Rocker panel design upgrades for rust prevention?

[brad2597]

I was looking at all the rust issues and no one seems to have developed anything to solve the problem of how it rusts in the first place. Has there been someone that I missed that has solved this problem? Is there a way to improve drainage form stock? Like making a single rocker panel instead of having an inner and outer? Let me know what you guys think.

[cornerstone]

My suspicion as to why the factory design rusts out is just from windows left open over years of use, poor door seals and the complete lack of metal protection inside the rocker. The way I see it there are two ways to prevent it from happening again after repaired. Good door and window seals and treat the inside of the rockers with a protective rust inhibitor, like a quality paint.

Almost forgot....

[Eddie H.]

When installing new rockers, it is a good idea to coat the inside with weld through primer, and drill a couple of drain holes in the bottom.

[AussieinNC]

When I do the cabs, its usually a full floor piece plus new outer rockers...

I always do the following:

Multiple heavy coats of bed treatment go on the inside areas of the rocker sections allowing the coats to totally dry before re coating at least three times.

I crimp extra depressions into the lower edge to allow for improved drainage of water

I then drill 5/16" holes thru the outer rocker lower flange and plug weld the outer rockers to the floor section....I keep an air hose close by to cool each plug and blow out the inevitable instances where the bed paint may ignite....

Once the floor and outer rockers are fully installed, I then use a spray wand to get inside each rocker area and dump in more bed liner....use ice cream sticks pushed up into the drainage crimp areas to keep them clear....I plug the small access hole in the front section of the rocker with a small plastic plug.

Once the cab has been finish welded I then use sealer putty over all seams, both inside and out, leaving it a few days to dry fully.Then more bed liner goes on....especially inside the cab mount channels...remember to keep the drain crimps open with ice cream sticks....

Yes it takes time... but its worth the effort....

One warning....NEVER fill the void in the outer rocker to floor panel with expanding foam!!!! It is a sure way to cause the floor and rocker to rust out real quick....

Hope this helps

[rs74]

My paint guy suggested this to use. I haven't got far enough on mine to do that yet. https://www.semproducts.com/product/...roduct-details

[brad2597]

All good suggestions. I'll try to include all of them when the time comes. I think the weatherproofing seems to be the highest one on my list (making sure there aren't any leaks).

[AussieinNC]

Start at the top of the roof line, especially the drip rails....
then check the windshield seams...remove the windshield!!!! you will be shocked!!!!
then the plenum across the firewall, especially the lower areas where leaves and debris collect
then check door seals...and door alignment to the cab body lines
then check the fuel filler neck rubber seal
then check the cab support mounts
finally cab corners at rear and front support pillars

All these areas are prone to let water into the cab or to store water logged debris....

Have fun !!!

[palallin]

At one point (at least), it was suggested somewhere on the forum to design a removable piece that just snaps in place. Buy a new one every year and just snap it in place of the previous one.

[72 tigger]

Has anyone used panel adhesive to bond the inner and outer? Seems like you could coat the inside and not worry about burning it while welding

[webfoot]

I coated the inside of the one I did with epoxy primer.

[AussieinNC]

Originally Posted by 72 tigger

Has anyone used panel adhesive to bond the inner and outer? Seems like you could coat the inside and not worry about burning it while welding

Old man here....panel adhesive has its place in certain non structural areas, but these outer rockers are actually a stressed component in the cab design...they should be welded in as per factory...

If you have a cab apart with rockers out and a bad floor, especially along the inner rocker down turn area,,,,you will be amazed just how flimsy the structure becomes...add in rotted cab support channels and we can see how bad some cabs can become.

The suggestion to make a "snap in" panel to replace structural areas is a nice April Fools Day gig....

[hooperca]

I did use panel adhesive on my rockers when I put them on about a year ago. The truck still isn't completed yet though so how they hold up in the long run - I don't know. I will say, they are very stout - I hope I never have to take them off!

[B. W.]

I believe the key to rust prevention is to keep the drains clear, not just the bottom drains but the inside drains under the door seals. The inner ones get clogged easily with dirt/debris especially if you work the truck. (which is what we did with these trucks before they were "classics")

If you are replacing the rockers shoot them with epoxy before install & then coat them with cavity wax through the access hole in the front. 3M has a wand kit that allows you to spray all the way to the rear.

If your rockers are OK, I'd still spray cavity wax inside for good measure.

[stsalvage]

Most of the Guys will not admit it But all the Chevy & GMC trucks where Flawed. Most of you will get this Right. When you Pour cement why do you not leave it Flat why do most Cement layers always have it channel the water to one edge. Well, a Floor should be done in the same way. If you look at all of our Chevy trucks they all end up the same way from 1955--99 they all forced the water to the Lower cal Connor. If for some strange reason you put in a creese or a bump in the floor to channel the Dirt and the water to the door an left a small Gap in the Rubber molding so the water could escape you would see a lot less cancer in are trucks I have a Fix for the Fenders too for the 1960--1972 truck fenders

[special-K]

It's the nature of the design and it's all vehicles made since bodies became unified construction after WWII. There are areas of all bodies that are boxed light gauge metal construction... stamped. The salt can get in there as fine as flour dust then it lays in a pocket. There are drain holes in some areas and that helps, but it still lays and dries in the seams and corners. You will never seal the rockers so well nothing can get in there being thrust at it off the front tires every mile the vehicle is driven. Your best bet is more drain holes and larger. Large enough to spray pressure up inside and let drain out. Also could spray inhibitors through these holes. The best thing is keep the vehicle out of the winter salt. You are swimming up river if you expect to expose a vehicle to road corrosives and not get rust. If you want to just drive it and keep on driving as a driver, just look at rust repair as periodic maintenance or just don't worry about it

[Coley]

I'm not a bodyman but I do know what I do with my truck to prevent rust from growing or increasing....and its always yielded very good results.
For the rockers:
-There are (2) small drainage slots (1/8" x 3/4"?) in the bottom that can only be found and seen when you are right under the truck.
I take 'Rust Check' spray and push the little spigot (like a WD40 spigot) up into the inner rocker area and coat the inside of that rocker space....literally soak it with Rust Check, and I do this in all directions through both slots....forward, backwards, left, right, up down...until that stuff starts to drain out of the slots.
-For the roof/windshield area I remove both of the (inner) plastic sun visor support brackets near the mirror. Then, using the same 'Rust Check' method I use those bracket thru holes to complete load up that inner area with rust check...left, right, front, back, etc....

Now, I end up doing a version of this just about everywhere on my truck in early november...front to back, all seams, under the hood, down the cowl vents, battery tray area, rad support connections, trim connection points, in the cab corners, etc, etc, etc.....and definitely targeting the back, underside of the box, where it rests on the last back rail. This area or small 'ledge' collects dirt, sand, mud, water, etc thrown up and back from the tires after years...and then, left unchecked, rusts the back of the box out (near the tailgate) from below.
The whole process probably takes me 1-2 hours and about 3-4 cans of Rust Check....and I'm pretty dirty when I'm done because 50% plus of this process is accomplished on your back underneath your truck....so it isn't for those wanting a 'clean event'...lol. However, it does pay off in spades in my opinion.


Anywhoooo, this has also worked for me to contain or stop rust from growing or going....and it comes from the 'Rust Check' process that is relatively common back in the Canadian rust belt in Ontario.

My two bits...
Coley