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05-23-2004, 09:28 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Sugar Land, TX
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how to get off control arm bolt
Any help on how to get the lower control arm bolt off?? I've wd-40'd it and have a 1/2" breaker bar, but that's not enough. I can't get an impact wrench on it b/c of the exhaust is in the way.
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05-24-2004, 11:17 AM | #2 |
just can't cover up my redneck
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Location: Columbus OH
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Do you have a way to heat it? Even a propane torch may be enough.
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05-24-2004, 11:37 AM | #3 |
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Longer breaker bar. Heat it & then put a 2-3ft. piece of pipe over your breaker bar. The longer the pipe, the more leverage you have.
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05-24-2004, 10:25 PM | #4 |
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I used a big pipe wrench and a 4 foot breaker bar with me jumping on the end of it.
Took some work, but i'd have to say getting the new ones on was even more of a chore. LOTS to look forward too
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Brian Pal 1971 Cheyenne 10 454/th400-Undergoing a full frame off resto. 1972 Chevy short/step 2wd, 350/th350 1983 M1009 CUCV Military K5 Blazer 1981 Dodge 1 ton 4x4 dually flatbed |
05-25-2004, 03:00 AM | #5 |
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Get some penetrating blaster and it will stomp a muddhole where wd40 wont phase it Heat it up with a torch and hit it with some wax that often does the trick on unbearable stuck bolts.
what i always did is put a backer wrench on it and a breaker bar and long pipe if just the breaker wouldnt do the trick, Your not going to break that bolt. So give it hell |
05-25-2004, 10:08 AM | #6 |
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just get in there with a small cutoff wheel cut the sucker off and it's good to go . you're not planning on reusing the u-bolts that hold the control arm in place are you??
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71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY |
05-25-2004, 12:04 PM | #7 |
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If he's thinking of the same bolt I am, you really don't want to use a cut-off wheel. Are you thinking of the 4 u-bolts that hold the lower control arom on or the 1 3/8 or 1 5/8 inch nuts that hold in the lower and upper control arm shaft?
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Brian Pal 1971 Cheyenne 10 454/th400-Undergoing a full frame off resto. 1972 Chevy short/step 2wd, 350/th350 1983 M1009 CUCV Military K5 Blazer 1981 Dodge 1 ton 4x4 dually flatbed |
05-25-2004, 12:18 PM | #8 |
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i was thinking of the u-bolts that mount the control arm to the frame,and i've seen more than 1post from members that have had used ones fail that's why i suggest getting new ones
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71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY |
05-25-2004, 09:55 PM | #9 |
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oh, yes you are right then, There is absolutely no reason to reuse those bolts over again, they are cheap!
I was thinking of these nuts (the ones painted silver/gray)
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Brian Pal 1971 Cheyenne 10 454/th400-Undergoing a full frame off resto. 1972 Chevy short/step 2wd, 350/th350 1983 M1009 CUCV Military K5 Blazer 1981 Dodge 1 ton 4x4 dually flatbed |
05-26-2004, 05:28 AM | #10 |
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use PB blaster spray. I soaked mine for a few hours and the loosened up with breaker bar. Have you already seperated the lower control arm from the spindle?
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05-26-2004, 11:26 PM | #11 |
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thanks for all the help!!
I was talking about the 1 1/8" bolts, not the u-bolts. I used a 4' pipe over the breaker bar and was able to break them loose. |
05-27-2004, 10:51 AM | #12 |
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Location: Long Beach, Ca
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Those are the A-arm shaft caps. There on with about 250 ftlbs. The shaft kits from Moog are about $50. You can get rebiulds for about a $100. As for the caps, set the truck on a jack stand and use a 4 ft breaker bar. When there loose you can pull the a-arms off and replace the shafts and caps.
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