Small Block starter motors

[Quikshft]

Is there any reason you wouldn't use a '71 vintage starter motor on an L31 engine? The parts store price for a later model starter is quite a bit more than for a '71 350.

[toolboxchev]

I do believe you have to go with the starter for the L31 due to the flywheel have different amount of teeth.

Someone will chime in and let us know for sure.

[Redneck Rydes]

I run a new GM gear reduction starter from the HI PO book,the advantives of this starter is clearance,no eat soak and will spin engine over faster.

[MARKDTN]

The late gear reduction starters are so much more reliable. Worth the extra.

[54blackhornet]

I installed a gr starter last summer on my 350. Less than $100.00. Easy install, spins engine over super fast but sounds terrible doing it.

[Mike C]

Mostly because the early starters suck in comparison. You can get a late model style starter on Amazon for around $60 delivered. And they are well worth it. I don't waste my time with the old style starters at all. If it ever gives me an issue, in the recycling it goes to be replaced with one of the permanent magnet gear reduction late style starters.

You can get either early starters or new gear reduction starters that fit either flywheel tooth count. And you can get either size flywheel for both motors. Just make sure you know what you have and order your parts.

[Quikshft]

Thanks all, I think I'll spring for one of the new style units.

[burnin oil]

Everyone is correct on this. The only issue would be if you are running a factory bellhousing and need the 3 bolt starter that bolts to it instead of the block. Then you are stuck with old school. I used to switch the nose cones out on the old style since the starter motors were the same but the price tag sure wasn't. I dont think that you can get away doing this to a gear reduction starter.

[Steeveedee]

The issue with the old starter motors is that they are shunt wound, so the more that is required from them, the more current they draw. The newer starters have extremely strong permanent magnets instead of current-fed field windings that don't require battery power for them to spin. This means that they will usually start your old truck when the starter motor from the factory had to send a ton of current through the field windings to get the rotor to spin.

tl:dr version- the newer permanent magnet starter motors will start your truck in some really bad environmental conditions.

[KQQL IT]

ACDelco 337-1022 Professional Starter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007QBT0WA..._tkKyCb2QHEGJ4


Have this one on 3 of my 4 junks in the driveway. However they do require different bolts.

I believe these ARP 430-3502

[Sheepdip]

Originally Posted by burnin oil

Everyone is correct on this. The only issue would be if you are running a factory bellhousing and need the 3 bolt starter that bolts to it instead of the block. Then you are stuck with old school. I used to switch the nose cones out on the old style since the starter motors were the same but the price tag sure wasn't. I dont think that you can get away doing this to a gear reduction starter.

Just wondering if anyone has tried one of these Power Master's?...and if they are really any better than a run of the mill full size style.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/-Powe...er,334624.html

[Mike C]

Originally Posted by burnin oil

Everyone is correct on this. The only issue would be if you are running a factory bellhousing and need the 3 bolt starter that bolts to it instead of the block. Then you are stuck with old school. I used to switch the nose cones out on the old style since the starter motors were the same but the price tag sure wasn't. I dont think that you can get away doing this to a gear reduction starter.

The secret is to run an Hitachi style starter that doesn’t have the supported starter drive. This is the Tilton starter you originally saw on race cars. Since the nose doesn’t actually go in the bellhousing there is no interference. I have been running a CVR starter like that on my 4 speed Jimmy for 15 years now.

[Benjamin]

Originally Posted by Mike C

The secret is to run an Hitachi style starter that doesn’t have the supported starter drive. This is the Tilton starter you originally saw on race cars. Since the nose doesn’t actually go in the bellhousing there is no interference. I have been running a CVR starter like that on my 4 speed Jimmy for 15 years now.

Interested in your setup, I have a 72 K10 with a 4 speed. Do you have a thread on it?

[Sheepdip]

Originally Posted by Mike C

The secret is to run an Hitachi style starter that doesn’t have the supported starter drive. This is the Tilton starter you originally saw on race cars. Since the nose doesn’t actually go in the bellhousing there is no interference. I have been running a CVR starter like that on my 4 speed Jimmy for 15 years now.

Got a link/pic or part number?

[Mike C]

Sorry about the size of the pic, but that's what Summit has it at. I don't recall making a thread about the starter? It's been on the truck awhile. Here is what I am talking about:

https://www.summitracing.com/search/...e/mini-hitachi

[weim55]

When I swapped from the original 327 engine to the L 31 I reused the original '65 old-style starter. Both the original 327 and the L 31 had 168 tooth flywheels. The old-style starter bolted on no issues and works great.

Steve weim55 Colorado