rotella oil FYI

[BCOWANWHEELS]

Well got a flat lobe on my cam............. I run rotella 15w40 in winter and straight 40 in hot months, i change my oil and filter every 2k miles. Folk say rotella has zddp in it. Wrong........fellas dont count on it with non roller cam engines. Add the zddp in your oil trust me.. Personally i run lucas.

[Whamp48]

I did a little research recently and was told Chevron 400 15W40 has the most ppm of zinc at 1300 ppm. But I'm going to add the Lucas zinc, that way I know there's something in there.

[Warrens69GMC]

They lowered about 2 years ago with the "low sulphur" formula

[KQQL IT]

The low emissions formula in delo and rotella both

[Sheepdip]

Regardless of what the oils say/advertise I always add a pint of Lucas Zinc.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by Sheepdip

Regardless of what the oils say/advertise I always add a pint of Lucas Zinc.

I add the Lucas zinc additive at every oil change also.. My oil of choice is what I ran in my race engines because of the higher zinc numbers, is Valvoline single weight VR-1 racing oil.. I have a 454 in my truck. I run straight 30W.. Hot idle, the gauge indicates 30 psi.. Above 2,000 RPM, the gauge indicates 50 psi.. Just fine for a never-works-hard street BBC.. VR-1 comes in several viscosities, including multi-vis, if that's your preference.. It costs a bit more, but I've never lost an engine to cam or bearing failure while using it..

These old flat tappet engines of ours need lots of zinc.. Other internal parts - valve guides, rocker arms, rings, etc. thrive on it also.. Don't be afraid to add more zinc, even if the oil you're using claims to have some zinc in it..

[BCOWANWHEELS]

Theres only zinc in 40 weight and up vr-1...........look on bottle

[BCOWANWHEELS]

I,am thinking amsoil with lucas zddp added.............

[Ironangel]

I've ran Rotella T 10w-40 in my 1980 KZ-1000, 1952 Ford 8N, 1991 Jeep Cherokee, (720K miles and still pullin fords out the ditches) and both my 72 C/10's. Oh, forgot my John Deere and Cub Cadet lawn tractors...Until two years ago when Rotella T went MAGA...I drained em all and went with this stuff in the various grades according to application. 30w for the tractors, 10w-40 for everything except the racing BBC in "Nasty Sally"...She gets the zinc additive with the 10w-30, solid lifter 12:1 domed 427...The Z1 motor in the bike is still factory never rebuilt with 70K miles on the clock. She still turns high 11's on street rubber and eats Hardley Screaming Eagles for breakfast!...Two old owners of one of Americas last "Mom & Pop" auto parts and machine shops, (Mr. Automotive) turned me to this stuff. So far, no complaints! I break my engines in on Joe Gibbs Driven BR and then on to the Mag-1... https://mag1.com/products/heavy-duty...el-engine-oil/

[bowtie72]

I run Amsoil z-rod oil in my flat tapped engines. Has worked for years.

[MJN]

Originally Posted by bowtie72

I run Amsoil z-rod oil in my flat tapped engines. Has worked for years.

+1 I run Amsoil Z-rod in my flat tappet engines as well. I also use their Break-in oil. No issues or leaks what so ever- even with the old fashioned cork gaskets. I'll also disclose I am a Certified Independent AMSOIL dealer.

The AMSOIL Premium Protection 10w40 (AMO) also has high levels of zinc and is ideal for flat-tappet cams.

Here is a chart showing zinc levels of 40 different oils for your reference.
http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/forums...2/m/1631078456

Some additional reading:
https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/aut...my-gas-engine/

https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/aut...-daily-driver/

Also some comments about zinc by a GM engineer:

Over the years there has been an overabundance of engine oil myths. Here are some facts you may want to pass along to customers to help debunk the fiction behind these myths.
The Pennsylvania Crude Myth -- This myth is based on a misapplication of truth. In 1859, the first commercially successful oil well was drilled in Titusville, Pennsylvania.


A myth got started before World War II claiming that the only good oils were those made from pure Pennsylvania crude oil. At the time, only minimal refining was used to make engine oil from crude oil. Under these refining conditions, Pennsylvania crude oil made better engine oil than Texas crude or California crude. Today, with modern refining methods, almost any crude can be made into good engine oil.
Other engine oil myths are based on the notion that the new and the unfamiliar are somehow "bad."

The Detergent Oil Myth -- The next myth to appear is that modern detergent engine oils
are bad for older engines. This one got started after World War II, when the government no longer needed all of the available detergent oil for the war effort, and detergent oil hit the market as “heavy-duty” oil.

Many pre-war cars had been driven way past their normal life, their engines were full of sludge and deposits, and the piston rings were completely worn out. Massive piston deposits were the only thing standing between merely high oil consumption and horrendous oil consumption. After a thorough purge by the new detergent oil, increased oil consumption was a possible consequence.

