5.3L DBW cruise hookup

[iregalado]

what exactly do i need for the cruise control to work on my truck iv looked all over but haven been able to get clarification for this set up, i have a 2000 5.3 4l60e dbc. in a 1970 c10. i understand the dbw is easy to set up but i dont think i understand the dbc setup. clarification please or maybe and exact example to i can understand a little better thanks and sorry for the interuption. GREAT FORUM btw i cant go to sleep unless ive been on here for a couple hours looking at everyones set up and ideas.

[ls1nova71]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=511477 This should help

[68c10airstream]

Hi iregalado, Drive by cable is the stock set up for your 2000 5.3. I did this install in my 2001 5.3 in my 68 c10. As long as you are sure your engine originally came with a cable operated throttle body this is what you need. 88-93ish full size gm truck cruise box with cable and the pigtail that plugged into the cruise box. You will be making your own harness (it's easy). From my memory here we go, cruise box harness plug in will contain at least these circuits. A 12 volt + from ignition switch (key on), A ground, A 12 volt+ from the cruise switch, A 12 volt+ from the set position, A 12volt + from resume, A vss (vehicle speed signal) from the ecm. On my install i used the oem early 70 ish cruise/turn signal lever that only has set position. I mention this because i had trouble getting my cruise to engage. Here was the problem, my old style switch had dirty contacts and didn't sent out a clean full voltage signal to the cruise box, and after some work i finally found out that the cruise box compares the 12 volt + from ignition and the 12 volt + from the cruise switch and the two circuits must be with in 1/2 volt of each other. I ended up wiring in a relay that was switched from the cruise switch so it sent out a full voltage signal to the cruise box and all was good. Stay away from about a 1995 and newer cruise box as they require additional wires. Check with ls1nova for cruise switch help as he most likely will have what you need. He's super helpful! You will need a brake switch for a cruise application (readily available). This switch works opposite of the brake light switch. This cruise brake switch opens the circuit when you step on the brake. If a person wanted to you could do cruise with the stock brake switch and a relay, you wouldn't have to have a separate cruise brake switch. Relay wiring would be this, terminal #30 on relay= 12 volt+ from ignition switch (fused), terminal# 85 to ground, terminal #86 from the cold side of the brake switch (this is the side of the brake switch that the tail lights are on, cold when your foot is off the brakes, hot when you are stepping on the brakes), terminal 87A to cruise box input. Drive by wire would require a TAC module, and different throttle body at least and i don't know about ecm requirements. Good luck, brian fuller

[iregalado]

thank you lsnova71 and 68c10airstream thats exactly what i was looking for, i did my own harness on my 5.3 swap so im sure i can do this. you guys and this forum have been a big help i would love to post my build but unfortunate my phone go stolen so i was never able to upload any pictures and i know a build tread ain't much without any pictures but once again thank you all for your help.

[BR3W CITY]

Want to verify something before I hook up cruise on mine this weekend. I"ll be using just switches, not a stalk.

For a simple switch setup, I gather that;

1. I run a switched and fuse +12v to a toggle switch, by default, getting 0 voltage in the OFF position. After that switch, I connect to pin 14 on the TAC module.

2. Off the same circuit I just made, I need to tap the 12v AFTER the switch, and run that to the Input side of a momentary switch (open, no voltage until depressed). From the Output side of the momentary, to pin 4 on the TAC.

3. I won't be adding an accell/resume so i can disregard that.

4. I need to hook a wire from the Brake switch to Pin 6 on the TAC.


Thats all correct...right?

So tell me this; I'm already using a 4 post switch for the ls swap, and all 4 already have wires on them. WHICH wire do I need to run to the TAC? The n/o vs n/c confuses me; is the 4post fine, or do I need to add a relay like the above stalk kits?

IF yall could break down that little part for me I'd appreciate it....
I wanna use the old High beam foot button for the cruise switch, and a simply momentary on my switch panel.

[ls1nova71]

BR3W, you have it right, and your brake switch will be fine, and no extra relays are needed. Just hook the wire to pin 6 on the TAC from the "hot when applied" side of the brake switch. The other side is for the TCC and you already have that hooked up so you're good there. The only problem you may encounter is if you have LED brake lights.

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

BR3W, you have it right, and your brake switch will be fine, and no extra relays are needed. Just hook the wire to pin 6 on the TAC from the "hot when applied" side of the brake switch. The other side is for the TCC and you already have that hooked up so you're good there. The only problem you may encounter is if you have LED brake lights.

Thanks dude. I do have the LED' tails, but they are the "bulb" type that have the resistors in them to operate flashers, I might be able to get away with it. If not, I'll stick a dummy bulb somewhere, unless there is more elegant solution.

