C10 almost roadworthy during the day and night.

[S_Gibson]

Originally Posted by FL71C10

I had the same problem with my parking brake lever. I posted something on here and somebody replied with a picture of one with a new spring. I just went to the hardware store and found a spring that worked. I did buy a couple of springs beforr i got tge right one. My parking brake pedal assembly was already out of the truck so it was easier for me,

Thanks, that is what I will do then. Guess I'll measure the length required and visit the Ace Hardware in K-Vegas and see what they have. I don't think it should require a spring with much tension.

[S_Gibson]

The spring I need will be about 5 1/2" long. Handle is easy enough to pull so very little tension will be require.

Regarding the rear brakes sticking. I jacked the truck up and both back wheel seemed to move fairly easy. I took the wheels and drum off and while the brakes and components show age everything is intact and setup correctly. The shoes and drums are adequate also.

I then pressed on the parking brake and it held both wheels firmly. When I released the parking brakes I can easily rotate the drums. It appears the new intermediate cable did the trick and everything else with the parking brake is working as it should.

Trouble starts when I press the brake pedal and released it. At this point neither wheel had any movement. Shortly after the wheels freed up again, but not immediately when release the pedal. When I press the brake and release the brakes wouldn't release enough for me to rotate the wheel for about 30 seconds or so.

Is it safe to consider it might be the rear brake hose? What else should I consider?

[S_Gibson]

Replacing the rear brake hose turned into quite the undertaking. The splitter connection on the rear end came loose easily but the hard line on the other end snapped even easier. I didn't stand a chance.

As I figured the hose was quite swollen and it was difficult to blow air through it. I imagine the fluid was having major trouble. I was going to replace that section of hard line that broke, but someone had used a compression fitting at the next next connection along the frame. I was always told compression fitting were a big No-No for brakes.

Anyway ordered a roll of 3/16 Copper-Nickel line and considering how rusted the lines I seen so far are I'll start replacing them. I went ahead and drained every drop of fluid I could get out of the brake system. The fluid was pretty nasty.

A simple task made difficult thanks to rust, but I'd rather do it correctly so it will be a dependable ride.

I know what I'll be doing this weekend if the rain holds out.

Ace Hardware had a 5" spring that worked out great for the parking brake release handle.

For those that have replaced their rear brake lines. Did you split it on the frame similar to how it was originally split, or did you run a single line?

[panhead59]

I had same problem. I keep following line up frame to junction close to starter before a fitting came apart somewhat easily. Just went to auto zone and bought pre-made brake lines. If you've got all old fluid out you could replace with dot 5 brake fluid. It's not corrosive like dot 3.

[S_Gibson]

Did I mess up?

I'm sure many on here know what brake line sizes were used on these trucks. I purchased a roll of 3/16" lines, new unions and fittings since the previous owner had patched and repaired all the lines using compression fittings. I've always been told that is a big no-no. I ran the new lines from the proportioning valve to the rear center brake hose.

It was then realized the old lines I tore off were 1/4". I guess I assumed an old manual drum brake system would be 3/16". It appears the lines on the axle though are in fact 3/16 although I haven't replaced them YET. May do that tomorrow

What was standard on these trucks? Is there any issue with 3/16" lines? Did I mess up?

I was also going to go ahead and replace the front lines and hoses in the near future. I think brakes are the most important system in an automobile and would feel much more comfortable knowing they were done right on this truck (and obviously the previous owner rigged and patched everything incorrectly). Should I go ahead an use the 3/16" line I now have plenty of?

If it matters I have no desire of swapping to disc brakes, at least not anytime soon. I've never found anything wrong with drum brakes if they are maintained properly.

Just a comment on the copper/nickel line I ordered. It was a breeze cut double flare and BEND. I used a cheap Harbor Freight double flare tool and tomorrow when I get fluid in the lines and bleed them I'll find out if they all hold up. If that isn't an issue I'll definitely use copper instead of steel on any of my cars that need it. No tools required to bend it. I will have to tie it off to the frame better as the previous owner didn't believe in reusing clips, but liked zip ties. The copper is not near as rigid as steel.

Thanks in advance for any assistance and comments.