I started popping brake light fuses, need help. - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

00droptopSS · 05-04-2004, 05:56 PM

I started popping my tail light fuse. When my headlights and park lights are on it won't blow, but when I try to hit the pedal the lights don't come on and it blows the fuse. They have worked fine since the resto and just started to act up.

Any ideas on where to start?

*dtlilly* · 05-04-2004, 06:12 PM

Start at the rear unplugging as you go to the front. Keep replacing fuses until you isolate where the bare wire is.

Cat Fuzz · 05-04-2004, 06:16 PM

Just find the wires at the back and start tracing them forward. Look for bare wires that might be rubbing somewhere. You've got a dead short somewhere in your brake light circuit. Might want to check your bulb sockets too, just in case. The short could also be before the switch, so look there too.

cdowns · 05-04-2004, 07:21 PM

the wires run down the inside of the driversside framerail they are commonly all dryrotted and where they're clipped to the frame they usually shorted out. the easy fix is to go to either a trailer supply or marina supply store and the sell the 4wire leads by the foot for cheap

Longhorn Man · 05-05-2004, 05:47 AM

Turn on your turnsignals, one of them should probably blow the fuse too, and it'll tell you which wire you need to be looking at.

00droptopSS · 05-05-2004, 10:04 AM

I traced it down to the brake light switch. The connector was corroded and I think it shorted as a result. I got lucky it was an easy fix.

05-04-2004, 05:56 PM	#1
00droptopSS 2.5/4 on 20's Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Shreveport, LA Posts: 392	I started popping brake light fuses, need help. I started popping my tail light fuse. When my headlights and park lights are on it won't blow, but when I try to hit the pedal the lights don't come on and it blows the fuse. They have worked fine since the resto and just started to act up. Any ideas on where to start? __________________ 62 C/10 SWB. Currently in ground up resto. Big back window cab, V8, auto. My wife's grandfather's truck. 1965 Mustang Vert - Shelby Clone 2005 Dodge SRT-10 My Old 72 SWB

05-04-2004, 07:21 PM	#4
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	the wires run down the inside of the driversside framerail they are commonly all dryrotted and where they're clipped to the frame they usually shorted out. the easy fix is to go to either a trailer supply or marina supply store and the sell the 4wire leads by the foot for cheap __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

05-05-2004, 10:04 AM	#6
00droptopSS 2.5/4 on 20's Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Shreveport, LA Posts: 392	I traced it down to the brake light switch. The connector was corroded and I think it shorted as a result. I got lucky it was an easy fix. __________________ 62 C/10 SWB. Currently in ground up resto. Big back window cab, V8, auto. My wife's grandfather's truck. 1965 Mustang Vert - Shelby Clone 2005 Dodge SRT-10 My Old 72 SWB

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05-04-2004, 06:12 PM	#2
dtlilly Account Suspended Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Shadow of Lambeau Field Posts: 5,597	Start at the rear unplugging as you go to the front. Keep replacing fuses until you isolate where the bare wire is.

05-04-2004, 06:16 PM	#3
Cat Fuzz My son, my joy. Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 463	Just find the wires at the back and start tracing them forward. Look for bare wires that might be rubbing somewhere. You've got a dead short somewhere in your brake light circuit. Might want to check your bulb sockets too, just in case. The short could also be before the switch, so look there too.

05-05-2004, 05:47 AM	#5
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Turn on your turnsignals, one of them should probably blow the fuse too, and it'll tell you which wire you need to be looking at.



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