Project: Montezuma

[KMC3420]

Great progress as always.

[May70]

Well I made some progress over the last few months. Floor pan is welded in all the way around. Rear pinch seam is finished off along with DS/PS.

Awesome to see the bracing out and that brand spanking new floor. Bottom 8 inches of the cab actually, is brand spanking!!

Not pictured but Ive got the DS lower kick panel in and am welding up that corner. Still need to do the PS.

Been real slow between life/work and the other cab. Weather has been too humid/wet here to do much paint work either.

[Kronald_70GMC]

The feeling you get once you can cut out the bracing is phenomenal. To see all that solid metal supporting itself after weeks or months of work is amazing! Keep it up

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by May70

Well I made some progress over the last few months. Floor pan is welded in all the way around. Rear pinch seam is finished off along with DS/PS.

Awesome to see the bracing out and that brand spanking new floor. Bottom 8 inches of the cab actually, is brand spanking!!

Not pictured but Ive got the DS lower kick panel in and am welding up that corner. Still need to do the PS.

Been real slow between life/work and the other cab. Weather has been too humid/wet here to do much paint work either.

You have helped so many here on the Forum

Keep up the Great work

You even Inspired me to post (Video's) on my U tube Channel

[KMC3420]

Hey May, hope life is treating you well. Curious on your plug welds. What size hole did you drill? I am to the point of putting my rockers on and haven't even thought about hole sizes. I did read 5/16" upon googling, but that seems a bit large. Curious what size drill bit you used? Thanks.

[May70]

Originally Posted by KMC3420

Hey May, hope life is treating you well. Curious on your plug welds. What size hole did you drill? I am to the point of putting my rockers on and haven't even thought about hole sizes. I did read 5/16" upon googling, but that seems a bit large. Curious what size drill bit you used? Thanks.

I've been extremely busy and nothing too bad lately w/life. Just finished a floor pan/rockers/corners/pillars in bigmacs cab, hes supposed to be picking it up. Id like to get back to my truck but I have a whole list of things I need to do before that. Got a whole bunch of stuff that needs fixing around this place that are making matters worse by the day probably. Try not to think about it and just take one thing at a time. Cant even tell you the last time I "relaxed" was. Anyway...

I went a bit over 1/4". Less than 1/4" I found the hole was filling too quickly and I wasn't getting the penetration I wanted. Even by turning the feed down I still didnt like the results. Stepped up the hole size, amps and got good results. I use mig so that wouldn't be an issue with tig. 5/16 doesn't sound too far off but no larger.

Id say do a test and see how the penetration looks on the back side. You want really good penetration into the lower panel. Adjust settings or hole size to get acceptable results. Wire size etc will lend different results.

[KMC3420]

Originally Posted by May70

I've been extremely busy and nothing too bad lately w/life. Just finished a floor pan/rockers/corners/pillars in bigmacs cab, hes supposed to be picking it up. Id like to get back to my truck but I have a whole list of things I need to do before that. Got a whole bunch of stuff that needs fixing around this place that are making matters worse by the day probably. Try not to think about it and just take one thing at a time. Cant even tell you the last time I "relaxed" was. Anyway...

I went a bit over 1/4". Less than 1/4" I found the hole was filling too quickly and I wasn't getting the penetration I wanted. Even by turning the feed down I still didnt like the results. Stepped up the hole size, amps and got good results. I use mig so that wouldn't be an issue with tig. 5/16 doesn't sound too far off but no larger.

Id say do a test and see how the penetration looks on the back side. You want really good penetration into the lower panel. Adjust settings or hole size to get acceptable results. Wire size etc will lend different results.

I can relate to your list of house items that are lingering...it never ends. I pressure washed my house this past weekend and that lead to me needing to do some gutter work, and then cleaning gutters..and then to cleaning windows, snow ball effect. Winter will be here soon though. I am using my mig, and am using a 1/4" drill bit as well. I had to crank up the amps after my first plug weld in order to get good penetration. I think I might step up 1 or 2 drill bit sizes to ensure I'm getting good weld on the bottom panel first, then do my circle to capture the top panel, or the @, starting in the middle. Appreciate the insight!

[ba2345]

man this is cool to see all the work you have done to this old pickup got a 72 c20 that needs some of this tlc you are giving to this one i like how you picked it all up with the engine hoist.might need to buy me one as well.any ways good job on the pics a lot of good information on here that others can use especially me. It gives me a place to start

[May70]

Originally Posted by ba2345

man this is cool to see all the work you have done to this old pickup got a 72 c20 that needs some of this tlc you are giving to this one i like how you picked it all up with the engine hoist.might need to buy me one as well.any ways good job on the pics a lot of good information on here that others can use especially me. It gives me a place to start

Thanks. I actually welded in the other kick panel most of the way today. It was nice to actually make some progress on it for the first time in like 6 months. Did another members cab this past summer so it kept me tied up. Not sure if you saw the link to my YouTube in the bio below my posts but that’s got a ton of repair vids on it. A lot more content on my YouTube than here lately.

