opinions

[Psudokiller]

so first off please dont respond with comments like " dont do that just get x engine" or "just take that part off and replace with x, its better"

now that that is out of the way, lets get to it

i am looking for opinions on what kind of numbers i should expect (hp, tq, et?)

the build is as follows (give me a break it was build on 15 an hour in a gravel driveway so its not super impressive)

oh and remember i followed 3 rules while building this truck,
1. stock body/glass/frame
2. gen 1 smallblock
3. street legal

Body:
1970 C10 1/2 ton Long bed, 1967 front clip
lowered 2" front 4" rear
stripped interior, no tailgate or rear bumper, no hood
custom gauges (like it matters)
batter box and 15 gal fuel cell in bed

Suspension
ford 9" big hub, 32 spline axles, 4.10 richmond gears with a 4 pin track lock
triangulated 4 link with comp engineering adjustable coil over kit
15"x10" 5 lug steel wheels with 31x12.5 M/T slicks
one piece steel driveline with premium u joints
stock front suspension with coil overs in place of the shocks and stock coils removed, 5 lug disc brake front knuckles with 15"x8" steel wheels and 245/55/15 goodyears
manual steering, power brakes, boxed frame, 12pt roll cage

Trans:
Th400 rebuilt with alto red eagle clutches, 34 element sprag, new 0mi shafts, drums, gears and valve body with stage 4 shift kit (full manual control)
hurst quarter stick ratchet shifter
3500 stall with anti balloon plate, sfi flex plate, sfi flexplate and trans shield, aftermarket tube brace

Engine:
1970 Camaro Chevy Gen1 smallblock 4 bolt nodular iron 400 crank, machined
4.040 bore, 3.75 stroke, clevitte 77 bearings, windage tray, main stud girdle
melling high volume oil pump, moroso 7qt pan, felpro gasket (the nice blue one)
5.7 eagle forged h beam rods, wiseco forged pistons and rings 4.040, -20cc dish
world products sportsman II iron heads, manley stainless valves 2.02in, 1.65ex, port matched on intake and exhaust, comp cams springs .500, 23deg titanium locks and retainers, comp cams stainless roller rockers 1.55, steel stud girdles, screw in 3/8" studs, fabricated aluminum valve covers
30-30 Duntov mechanical flat cam
254 duration @ .050" (intake & exhaust)
.485" lift (with 1.5 rockers)
114 deg. lobe separation
Exhaust Max lift @ 116 deg. BTDC
Intake Max lift @ 112 deg. ATDC
pete jackson gear drive, moroso electric water pump
Edelbrock super victor air gap single plane intake manifold, Fi Tech GoEfi 1200 Power Adder Fuel injection kit
1/2 in russell braided fuel line and -8an fittings 120psi 500gph fuel pump, return system
Mallory 7 series Ignition box with modified Hei Distributor and Mallory 65000v coil (no module, box does that now) mallory 7 wires, ngk v power copper plugs

Cx racing up-forward turbo headers 1.5" primary 2 1/2 collector, 120deg 2 1/2" elbows T4 flanges, Holset HX40 super turbochargers, 3" exhaust with dynomax race bullets dumping behind front tires
3" intercooler piping with godspeed plate style twin turbo intercooler, cx racing inlet hat
Tial 50mm BOV, cx racing 50mm Wastegate with 1.5" screamer pipe, GFB electronic boost controller
Snow performance water methanol injection, 2 stage
30%-70% Alcohol-110 race gas mix

i might be forgetting something but thats all i can think of at the moment

i am going to be running 10-12psi on the street and 20-25 on the track.

if im forgetting something please ask direct questions about any more information you need, i understand that nobody can give me an acurate estimate, im more looking for a general estimate.

Thank you.

[stsalvage]

The best thing you should done was come around back in 2006--2009 Metal was up to $500 - $900.00 a ton I could of set you up with anything for 1200.00. $300 finder fee But now your left with all the hand me downs and someone that thought it was a good Idea to strip a truck down and sell it as a full truck in Boxes and wanting full Price.


Now before you get into Options do you know anything about these truck the flaws that some of them had and what parts to really Keep your eyes open fore cus it makes your life so much Better and makes your truck look more like a factory truck instead of a Put together modal.


Let's start off that you Know nothing about these trucks your dum as a brick. Or a better word for it a Newbie.

That's OK cus if you admit to that you are. Smarter than the countless others that think they know what they're talking about.

If you're already Bought a 1969-70 truck already and you want to start swapping parts.

I say that my Grandfather told me once Best off buy a truck that fits what you want an add the little parts.

