2013 Tahoe for towing.

[draino76]

I own a 2013 Tahoe 5.3 6spd with a Black bear tune. I recently bought a 24" travel trailer that weighs in at 5,500 pounds dry with a 900 pound tongue weight. I have an r4 sway/ weight distribution hitch and it seemed to pull well. After about 400 miles I hit some pretty stout hills before the Rocky mountains. Another 100 miles and the rear end began whining. I pulled over and could hear the rear differential fluid boiling. I cooled it down and limped it into a dealership. The gears and oil are shot. The unit has 308s. Is it worth it to install 373s and all the equipment required to keep all the other fluids cool or take the money and upgrade to a newer Duramax? We plan on at least one long distance trip a year 500+ miles and many of them through large hills or mountains. Most of our daily driving has been passed on to the Chevy Volt we recently purchased. All advice is appreciated.

[mongocanfly]

My 13 crew has 3.42s....wish many times it had 3.73s.....it just doesn't like bigger loads.....on the other hand when I had my 99 w/5.3 it had 3.73s and i pulled heavier loads than what youve got and it did it with ease......nothing will outdo a diesel but the much greater cost is hard to justify for only once a yr....you could just rent a diesel when your going on your long trips....

[DieselSJ]

It takes a lot of heat to make oil boil. You sure you don't have something else going on, like exhaust blowing on the housing?

3.42, 3.55, 3.73 will all help with towing. Each will also increase heat in the rear end. With the new gears run a high quality synthetic (NEO, Amsoil, etc...). Aftermarket diff cover with increased capacity will also help.

[draino76]

It's factory exhaust in like new condition. After unhooking the camper the highest temp I saw on the diff was 150 and that was in the mountains, but that was after I put Lucas 80w 140 in it. I ran it about a 900 miles that way so I think the bearings are not the problem. Whines like crazy and there was very easy to see grind marks on the ring and pinion gears.

[DieselSJ]

Originally Posted by draino76

It's factory exhaust in like new condition. After unhooking the camper the highest temp I saw on the diff was 150 and that was in the mountains, but that was after I put Lucas 80w 140 in it. I ran it about a 900 miles that way so I think the bearings are not the problem. Whines like crazy and there was very easy to see grind marks on the ring and pinion gears.

Ditch the Lucas. Mobil1 synthetic will give you better protection than the Lucas. If you got it hot enough to boil the oil then the bearings are all toast too.

[Clyde65]

Go with Amsoil sever gear oil, works like a charm in my customers HD’s

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...e-gear-75w-90/

[95 S_Trucker]

It would have to get to 400+ degrees to boil synthetic gear lube. Every bearing needs replaced. There may be damage to the housing if it got that hot.

If you decide to keep the Tahoe, I would recommend adding the additional transmission cooler and the engine oil cooler. From your first post, it sounds like you don’t have them.

The Tahoe with 3.08 is rated to tow 5200
The Tahoe with 3.42 is rated to tow 5700
The Tahoe with 3.42 and the max trailering package(aux trans/engine oil coolers) is rated to tow 8500.

[draino76]

Lucas was the best I could find where I was. I do prefer amsoil. All good suggestions. Dropped the Tahoe at the dealership tonight. Will see what extend warranty will cover. I'm Glad I have time to weigh my options. The price of new vehicles I may have to add engine and transmission coolers, replace my gears with 342 or 373.

[Clyde65]

Amsoil will ship to your door. Where in SD are you??


See Ches.

4610 W 12th street Souix Falls SD
605-274-2580

Tell him John sent you

[Ski-me]

Originally Posted by 95 S_Trucker

It would have to get to 400+ degrees to boil synthetic gear lube. Every bearing needs replaced. There may be damage to the housing if it got that hot.

If you decide to keep the Tahoe, I would recommend adding the additional transmission cooler and the engine oil cooler. From your first post, it sounds like you don’t have them.

The Tahoe with 3.08 is rated to tow 5200
The Tahoe with 3.42 is rated to tow 5700
The Tahoe with 3.42 and the max trailering package(aux trans/engine oil coolers) is rated to tow 8500.

I was also wondering if 3.73 is even available in this year. I thought they don't even offer that gear ratio anymore due to the 6 speed tranny. 3.42 was the lowest I thought was offered by the factory.

[mongocanfly]

When i bought my 13 w/5.3 and found it came with 3.42s,I asked about getting 3.73s....they told me the 6.0 trucks came with those and i would have to go with a 6.0 to get 3.73s

[95 S_Trucker]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

When i bought my 13 w/5.3 and found it came with 3.42s,I asked about getting 3.73s....they told me the 6.0 trucks came with those and i would have to go with a 6.0 to get 3.73s

The only way you could get a 6.0 in a 07-13 Tahoe was in a hybrid. Other than that it was 5.3 or 6.2.

[mongocanfly]

mine was a crew z71...just going on what they told me

[95 S_Trucker]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

mine was a crew z71...just going on what they told me

The 1500 trucks were available with the 6.0 between 07 and 09. They were marketed as "vortec max"

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by DieselSJ

Ditch the Lucas. Mobil1 synthetic will give you better protection than the Lucas. If you got it hot enough to boil the oil then the bearings are all toast too.

