Request for Lubrication Recommendations

[sbc350gearhead]

Pont......"myth" is a strong word. What was true 20 years ago, is not necessarily true today. Pennzoil's current formulation, is arguably the best conventional oil on the market. The group II+ basestock used, is the best, most refined basestock used in any conventional oil. The next step up, is group III, which is marketed as a synthetic. Pennzoil also uses a very robust additive package. As I stated previously.......there are no current SL grade oils that will damage your engine, although some (like pennzoil) stand out from the crowd.

[grayw0lf]

Hey SBC350Gearhead,

What do you honestly think of Bob's engine flush & what would be your overall recommendations (anything to choose from) to clean out a sludge filled old engine?

[piecesparts]

Everyone has an idea as to what they like. the Old timers call anything that is not dinosaur blood a "snake oil". There are some really good oils on the market and there are some excellent synthetic oils on the market also. The last guy I talked to mentioned that the synthetics are great, as long as they were changed on as regular a basis as the standard oils are. The set back there is the price, synthetics are pricey. I tend to use a Trop artic oil for my daily drivers, because I used to work for a highway department that had a lot of old trucks and their engines were very clean inside. I had the opportunity to rebuild a few, that had a lot of high mileage on them (250,000 average). The motors were in good shape and did not have a large amount of sludge in them. These trucks were hauling gravel and dirt on a weekly basis, so they were getting a good work out. If the oil is changed regularily, anything will stay clean. The Pennzoil does make a large amount of sludge, as well as a lot of carbon build up in the lifter valley, I have had to remove that before. I have also been using a friction additive to my motors, that I believe (snake oil) is worth the money. It is called "ENERGY RELEASE". It is on the internet under that title. I had a motor with 140,000 miles break a crankshaft, behind the timing chain gear (there was a factory flaw in the metal) and the cylinders showed very little wear or ring edge. A new crank, honed the cylinders, new rings, new pushrods,and bearings the motor was back together and is still running. One other thing the timing chain showed llittle wear as well as the timing chain gears. The friction stuff works.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

I like to run mobil one when I can afford it(not very often) but usally run basic valvoline in everything ....

[sbc350gearhead]

Greywolf........If the engine is highly sludged, then I recommend the 2 application dosage of auto-rx. If it is not so bad, then I recommend schaeffer's nuetra 131, or Lube Control flush. Some of the OTC flushes will harm seals, and the nuetra and LC won't, but they are harsh when compared to auto-rx, and with them, you will run the risk of plugging the oil pickup screen. You will not have that problem with auto-rx, but the auto-rx works very slowly..........it is not a 5 min flush.

Very few additives are worthwhile in an engine. Most simply do nothing. Others can actually cause damage. Many friction reducing additives use chlorinated parrafins to reduce friction. Chlorinated parrafins have been used for years in racing to reduce friction, because in professional racing, the oil is changed every run, or every few runs. Chlorinated parrafins have no place in a street engine, as when they are mixed with motor oil, and heated, they produce hydrochloric acid that will wreak havoc on your engine. If you are going to use an additive, you must understand the chemistry behind it.