[solidaxel]

Do you have a wire diagram for the Dakota Digital surface mount 4 bottom switch HND2?

[cru_zn_29]

Great thread

[MattPSU]

I just picked up this switch from Amazon. Can I wire this up the same as the DD one's in the original post?

https://www.amazon.com/Rostra-GM-Sty.../dp/B008LUTF0C

Thanks - Matt

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by MattPSU

I just picked up this switch from Amazon. Can I wire this up the same as the DD one's in the original post?

https://www.amazon.com/Rostra-GM-Sty.../dp/B008LUTF0C

Thanks - Matt

Yes, its the same switch. I'm pretty sure they're made by the same company.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by MattPSU

I just picked up this switch from Amazon. Can I wire this up the same as the DD one's in the original post?

https://www.amazon.com/Rostra-GM-Sty.../dp/B008LUTF0C

Thanks - Matt

Yes

[cru_zn_29]

I am wanting to install cruise to my gen IV 5.3 4l80e. When reading info about the gen IV system gets confusing.What would better the way to go. Rostra or BCM.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by cru_zn_29

I am wanting to install cruise to my gen IV 5.3 4l80e. When reading info about the gen IV system gets confusing.What would better the way to go. Rostra or BCM.

Rostra or Dakota Digital would probably be simpler than BCM...

[MattPSU]

So am I wiring it so that the switch connects to this plug? Or am I splicing into the wire between this plug and the ECU?

[ls1nova71]

There should be three wires coming from that plug that go to the switch.

[MattPSU]

I'm finally back on this. I've had it all wired up for months, and just left the fuse out because I wanted to test it somewhere safe first. Well I finally did that tonight, and it's working. Kind of.

It only holds the speed when the switch is on and I hold in the SET/CRUISE button. Any idea what I did wrong? I'm assuming that I have something backwards, but it's been so long since I wired it all up, I can't remember the details enough to trouble shoot it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks - Matt

[ls1nova71]

To use the switch that you have, you need to use relays to reverse the normally closed switches to normally open. Did you wire it that way?

[MattPSU]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

To use the switch that you have, you need to use relays to reverse the normally closed switches to normally open. Did you wire it that way?

I did. I used two relays and wired them just as you guys suggested. Any idea which one I need to check? Or which wire coming out of the switch is related to that button?

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by MattPSU

I did. I used two relays and wired them just as you guys suggested. Any idea which one I need to check? Or which wire coming out of the switch is related to that button?

I honestly don't know, on aftermarket switches its a crap shoot as to which wire does what. You will have to get out a multimeter or test light and test them to find out for sure.

[GMC Guy]

Originally Posted by jks67ss396

Bump for wiring clarification:

i finally found a 4 wire cruise lever that wasnt beat to hell and back. its from a 74 van. definitely factory looking. could be aftermarket, but it was ran inside the factory column, under the factory cover, under the factory wiring.

wires are red, green brown and yellow

after pulling the assembly apart, i ohmed everything out

red goes to the middle connector/appears to be 12V power

brown tied to red when slider is on/appears to be cruise on/off

green is the set speed push button. tied to red when slider is on, but not when speed button is pushed, ie normally closed/connected to 12V

yellow is only tied to red when slid to resume

unlike ackattack (post 8, when pushing the set speed/green wire, there is no contact with the yellow wire. obviously, when i do slide to resume, there is continuity between yellow and green because green is normally connected to red when cruise is on, and sliding to resume, contacts yellow to red, so by default, yellow and green are connected "through" the red wire, but thats not the same functionality as ackattack.


Since the LS DBW requires "set speed" pushbutton to be normally open, momentary close I too will use relay to invert the set speed functionality, but i believe the resume function is fine, so ill only use 1 relay.

some background for others wondering:
I wire relays a little different than Ackattack
I use pin 30 as relay "signal" power
i use 85 as relay control positive
i use 86 as relay control ground
87a would be normally closed (when relay is off, 87a and 30 are connected).
87 is only connected to 30 when the relay is energized.


So when relay is powered on (brown/cruise "on" wire will provide input power to relay... pin 30...only powered when cruise is on), the green set button (connected to relay 85, again only powered when cruise is on), will keep relay energized and the output set to 87 (which is connected to nothing) and only when green set button is pressed and the relay is de-energized, will the relay go back to pin 87a, and the path from 30 to 87a will be complete, sending 12V pulse to the set wire on the tac module

again, my cruise lever looks factory. id really like to know if GM ever used this "normally closed" set speed functionality or if its always been like ls1nova says

seems like others have found these same style levers, but i never saw their resolution...

i think this should work. let me know if there are any flaws in my thinking

thanks guys

Did this method end up working? I can't get Resume to work using the 2 relay system