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#1 |
Still Green but learning
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Central NC
Posts: 1,895
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Mechanical Fuel Pump Swap question
So I am still getting junk in my fuel filter so I ordered lines and a fuel pump. I finally figured out how to change the pump but not sure I got the pin in the right spot. Here is what happened.
I put the plate and plate gasket on with the little screws, I had the rod held up in the block using one of the bolts through the front of the housing. Once I got the pump in place I screwed down the remaining bolt till it was attached on one side but snugged. Then I Pulled the bolt out of the front of the housing and got it in place. This is where things went a little off the rails. in trying to get everything lined up the pump moved out a little bit (about a quarter inch)... after wrestling around to get everything lined up etc.. I finally got everything snugged down. My question is when the pump moved out the quarter inch was that enough for the rod to slide into the wrong place? Is there a way I can tell? Or do I just wait till I try to crank it and when I am not getting gas that's when I know I have to redo the install?? Thanks all
__________________
-- Cory 71 Cheyenne 10 - SWB, 350, "3 on the tree" AC cab 07 Suburban LTZ 4x4 2010 Acura TL 98 Mastercraft "FrankenStar" 225 27253 UPS/USPS IIOY....nope never was |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Arlington, TN
Posts: 170
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Re: Mechanical Fuel Pump Swap question
It was probably just the spring in the pump pushing out. It will pump a little if you roll the engine over by hand. I would bet you are ok.
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#3 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Waterford California
Posts: 2,527
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Re: Mechanical Fuel Pump Swap question
The SBC has a tapped hole on the front of the block right down at the fuel pump boss, you install a bolt that's too long just snug to press and hold the fuel pump rod in place, once you have it in place and all the bolts started you pull that bolt (don't forget or you'll score the pump rod) and install a real short one that won't reach the fuel pump rod, then finish drawing up the fuel pump.
Be sure and put some silicon on that short bolt under side to keep it from leaking oil |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Glendale, AZ
Posts: 3,178
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Re: Mechanical Fuel Pump Swap question
I think you are fine. Sounds about what happen on my install
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#5 |
Still Green but learning
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Central NC
Posts: 1,895
|
Re: Mechanical Fuel Pump Swap question
Thanks guys, yes I used the bolt trick but didn't have an extra lying around so I used one of the ones holding the pump.
Hopefully I'm okay. But it's okay to try to crank the engine I think right? Cuz if the rod is below the knuckle of the pump then it won't be high enough to get hit by whatever cam is turning so I don't think it should hurt anything. I'll update for future reference but I think I'm okay to try it.
__________________
-- Cory 71 Cheyenne 10 - SWB, 350, "3 on the tree" AC cab 07 Suburban LTZ 4x4 2010 Acura TL 98 Mastercraft "FrankenStar" 225 27253 UPS/USPS IIOY....nope never was |
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#6 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Waterford California
Posts: 2,527
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Re: Mechanical Fuel Pump Swap question
As long as you did not force anything other than compressing the spring loaded arm you should be fine.
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