70 C20 w/HEI Starter Stays Engaged, Ignition Switch Smoked

[CW4B]

I also ohmed between the connections on the new ignition switch and compared it to the same measurements (OPEN/CLOSED) on the old ignition switch in two ways with the following anomolies (difference between the switches).

Bottom Line: Vettevet was correct, the old switch was shorting BATT to SOL while switch was in RUN. This caused the starter solenoid to stay energized after engine start, which caused the unpleasant screeching noise after start. Also, I believe, that the old ignition switch connector and purple SOL wire and the next door neighbor ACC wire overheated and melted when I inadvertently left the ignition switch in the run position too long when I was trouble shooting.

TEST: Ground (switch chassis) to G1stayed OPEN in the START position. Not cause of issue though and not a problem given that I don't have a temperature warning light in the dash.

TEST: BATT to SOL was CLOSED (connected) in the ACCESSORY and RUN positions, which is wrong. Should be no power to SOL during ACCESSORY or RUN ignition switch positions. This means that starter solenoid had power when ignition switch was in ACCESSORY, RUN and START positions and the circuit is neither designed to handle that much amperage continuously or keep the starter solenoid engaged all of the time, which caused the purple SOL wire to get scorching hot and melt the ignition switch connector and the adjacent brown and brown with white stripe accessory wires and of course the starter to stay engaged the whole while.

Sorry for the overly detailed explanation, but it helps me work things out. I don't want to burn up the new parts.

Speaking of being concerned about the new parts just getting burned up again, in a previous post, I documented the ohm measurements I took of the wires that go into the ignition switch. Was trying to determine if any of them were shorted to ground or to each other. Some of the measurements were lower than I expected, meaning I was expecting infinity or 0.L meter reading and instead saw readings of 125 ohm or 6K ohms. If anyone can take a look at the measurements I documented in the other post and let me know if i should be concerned, please do and thanks!