Sound like you want to reinvent the wheel. I see it will cost you more time and money and if you know nothing about what options work well with these trucks you will grow tired of your truck in 2-3 years and sell it as parts.


One rule to when you start working on these trucks. Keep it running and drive it as much as you can. Once you tear it down to nothing you lose interest then it goes on the back burner.

So whatever you do Keep it running an driving. Then get a game plan buy all your parts get them painted or Powder coated get your new engine built.

Then get your rear end done.

If you can find another Frame to do some test mocking up on Puts you way ahead of the Game. Engine brackets are you going with aftermarket brackets or Factory Brackets.

What are you trying to make your truck into a Drag truck a factory stock truck or a trailer Queen?

Here is One more speed Bump that if you have not heard The USA is trying to get us off Using Gas so think making your truck go electric motors.

But Parts you might want to look for if you don't already have them makes my life easier doing it this way even though I own 9 chevy trucks 1964--72 2 3 door suburbans and 1 1968 longhorn and a mock-up 1971 big block nova. But getting back to useful parts.

The Power steering brackets came on 1969--72 chevy trucks.

Using the 1973 Corvette HEI plug wires that run under the motor and throw the front motor mounts if you use Ram Horns.

The Edelbrock duel plain intake uses the 1964--68 truck Thermostat housing It points straight at the radiator so you can use the temp sending unit on the intake manifold instead of having it on the side of the head. Where the wire always burns up.

If you're like your turn single side markers to Flash while you make a right or left turn Buy 1971 or 1972 front light harness if you're going to shave the side markers then order the 1967 light harness.

If you think about going Cheap on either one of these Please don't it will come back to bite you in the Butt later Use the re-pop M&H wire harness for your truck spend the 900.00 and all your Power issues will go bye bye.

The last one your front end bushings use MOOG replacement parts on all your screw in bushings change everything upper and lower ball joints an get it alignment.

Run BFG TA 15 inch tires they will last 80K Buy them from Tire Rack No tax an no shipping Cost on your tires plus you get road hazard. If you don't use 15 Use tire rack anyways. Save you a few bucks

here are a few picutes

[stsalvage]

here are the Must have power steering brackets, makes hose routing so much Nicer and so easy to work with

[special-K]

Looks to me like, from the text in his post, he has already built it and just wants to know what numbers to expect from the motor he described.

What was your goal before deciding on building it? I really can't give figures with any accuracy. I'm not sure why knowing these figures matters at this point. Get it to where you can put it on a dyno for the truth. Otherwise, it's about the seat of your pants and miles per smiles. Numbers are for boasting. We've seen the lesser number shut down the bigger number time and time again

[Grumpy old man]

If you have built it already I'd like to see some pics , If not I see about 35k in parts alone and with no hood /rear bumper stripped interior /on a long bed stock body/ frame truck ? and dumping all those performance parts thru turbos on hot gas into a 1st gen small block I don't think it will make 1 complete dyno pull . let alone using it on the street and strip ? Just getting all those parts to work together could be a battle in it's own ,With a 15 gal gas tank You may get 3 miles to the gallon I hope it all works out for you . I'd like to see it ? Let's see some pictures of what your working with .

[GASoline71]

Step away from the Street Outlaws show...

Gary

[scott123]

With all those parts it should jump from street light to street light. Numbers wise I will guess the turbo will make up some for the camshaft. That cam shaft will be the limiting factor in all out performance. it is not much more than a towing cam with nicer parts surrounding it.

I'd say around 300, maybe 325HP without the turbo, if that.

HP will be hard to come by with that cam and head selection.

I have the same heads, similar cam shaft in a 383 stroker myself in a 69 4WD. It has nice streetable power but working RPM band of the cam and heads is limiting.

Best of luck.

Scott

[Psudokiller]

so the first guy is basically telling me i should either scrap my truck or take it completely apart again and restore it to factory original, and then is telling me how to do it, all the while telling me how stupid i am.

the second guy realizes that the truck is already built and basically said not to worry about the numbers and have fun cause numbers mean less than some people think, and is generally being respectful

the third guy wants pictures and thinks that a small block chevy cant hold very much power without blowing up

fourth guy thinks anyone who builds a purpose built dragster is only doing it cause of street outlaws

and the last guy its actually offering advice about my build and giving me some proper feedback and opinions and direction on where to improve.

so here is my response,

to the first guy (stsalvage), the truck is already built, i am not going to scrap it that is retarded, and im not going to tear apart my project to do it how you think i should, this will never be a daily driver, i already have one

to the second guy (special-kl), you seem to be one of the smart ones, thank you for your honest opinion and you have a point about not worrying about the numbers.