Ive been searching for an engine here lately, hopefully I’ll find a 6.2 but we will see. Going out for surgery next month and won’t be doing much for a few months.

[May70]

Spent a little time in the garage today. Picked up a repro bed for a decent deal.
Found out later some damage on the corner was a bit more than a dent. Haven't looked into it too much but was out there today putting new hardware on the tailgate.

[Alex69c10]

Looks like a nice project. I think I need a new bed too! Good luck with the project.

[May70]

Originally Posted by Alex69c10

Looks like a nice project. I think I need a new bed too! Good luck with the project.

Thanks

[May70]

Did some firewall removal trying to figure out how I want to customize the PS to cover up where the blower/heater was.

[May70]

More progress on the firewall/cowl. The blower intake was no longer needed and blocked access to the rest of the area so I removed it. Ill have to do some work in there where I cut it off to make sure the water drains good.

Had a rust spot I found in a hard to reach spot. Took a while to do that one but got it done today.

[May70]

Threw some metal etch on the inside and some weld through primer where im going to weld in my firewall mods

Edit: Added pics of rust spot under the blower motor intake inside the cowl. I didnt know it until I blasted it from the cowl side. Couldnt tell from under the dash.

[May70]

Well I finally found a deal (I think), either way its mine. No major issues seen. Im hoping I get away without having to punch it. Going to the machine shop this week to check everything over. Once the engine checks out its time to start spending some cash money!! Not sure if ill be using the 317 heads or the rear end. We shall see.

03 LQ4 4L80E

[May70]

In the last few weeks I decided to change over to true power steering (from the power assist setup I had). Unfortunately I purchased special adjuster sleeves (POL) and inner tie rods so thats probably about $100 thrown out. Hopefully I can sell with all the other stuff ive accumulated at the end of this build.

So - I pulled the power steering unit and center link off the old donor frame I got the disc brake setup off of. Picked up a new pitman arm. Cleaned that off the gear box and painted everything, then realized the gear box started leaking from the input shaft. Kit from amazon should be here tomorrow. Apparently Timken stopped producing needle bearings altogether and they reference Koyo parts now. Ill be interested to see what comes in the kit. I couldn't find a cross reference for the Torrington bearing that was in the unit. Hopefully this kit goes smoothly and I can get everything together and put one final coat of paint on it all. Ill post more on the steering box details later. I know I need to update my other thread on disk breaks when this is over. I also cleaned up the hubs since sitting in the humidity caused them to rust a bit.

No word from the machine shop on the engine, they are still very busy. Once I get news Ill hopefully be taking the transmission to a guy to go through.

[KMC3420]

Looking good May. It’s been a minute but some warmer weather headed our way!! I have an LQ4. Going with 243 heads. Better do a cam swap at least while your that far along.

[May70]

Originally Posted by KMC3420

Looking good May. It’s been a minute but some warmer weather headed our way!! I have an LQ4. Going with 243 heads. Better do a cam swap at least while your that far along.

KMC - Do you know if the stock oil pan is going to clear the cross member?

Also I would say I did a significant amount of research over the course of about a week. For my use and desire, a cam would essentially be of no benefit and would add about $400 to the bill in parts. I will get more low end out of a tune than a cam. Even the best 'low end' cams (being ~2500rpm and under) are only throwing an extra 4-10 ft-lbs at best and that's theoretical. Some even have substantial low end losses. Most swaps you only benefit ~5k rpm and up which my truck will never see. I elected to put a stock 6.0 cam back in since mine was wrecked. Also keeping 317 heads. I had extensive conversations with the machine show guys and spoke with summit, BTR and a few others. It was pretty much across the board not going to benefit my desire/use, cost more and probably complicate things for me (and I'm trying to keep things as simple as possible when I can).

[KMC3420]

Originally Posted by May70

KMC - Do you know if the stock oil pan is going to clear the cross member?