If detergent oils had been available to the public during the war, preventing the massive deposit buildup from occurring in the first place, this myth never would have started. Amazingly, there are still a few people today, 60 years later, who believe that they need to use non-detergent oil in their older cars. Apparently, it takes many years for an oil myth to die.

The Synthetic Oil Myth -- Then there is the myth that new engine break-in will not occur with synthetic oils. This one was apparently started by an aircraft engine manufacturer who put out a bulletin that said so. The fact is that Mobil 1 synthetic oil has been the factory-fill for many thousands of engines. Clearly, they have broken in quite well, and that should put this one to rest.

The Starburst Oil Myth -- The latest myth promoted by the antique and collector car press says that new Starburst/ API SM engine oils (called Starburst for the shape of the symbol on the container) are bad for older engines because the amount of anti-wear additive in them has been reduced. The anti-wear additive being discussed is zinc dithiophosphate (ZDP).

Before debunking this myth, we need to look at the history of ZDP usage. For over 60 years, ZDP has been used as an additive in engine oils to provide wear protection and oxidation stability.

ZDP was first added to engine oil to control copper/lead bearing corrosion. Oils with a phosphorus level in the 0.03% range passed a corrosion test introduced in 1942.

In the mid-1950s, when the use of high-lift camshafts increased the potential for scuffing and wear, the phosphorus level contributed by ZDP was increased to the 0.08% range.

In addition, the industry developed a battery of oil tests (called sequences), two of which were valve-train scuffing and wear tests.

A higher level of ZDP was good for flat-tappet valve-train scuffing and wear, but it turned out that more was not better. Although break-in scuffing was reduced by using more phosphorus, longer-term wear increased when phosphorus rose above 0.14%. And, at about 0.20% phosphorus, the ZDP started attacking the grain boundaries in the iron, resulting in camshaft spalling.

By the 1970s, increased antioxidancy was needed to protect the oil in high-load engines, which otherwise could thicken to a point where the engine could no longer pump it. Because ZDP was an inexpensive and effective antioxidant, it was used to place the phosphorus level in the 0.10% range.

However, phosphorus is a poison for exhaust catalysts. So, ZDP levels have been reduced over the last 10-15 years. It's now down to a maximum of 0.08% for Starburst oils. This was supported by the introduction of modern ashless antioxidants that contain no phosphorus.

Enough history. Let's get back to the myth that Starburst oils are no good for older engines. The argument put forth is that while these oils work perfectly well in modern, gasoline engines equipped with roller camshafts, they will cause catastrophic wear in older engines equipped with flat-tappet camshafts.

The facts say otherwise.

Backward compatibility was of great importance when the Starburst oil standards were developed by a group of experts from the OEMs, oil companies, and oil additive companies. In addition, multiple oil and additive companies ran no-harm tests on older engines with the new oils; and no problems were uncovered.

The new Starburst specification contains two valve-train wear tests. All Starburst oil formulations must pass these two tests.

- Sequence IVA tests for camshaft scuffing and wear using a single overhead camshaft engine with slider finger (not roller) followers.

- Sequence IIIG evaluates cam and lifter wear using a V6 engine with a flat-tappet system, similar to those used in the 1980s.
Those who hold onto the myth are ignoring the fact that the new Starburst oils contain about the same percentage of ZDP as the oils that solved the camshaft scuffing and wear issues back in the 1950s. (True, they do contain less ZDP than the oils that solved the oil thickening issues in the 1960s, but that's because they now contain high levels of ashless antioxidants not commercially available in the 1960s.)

Despite the pains taken in developing special flat-tappet camshaft wear tests that these new oils must pass and the fact that the ZDP level of these new oils is comparable to the level found necessary to protect flat-tappet camshafts in the past, there will still be those who want to believe the myth that new oils will wear out older engines.

Like other myths before it, history teaches us that it will probably take 60 or 70 years for this one to die also.
- Thanks to Bob Olree – GM Powertrain Fuels and Lubricants Group

[Sheepdip]

I'm not a Petroleum Engineer nor do I claim to be, but sometimes what goes on in the lab and on paper does not mimic what goes on in the real world.

I personally have three flat tappet cam motors in use, 1 driver, 1 hotrod and 1 work horse, I have added zinc ever since they reduced it without a single problem on any of my engines. A few people I personally know have not fared so well with flat tappets going south real quick using todays oils straight up.

My motto is "if it ain't broke don't fix it", I use add Lucas zinc and will continue to use it.

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by Sheepdip

I'm not a Petroleum Engineer nor do I claim to be, but sometimes what goes on in the lab and on paper does not mimic what goes on in the real world.

