Ever see inside a double wall top?

[Jeff1971]

I’m splitting mine open in order to do a repair and restore. It took a lot of time but I have half of the outer shell off. I’ll try to update this as I progress.









Jeff

[mister.freeze]

Very curious indeed!

[lks dcvn]

Nope - keep the pics coming though!

[Thealien]

I am interested also. I am in the market for a mint 2 wheel drive and want to put on a soft top without drilling the windshield frame. I have an old top from my last Jimmy I could cut up and use that as an attachment point, maybe?

[tristan]

(Jeff Spicoli voice) Gnarly!

[Jeff1971]

Originally Posted by Thealien

I am interested also. I am in the market for a mint 2 wheel drive and want to put on a soft top without drilling the windshield frame. I have an old top from my last Jimmy I could cut up and use that as an attachment point, maybe?

The front edge of the top is a hollow shell and would need to be reinforced to hold the soft top. When i get back to it I'll show you a picture.

Jeff

[Jeff1971]

This is the front edge.



Pretty thin . You may use it as a pattern or reinforce it?

Jeff

[1972 Jimmy]

Awsome pics! Got a couple questions for you. Were you able to remove the whole outer shell in one piece? if so how did you separate it around the windows? Also can you take a couple of pictures of the inner channel where the top mounts to the bedsides. curious on how the nuts are fastened to the inner channel.
Thanks eric

[Jeff1971]

Originally Posted by 1972 Jimmy

Awsome pics! Got a couple questions for you. Were you able to remove the whole outer shell in one piece? if so how did you separate it around the windows? Also can you take a couple of pictures of the inner channel where the top mounts to the bedsides. curious on how the nuts are fastened to the inner channel.
Thanks eric

The outer shell has to come off one side at a time. There is a center fiberglass channel that provides much of the support front to rear. This is why when a sunroof is added a lot of the strength is lost. I only have one side off so far. I’m going to develop my methods on the first half first then adapt what works to the second half. As far as separating the seam around the window, I just used a sharp and stiff putty knife and a rubber mallet to slowly open the seam.

Here is the mounting block inside the frame below the window.

.

It’s just riveted to the lower frame by 2 aluminum rivets. I’m going to remove mine and clean them all up. It’s really easy to just rivet them back on once they are done.
It would be very cool to replace all of those individual blocks with one continuous strip. It would work on all of the except the one in the very back. It’s integrated into the rear metal support frame that surrounds the hatch opening.

Jeff

[Jeff1971]

That’s a rotten picture. I’ll try again.

[Jeff1971]

Hope these show it better. I’ll also put in the pics of the rear frame. I’m pointing at a crack in the frame that I’m sure is in many tops.

[Jesse B.]

Jeff, thank you so much for posting these pictures. I have a double wall I am considering repairing the sag in and I have wondered if the outer top of the very top (the part that sags) is attached at all to the supporting ribs below it. From your post above, it sounds like it may be attached to the center rib that runs from front to back, but not the ones that run side to side? Is this correct? If not, do you think it is possible to cut the entire outer top of the top 360* around and then lifting it off? Thanks.

[Jeff1971]

Jesse, The outer skin is attached to the ribs. you would only be able to get it off in sections. If you do it like that, don't cut right next to the rib. You need to give yourself a gluing surface to put the upper panel back down.

When you put it back together be sure to use a good quality epoxy. Anything you repair on these tops needs epoxy in order to bond well or be structurally sound. If you use the bondo-glass or regular glue it will fail. I have had good luck with the West Systems 105 products. There are also a couple of sailboat epoxies that work well.

[Jesse B.]

Originally Posted by Jeff1971

Jesse, The outer skin is attached to the ribs. you would only be able to get it off in sections. If you do it like that, don't cut right next to the rib. You need to give yourself a gluing surface to put the upper panel back down.

When you put it back together be sure to use a good quality epoxy. Anything you repair on these tops needs epoxy in order to bond well or be structurally sound. If you use the bondo-glass or regular glue it will fail. I have had good luck with the West Systems 105 products. There are also a couple of sailboat epoxies that work well.

Jeff, you were at least able to get it off the ribs that run side to side. How did you get your top of those ribs? One section at a time and then hammer and chisel?

[Jeff1971]

After I slit the edges and slowly lifted the outer skin up, I used a thin strip of stainless sheet about 40" long with a beveled edge to get the outer skin loose from the ribs. Rubber mallet and lots of patience.

If all I was fixing were the sags I would not have split it all the way open. Mine has multiple issues and was also full of yellow jacket nests. There were also a few live yellow jackets!

Jeff

[cleszkie]

I applaud your skill and effort in rehabbing your double wall top. The final product will definitely be top shelf. Not to throw shade on your project, but why not search out a single wall top to rehab instead of a double wall? The single walls have so many design improvements over the doubles and are generally much better made from the start. Again, no disrespect to your project. I'm just curious.

[Jeff1971]

Originally Posted by cleszkie

I applaud your skill and effort in rehabbing your double wall top. The final product will definitely be top shelf. Not to throw shade on your project, but why not search out a single wall top to rehab instead of a double wall? The single walls have so many design improvements over the doubles and are generally much better made from the start. Again, no disrespect to your project. I'm just curious.

I'm cheap and compulsive.

I'd love to get a single wall, just haven't had the opportunity.

Jeff

[A1971Blazer]

Do you plan on adding in some extra bracing when you reassemble it?
I thought about doing something similar but short of splitting the entire top....
perhaps just cut off the top section(s) and reinforce with extra braces in the sagging areas

[Jeff1971]

My thought was to use sheet foam insulation inside. The rigid pink stuff.

Jeff

[A1971Blazer]

Originally Posted by Jeff1971

My thought was to use sheet foam insulation inside. The rigid pink stuff.

Jeff

I was thinking along the same line. I've been researching and experimenting with different types of epoxy adhesives and also various types of structural foam,
trying to figure out the best way to make a long lasting repair.

I've spoken with the people at FibreGlast.com on a couple of occasions. They offered some good insight on the materials they sell.

My ultimate goal would be to build a complete top out of carbon fiber but I just can't justify the time and expense to do it.
It looks like you're on the right track and I commend you for tackling the job and sharing your experience....
best of luck with it and keep those updates coming !

[cleszkie]

Originally Posted by cleszkie

I applaud your skill and effort in rehabbing your double wall top. The final product will definitely be top shelf. Not to throw shade on your project, but why not search out a single wall top to rehab instead of a double wall? The single walls have so many design improvements over the doubles and are generally much better made from the start. Again, no disrespect to your project. I'm just curious.

Originally Posted by Jeff1971

I'm cheap and compulsive.

I'd love to get a single wall, just haven't had the opportunity.

Jeff

I can respect and relate to your response! Great work so far on the rehab. A lot of people will learn a lot about these tops from your posts here.