X2 on the Lucas, it has no anti-foaming agents and will turn a gear box into a frothing mess.

[draino76]

Got it back from the dealership last night. Warranty covered all repairs. Even replaced the right front hub as they thought it had some play in it. Cost to me $0.00. the Tahoe won't be worth much in a couple years. Wife doesn't want to stick a ton of money into it to make it a tow vehicle. Not often the wife encourages me to buy a new vehicle, might have to take advantage of the situation. Anybody want to buy a damn nice Tahoe with a lot of new parts that doesn't tow anything heavy? Lol

[RustyBucket]

Surprising to me that the differential going bad would be the drive train's weak link that would fail first. I would've thought the transmission or engine temperature would max out and one of those components would crap out. While it's still under warranty I think I'd try it again. You might find that the rear end was faulty from the factory and the additional load from the trailer wiped it out.
I'm a Florida flat-lander but I've towed a lot of stuff that exceeded the tow capacity of some of my puny tow vehicles. Overheating, transmission trouble, but never had differential trouble.

[cadillac_al]

I am also surprised the rear axle was the weak link. I also think it must have been defective.

[draino76]

I've done some lite towing with it in the past and it had 75000 miles on it. I have a hard time believing it was defective but I guess anything is possible. The wife and I decided sitting along the highway in the middle of nowhere with two kids wasn't worth the risk. We traded the Tahoe for a 2016 2500hd Duramax. Mileage empty was almost identical. With the trailer it was 4mpg better and diesel is cheaper than the premium required while towing with the tune. Not to mention all the other benefits.

[mongocanfly]

That swap should do it.......

[weq92f]

Just for sheets and giggles:

2010 USA Standard Gear, New Gear Break-In:

All new gear sets require a break-in preiod to prevent overheating damage. Any over-loading or overheating will break down the gear oil, which will cause the ring and pinion to fail., This can be determined by inspection and will void the gears' warranty.

Please follow these guidelines to insure proper break-in.

o Avoid heavy acceleration during the break-in process.
o Drive the vehicle lightly for the first 15 to 20 miles and stop. Let the differential cool before proceeding.
o Avoid heavy acceleration for the first 100 miles.
o Drive the vehicle at least 500 miles before towing to retain the gears' warranty.
o When towing for the first time, drive for very short distances -less than 15 miles - with the full load and stop. Let the differential cool for about 20 minutes before proceeding. Repeat this procedure two more times -45 miles total - to fully break in the gears.
o Change the oil after the first 500 miles. This will remove any metal particles and phosphoric coating shed by the gear set during the gears' break-in period.
...

Right.... right... This is mostly lawyer talk.

-klb

[Captainfab]

You're lucky. Around here Diesel is $0.90-$1.00 more than 87 octane.

Originally Posted by draino76

I've done some lite towing with it in the past and it had 75000 miles on it. I have a hard time believing it was defective but I guess anything is possible. The wife and I decided sitting along the highway in the middle of nowhere with two kids wasn't worth the risk. We traded the Tahoe for a 2016 2500hd Duramax. Mileage empty was almost identical. With the trailer it was 4mpg better and diesel is cheaper than the premium required while towing with the tune. Not to mention all the other benefits.

[draino76]

Originally Posted by weq92f

Just for sheets and giggles:

2010 USA Standard Gear, New Gear Break-In:

All new gear sets require a break-in preiod to prevent overheating damage. Any over-loading or overheating will break down the gear oil, which will cause the ring and pinion to fail., This can be determined by inspection and will void the gears' warranty.

Please follow these guidelines to insure proper break-in.

o Avoid heavy acceleration during the break-in process.
o Drive the vehicle lightly for the first 15 to 20 miles and stop. Let the differential cool before proceeding.
o Avoid heavy acceleration for the first 100 miles.
o Drive the vehicle at least 500 miles before towing to retain the gears' warranty.
o When towing for the first time, drive for very short distances -less than 15 miles - with the full load and stop. Let the differential cool for about 20 minutes before proceeding. Repeat this procedure two more times -45 miles total - to fully break in the gears.
o Change the oil after the first 500 miles. This will remove any metal particles and phosphoric coating shed by the gear set during the gears' break-in period.
...

Right.... right... This is mostly lawyer talk.

-klb

Sounds like it. I wonder if anyone has ever done that lol.

[weq92f]

Originally Posted by draino76

Sounds like it. I wonder if anyone has ever done that lol.

Doubt it. Imagine how many new rigs go directly from the the dealership lot to work hauling loads, even big loads.

Most folk don't even think about the gears back there.

-klb

[Alex V.]

FWIW, that shouldn't have happened. Something wrong with the rear end, worn out gear oil... but as others have said that's just strange. Amsoil severe gear is very good stuff - I have it in the diffs of all my stuff, and use their synchromesh in my Cruze's manual trans. But no matter, sounds like you got a good trade up!