with? Is it a 3 piece? I thought all 3/4 ton wheels when to the split ring design like mine by 66.... and surely by 68. Why are your wheels the (presumably) older style? Maybe factorystock can explain it.

Hey, let's see the survivor truck, too!

Sodly, you are correct there a 3 piece design wheel with a solid bead ring and a smaller locking ring. It is by far the easiest to change. However the wheel he has is a 2 piece design solid ring was around in the later 60's. I'm not sure which was available on a K-20 or not. The widow maker in an above post was the most dangerous wheel on the larger trucks. It was a true split wheel. I changed a lot of these from the middle 70's till around '95. Oddly enough the only time I was injured was from a 14" passenger tire on a manual tire changer. The bead broke while I was airing it up and caught me in the face. These wheels are safe enough IF they are handled properly and caution is used when airing them up. Always seat the ring with less than 10 PSI before completing.

[mike16]

any recommendations for tubes and flaps?

I have made a few discoveries shopping for tubes and flaps,

The diameter of the hole where the valve stem passes through the rim has changed over the years. did anybody know that? In years past the hole diameter was larger and the valve stem for tubless tires and tube tires could fit through the hole.The hole was the same diameter. At some point the industry standard for this changed and now.... the hole diameter is smaller and "designed" to fit valve stems for tubless tire rim. The solution if you are putting tubes in one peice rims is to determine if the hole needs to be bigger and drill it out to the correct diameter for the valve stem diameter for tubes . Go figgure!

Another conundrum I have discovered is that my tube valve stems need to be about 3-4 inches long and bent at a 90 degree angle to extend far enough out to actually be filled with air. Lots and lots of radial tubes out there but with little short valve stems. Very reasonably priced at 13 to 18 dollars each. but when you go for the longer bent valve stem tubes, prices get up around 26-35 dollars a piece.

I have not yet located a radial tire light truck 7.50x16 tube with the bent longer valve stem. The only tire shop in my town is looking for me. I'm going over to the next town where ther are several tire shops to get prices and availability for these tubes and flaps.

Anybody run into this. I shopped online but doing a search once you get to a vendors online store nets some rediculous offerings.

many vendors offer tubes, however incorrect that carry American and Offshore brand names. I'm leaning towards American brand names but that clearly does not guarrentee American made or quality.

What workes for others?

Also shopping tools at NAPA

Any reccomendations? Jack Furrier,Big O, Discount, BF Goodrich, Goodyear Michilin Firestone?

[sodly]

My 7.50x16 tubes are Carlisle TR150s. They have the longer, bendable valve stem that you're talking about. My tire shop had them on hand, in stock... no problem.

Incidentally, not sure what tires you're considering but Yokohama makes a really nice 7.50R16 highway/rib style tire that's just the ticket (unless you've got a 4x4). It's the RY215.

[factorystock]

Originally Posted by sodly

Is it a 3 piece? I thought all 3/4 ton wheels when to the split ring design like mine by 66.... and surely by 68. Why are your wheels the (presumably) older style? Maybe factorystock can explain

The 3 piece style was used on the 17" 8 lug wheels and on some pre '65 15" 8 lug wheels. All '66-'72 16" 8 lug wheels were 2 piece lock ring design. The difference is the lock ring style( split or continuous )is interesting, which I really never noticed before. IMO, most were supplied by Goodyear, with the non continuous ring(split), versus the Firestone version with the solid ring. I can only guess if there was a change in '68 to Firestone style. The '68 in photo appears to have a solid ring while the '67 clearly shows the non continuous ring(split) version.

[sodly]

I'm not familiar with that design, Mike16. I agree with factorystock that those suckers must be a bear to take apart. Honestly, I don't understand how they separate. How can that outer ring spread enough to come off the rim? I guess I'm confused about how they're supposed to work.

[mike16]

the outer diameter of the ring is round, but the inner ring is shaped like an oval. the wider part of the oval fits over the rim with just enough effort to stretch it on. harder to explain than to demonstrate. I'm thinking I'd like to do a demo you tube deal. When I can scratch together some coin for the tools.

[MusicMan70]

Here is one from a 73 GMC

[mike16]

starting to develope reserves. soon I will have a complete set five functional split rims. I am gathering tubes and flaps. as well. you cant tell in any of these pictures but the valves have long since been removed

[Stocker]

Sorry but I gotta hijack. This reminds me of something from 1977 when I bought my '72 K20. It had split rims (lock ring wheels, actually) with new 7.50-16 highway tires. I drove straight to a tire shop to trade for Armstrong Rhino mud & snows which came with new liners folded up inside each tire. One wheel just would not balance. The guy finally gave up and removed the tire, only to find the brand-new liner still folded up inside the tire.