Also I would say I did a significant amount of research over the course of about a week. For my use and desire, a cam would essentially be of no benefit and would add about $400 to the bill in parts. I will get more low end out of a tune than a cam. Even the best 'low end' cams (being ~2500rpm and under) are only throwing an extra 4-10 ft-lbs at best and that's theoretical. Some even have substantial low end losses. Most swaps you only benefit ~5k rpm and up which my truck will never see. I elected to put a stock 6.0 cam back in since mine was wrecked. Also keeping 317 heads. I had extensive conversations with the machine show guys and spoke with summit, BTR and a few others. It was pretty much across the board not going to benefit my desire/use, cost more and probably complicate things for me (and I'm trying to keep things as simple as possible when I can).

Typically no, the stock truck oil pan won’t fit with the stock cross member. All depends on the motor mounts however. I believe some mounts allow the truck oil pan to be used but may also allow the pan to hang lower than the cross member which isn’t ideal. 100% agree on the cam swap. Not needed if your going all stock. I opted to go with the truck Norris cam from BTR. It had the best curve and is still low enough lift so it’s not so rough on the valve train. I figured since it’s out might as well, but truly the stock HP will suffice more often than not. At this point I have my floor in, cab corners, rockers. And now doing the inner roof by the visors. I would love to throw a bone stock 6.0 in it and roll on down the road, smiles for miles. We will get there my man! Just time and money.

[OneOffStroker]

Originally Posted by May70

KMC - Do you know if the stock oil pan is going to clear the cross member?

I had a 5.3l from a 2003 Silverado in my '69 Suburban, and the factory oil pan fit just fine. I don't think they changed the truck pans much over the years...maybe 4WD ones are a little different, but I'm not sure.

However, I did use mounts that moved the engine (and pan) back about 2", so that may be why I had no issues with my swap.

[May70]

I ordered the Holley Blackheart LS swap kit for a 67 wide frame rails and 4l80 trans kit number is VK090196. That comes with BHS538 , 71222024HKR-1 , 71223015HKR , 71223029HKR , 71221016HKR (x2) and 71221018HKR (x2).

If you're curious to know wide vs narrow frame rail details see my thread here: I also give measurements etc
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=834605

One poly mount insert is back ordered and so is the trans crossmember. Hoping that is all here within a few weeks but we shall see.. Ill be painting all the kit pieces.

Picked up my transmission from the best transmission guy around Jr McCarty. It was $1700 for a cleaning and total rebuild. I honestly didnt even shop around for pricing. He is worth the money as I have been told by many folks.

Stopped by the machine shop and he said it would be done next week. Felt like my BP better not know the bill till then either!

[LT7A]

Great job on all that rust. On the one hand, it made me tired just watching. On the other hand, your methodical approach made it seem like I might be able to do it if it comes my turn.

[May70]

Originally Posted by LT7A

Great job on all that rust. On the one hand, it made me tired just watching. On the other hand, your methodical approach made it seem like I might be able to do it if it comes my turn.

Thanks!

//

Engine is back. Waiting on one mount insert and trans crossmember. Called Holley and they gave me this update since they said they don't track where orders are in the priority (keep this in mind as you read).

Mount insert: More expected 9/30
29 B.O. Last order filled - placed 9/2021 , shipped 10/2021

Trans Xmember: More expected 6/18
39 B.O. Last order filled - placed 9/2021 , shipped 12/2021

I hung up and got to thinking - thats weird. I received one insert and just placed the order 5/20, so why are they saying the last complete shipment was 10/2021? I know there were B.O.'s when I placed the order.

Holley said they ship based on a first in - first out policy. Interesting they said they couldn't tell me where my order was in the list, huh? That makes me believe their are three potential explanations.
1- They made a mistake or they don't really ship first in - first out
2- They are intentionally sending people one of multiple required items (potentially so they are less inclined to cancel the order)
3- Their information being provided about orders and shipments is incorrect (if they know that or not - who knows)

Another point to note here is that when I called last they said nothing would be shipped until its all together. However when I checked out - all the individual pieces of the kit showed up as separate line items and here I am with an incomplete kit.

Also everything I have received will need to be painted because the coating they use is not good. Im used to this by now but for the money, that's pretty sad.

Ill be calling back later this month to see how many orders got shipped out, if I'm not on the ship TO list. I may end up cancelling the trans crossmember and insert order but I don't want to do that. Maybe ill get lucky. Im going to try to find out if the inserts are the same as the GM standards. Maybe I can get one to put in its place while I keep moving.

Going to wait to paint until I mock up etc.

[Jason Banks]

It looked like Summit had all the parts in stock. If you have to settle for a different trans crossmember, the only difference is the thickness of the spacer. 4L80E uses 1 inch according to their chart. I made mine out of 1 inch aluminum.

You are correct about the powdercoating being trash. It will chip off of every laser cut edge of the parts. I Knocked the edges off everywhere I could, sanded, epoxy primered, and painted.