I personally have three flat tappet cam motors in use, 1 driver, 1 hotrod and 1 work horse, I have added zinc ever since they reduced it without a single problem on any of my engines. A few people I personally know have not fared so well with flat tappets going south real quick using todays oils straight up.

My motto is "if it ain't broke don't fix it", I use add Lucas zinc and will continue to use it.

I agree, I add it as a precaution. Seems to be working.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by BCOWANWHEELS

Theres only zinc in 40 weight and up vr-1...........look on bottle

I dunno what bottle you've been looking at but as I type this, I'm looking at a bottle of my Valvoline VR-1 30 wt racing oil.. AND it says right at the top of the label: HIGH ZINC.. There are also warnings and statements elsewhere on the back that says: "Exceeds API service SL, Valvoline Racing Oil was created to meet the unique demands of racing engines, etc., etc... High zinc formula.. Not suitable for certain emissions systems... Another warning in another location on the back label says" Not recommended for extended use in vehicles equipped with catalytic converters.." All them words tell there's zinc in this here oil..

Somewhere in my cluttered shop, I have a Technical Report provided to me by Valvoline.. In the report is listed the zinc content of their oil.. I don't have that report handy or I would divulge the information it contains.. But I seem to remember the number 1300 PPM zinc in the oil formulation.. Under any event, I always add some Lucas zinc additive at each oil change.. I have an all original 1960 Cushman scooter that I ride occasionally.. I use VR-1 in it's original flathead engine.. I also add some Lucas Zinc to the oil..

Nuff said???

[toolboxchev]

I swear someone is trying to bring out of my grave. Please, do yourself a favor...do some more research.

Its a long read but you will see the truth in motor oils in the end. Most of those diesel oils do not have the high film strength test mark.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

He also has a section on the diesel.

Valvoline (despite what everyone says) is actually pretty good stuff. Film strength up around 100k psi vs. most diesel oils around 70-90k psi even having some or the needed amount of zinc.

I now have over 87 K. on a complete top end rebuild I did by myself with a Comp Cams kit in a 350.

Its all the proof in the pudding I need.

[Mbeef61]

Oil can be a touchy topic. People get “passionate” about it.

A couple of quotes from the linked article. I have read it before. It’s good stuff. I’ll leave the formulations to the chemists...

“A high level of zinc/phos is simply no guarantee of providing sufficient wear protection. And to make matters even worse, excessively high levels of zinc/phos can actually “cause” DAMAGE your engine, rather than “prevent” it. Motor Oil Industry testing has found that motor oils with more than 1,400 ppm ZDDP, INCREASED long-term wear. And it was also found that motor oils with more than 2,000 ppm ZDDP started attacking the grain boundaries in the iron, resulting in camshaft spalling (pitting and flaking).”

“Most major oil companies say to NEVER EVER add anything to their oils, because doing so will upset the oil’s carefully balanced additive package that was designed by their Chemical Engineers. I tested doing that very thing in several different oils, and found that adding zinc additives in every case, ruined the oils by SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCING their wear protection capability. That of course, is just the opposite of what people “think” they will be getting. So, those major oil Companies were absolutely correct about not adding anything to their oil. And people who insist on choosing an oil based on zinc level alone, are very likely shooting themselves in the foot, and ending up with far LESS wear protection than they THINK they have. ”

[robs71]

Sometimes overlooked oil is Brad Penn,now renamed PennGrade (the green oil)..for you guys that like to research your products you may be surprised.my 2 cents...Rob

[mr.precision]

Fischer was recommended to me for my C2 corvette.
It's difficult to keep up with all the changes going on in modern motor oils. Just because a particular brand once had the additive package we thought was good for flat tappet motors doesn't mean the same package exists today. Thus the need for a specialized oil, such as Brad Penn or others.
This particular brand contains 1200-1400 ppm anti-wear additives. See the website if interested.

[palallin]

Ya know, my poor, ol' 327 jus' keeps on keepin' on. I use whatever comes off the shelf in 10W-30. It's been 25 years since the engine was gone through (mostly just a freshen up), and the motor is still smoother than the 5.3 in my wife's Tahoe.

Of course, I don't abuse it, either. I never get it over 3000 rpm; I don't race, do burnouts, or other such showin' off; and I rarely tow/haul overly heavy loads. Given some of the things I read about here, I'm not surprised a large number of motors fail; they'd fail no matter the oil used.

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by mr.precision

Fischer was recommended to me for my C2 corvette.
It's difficult to keep up with all the changes going on in modern motor oils. Just because a particular brand once had the additive package we thought was good for flat tappet motors doesn't mean the same package exists today. Thus the need for a specialized oil, such as Brad Penn or others.
This particular brand contains 1200-1400 ppm anti-wear additives. See the website if interested.

Great, But what is the film strength?