He put it back together, finished the job, thanked me for my business and asked me to please not come back as long as I had those wheels.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by Stocker

Sorry but I gotta hijack. This reminds me of something from 1977 when I bought my '72 K20. It had split rims (lock ring wheels, actually) with new 7.50-16 highway tires. I drove straight to a tire shop to trade for Armstrong Rhino mud & snows which came with new liners folded up inside each tire. One wheel just would not balance. The guy finally gave up and removed the tire, only to find the brand-new liner still folded up inside the tire.

He put it back together, finished the job, thanked me for my business and asked me to please not come back as long as I had those wheels.

That guy was kind of a dumb bunny, yes? I'd be embarrassed to find that problem, would learn from it, and not repeat it. Though I really do prefer tubeless tires.

[mike16]

this has become a real PITA! but its nessessarry for origonality. My choice and yes about 50% more expensive than tubless/radials.

[mike16]

and some more pictures. this is how old rubber is removed so as not to damage the rim. Between three rims and two trim rings gathered so far only one rim and one ring are worth a ($*^%@. About 200$ in tools so far and no end in sight.

[mike16]

and the end result... so far

[AK49Watson]

Been turning wrenches in the Army for 11 years. Yet to see anything with a split rim.

[mike16]

keep looking, they are out there

[mike16]

here is an interesting video about the two pc rim break down like what I'm dealing with. Sorry about the profanity.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9baJJVB16Y&t=80s

[71meangreenc10]

Originally Posted by AK49Watson

Been turning wrenches in the Army for 11 years. Yet to see anything with a split rim.

What type of unit are you in now? The Army started phasing out the split rims some years back (don't know the exact year). You can still see some M149A2's with split rims, those are getting replaced with the newer assembly. Saw them on the M870 series trailers. M172 Lowboys probably still have them, mine at Bragg still had them. All the trucks I had changed them out. Sadly, the Army doesn't even want you to change assemblies anymore.

Smitty (Retired last year 915E W4)

Mike does have his hands full with these rims....

[harpo231]

Originally Posted by AK49Watson

Been turning wrenches in the Army for 11 years. Yet to see anything with a split rim.

Dodge Military trucks had the first beadlocks, called Combat Wheels; The 'combat wheels' were a divided-rim, that used a bolted-on retaining ring replacing the normal split ring wheels.

[harpo231]

Aint gonna add 5 cents to value ... why mess with em

[sawman]

helps to break the tire off the bead on the backside by using a high lift/handy man jack.you can put it down and use the botton on the tire as you jacking up something heavy as soon as you start jacking,push the top of the jack forward to get the flat base to slide between tire and up against rim,might take a few times,but never had it not work,alot of 20 in tires i did,solid ring/split ring are not that dangerous,if you feel unsafe put a chain around tire through the rim center,the 2 piece split rim,is the widow maker,had a friend loose his arm airing one of those up,always put the split ring/solid ring back on in the same place,

[mike16]

Originally Posted by harpo231

Aint gonna add 5 cents to value ... why mess with em

thanks for going to the trouble to add your 2 cents . to me a good split rim is worth 29.95$ more than that if anybody has some.....

lots of construction equipment still uses multi piece rims and alot of that is in Iraq And Afganistan and its OD green. some desert tan

I read a few books on performance chassis tuning and max run out is 1/16th of an inch or .0625 / inch according to several sources. it ought to be much less than that but 63 thousandth is the max.

all of my rims are between 17 thousandths of an inch and 72 thousandths of an inch. most of that run out is caused by somewhat thick and uneven paint and the hi side of nicks cause by Gorilla warfare.

note that the pointer is measuring the ring itself but you must also measure the rim; the black part just above the ring , as well

[mike16]

on the inside of the rim the same set up is used. note that it avoids the wheel weight,

because of oil leaks, I wiped down the rim with a shop rag moistened with WD40. then measured run out.

It does not surprise me that my rims are pretty straight They weigh an enourmous amount and are very stout. even the junk rims I have aquired are straight.

summary: no more than 62 thousandths, measure in two locations on the front side and one on the back side. the dial guage set up came from harbour freight. it cost like 50$