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Old 06-01-2004, 07:52 PM   #1
Russ72C10
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Help with steering arm removal...

I just began the install of a 4" Tuff Country lift - and will be putting on a drop-down steering arm. However, the stock arm does not want to come off. I've removed the nuts, but per the instructions there's tapered 'locks' that hold the steering arm onto the knuckle. It says to tap lightly to release the locks. I've tapped lightly, moderately, and used a 2-lb sledge in an attempt to persuade this thing to move. Those nuts aren't cooperating. Being an '84 model I bet this stuff hasn't been touched since the truck was new.

I can't really continue with the lift (to my liking) without replacing this steering arm. HELP! Suggestions????

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Old 06-01-2004, 08:29 PM   #2
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well, get a 12 pack, a couple packs of smokes, some good tunes, and a bigger hammer. its gonna take a while... i beat on the ones off of my '79 K10 front axle for almost 3 hours, the arm is hardly recognizable. and all i have accomplished is one of the cone washers came out. still 2 in there, and they probably will be when i sell it or trash it. i found a deal on a Dana 60, so im ditching the 10 bolt idea.
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Old 06-01-2004, 08:35 PM   #3
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What i do to get them off is soak them down with PB pentrating blaster its kinda like wd-40 but alot better Then put the nuts on the studs and kind hit them to jarr the cone up if that doesnt work i apply heat and hit the arm I have seen some that required alot of time others just fall right off.

\ If you have trouble getting the new one all the way down i have found an old lug nut will help to pull it down.
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Old 06-03-2004, 01:02 AM   #4
Russ72C10
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Good news! I ended up getting that !@#$ steering arm off. It just took a good beating. I pounded the end where the draglink connects for about 10 minutes and ta-da, those little tapered lock nuts came up enough for me to get them out of the way.
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Old 06-04-2004, 10:10 AM   #5
Grim Reaper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russ72C10
Good news! I ended up getting that !@#$ steering arm off. It just took a good beating. I pounded the end where the draglink connects for about 10 minutes and ta-da, those little tapered lock nuts came up enough for me to get them out of the way.
They SUCK! LOL Those cone washers wedge in there and nothing you can do but keep beating on it till they pop up. I had to swap a couple and both had been off ecently and it still took a full our of phonding and cussing before it came off.
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Old 06-04-2004, 10:47 AM   #6
Destructo
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I didn't have much trouble getting mine off, those tapered will actually twist out sometimes, mine did anyway, I just beat mine until one came loose and then actually twisted it out and then the next one would get loose and repeated until all 3 were out and the arm came right off, I couldn't figure out what everybody was fussin about, mine came off a 79 axle and looked like it had never been changed.
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Old 06-04-2004, 10:48 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1972C10
What i do to get them off is soak them down with PB pentrating blaster its kinda like wd-40 but alot better Then put the nuts on the studs and kind hit them to jarr the cone up if that doesnt work i apply heat and hit the arm I have seen some that required alot of time others just fall right off.

\ If you have trouble getting the new one all the way down i have found an old lug nut will help to pull it down.
I also did mine this way... Used PB-Blaster and it came off pretty easily, tapped the studs with the nuts on them will probably help some also.
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1985 Scottsdale Shortbed 4x4
Stout 350 with some "upgrades"-700r4-33x12.5" Mud Tires, Warn 8274-50 winch.

2005 Chevrolet Colorado Regular Cab 2wd 4-banger, 5 speed, Street Pack with 3.73 axle.
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