to the third (grumpy old man), i will probably post pictures soon on a separate thread, as to the not making one dyno pull before blowing up part, i find that very hard to believe as my uncle currently has a fuel altered dragster with a 355 SBC iron block injected on nitro-methane
and i have seen stock blocks well over 1000hp in person

to the fourth guy (gasoline71), it is a very ignorant comment to think that the only reason someone wants to build a fast car for the TRACK is because they watched too many street outlaws episodes just because they want to keep it street legal, thats like thinking that some dude with a 1000hp built supra is watching too much fast and furious, which is not always the case

to the last guy (scott123), thank you for your advice, i see what you mean about the cam and heads, i was honestly worried about that limitation myself, which is part of the reason i made this thread, since you seem to know what your talking about, would you be willing to give me an example of the type of cam and head combination you think would work better for my build to get the most out of the setup, thank you.

[special-K]

I do say numbers is numbers and all the rest, when it comes to what really matters... unless you are in a dyno shootout. But mainly I'm saying why ask now? This is the question to ask before getting into it. Now that it's built, put it on the dyno to see what you ended up with on a print out.

[Psudokiller]

i guess i see your point, more of a curiosity i guess, no its not a dyno truck, its intended to be a drag truck with VERY limited street use

[special-K]

You ask a simple question and...

I don't know enough to offer an estimate, but I'd thing a good but over 300 hp with that turbo. I have a 327 built to 300+ (on stand still) with flat tops, 9.5:1, air gap intake, 64cc 1.94 Chevy heads, 1.6:1 roller rockers, and cam I'd have to look up but it was chosen to give as much that stock stall would allow. Now I am going with M22 and am thinking to go with a lumpier cam. I'll probably leave as is and see how I like it. It was originally going to be a truck for local fun and some track time. The local track is dead now (another not too far, though) and I'm thinking I'd rather have the truck for doing long runs around the country once I'm retired. So maybe the lumpy cam thing can go on the shelf. I have a hot 11 second Harley for that anyway

[scott123]

to the last guy (scott123), thank you for your advice, i see what you mean about the cam and heads, i was honestly worried about that limitation myself, which is part of the reason i made this thread, since you seem to know what your talking about, would you be willing to give me an example of the type of cam and head combination you think would work better for my build to get the most out of the setup, thank you.

The best thing to do is contact the tech guys at World Products. Give them the information you posted here ans they can recommend a good cam set up. I'm not a turbo guy so what I might think is good, may not be so good with boost.

From street light to street light your combination will do just fine. I have Sportsman II heads on a 383. I went with an Eagle rotating assembly. I have a Comp Cams 280H cam (480 lift) with a Edelbrock RPM intake and a Holley 650DP. With the pistons I chose my compression is around 9.6:1. It makes good power for no more than I spent putting it together. The cam tops out around 6000 rpm's. The intake, maybe 6500 with the plate. The truck has yet ot see 6000 rpms so I am not sure how flat it will get if it were top that. Street light ot street light, mud hole to mud hole, I like it a lot. As the old folks say, 'the only thing it will not pass is a gas station'. Mileage stinks.

I also have a 72 blazer. It has a 355 with AFR aluminum heads, an Edelbrock RPM intake and a Holley 650DP. The cam is much taller than my truck but I bought the Blazer as is so I do not know the specs on the camshaft. The compression is closer to 10:1, or thereabouts, as it spark knocks without 93 octane. It has SM465/NP205 set up. Fun to drive and fun to talk about. The mileage and drive ability over long distances leaves a lot to be desired. This blazer will be my first LS project in the coming weeks.

Best of luck with your build. I'm not sure how much this helps. I'm more of a personal experience guy. If I built it, sat in it or drove it, I consider that viable to pass on.

It all boils down to part selection and their compatibility. I had a 83K5 once with a GM Goodrench 350. The quadrajet started having issues and I went with an off the shelf 600 vacuum secondary Holley. The truck worked perfectly. Some years later that carb started acting up and I put a Holley 2 barrel off one of the dirt cars we had, it was a 350 ot 390 CFM, can't remember now. That K5 4WD with a Goodwrnech engine fan better with that little carb than I would have ever imagined. I was in the hig teens, 20MPG out on the open highway. If i were choosing parts I would never have chosen the Holley 2 barrel. Go figure?

Scott

[Fraud]

I really want to see pictures of this setup. I don't have much else to add.