01-02-2020, 08:56 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Lucasville,oh
Posts: 61
|
1968 cab
After removing the outer cowl, firewall and and dash of my 68 i have discovered that its pretty rotted from the bottom of windshield post on down on both sides clear to bottom of kick panels. What is a good price for a good solid cab. Just not sure this can be fixed. Any advice.
|
01-02-2020, 10:08 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: billings
Posts: 38
|
Re: 1968 cab
Don't give up! Looks like you have a ton of work into it already...
Easy for me to say I know |
01-02-2020, 10:29 PM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: canton ga
Posts: 12,724
|
Re: 1968 cab
Look up Member ATOG on here , he is in Ohio and can help you out .
|
01-03-2020, 12:23 AM | #4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Garden City, GA
Posts: 296
|
Re: 1968 cab
A lot of people will say "Find a better cab" and this will convince you to toss this cab. I will not say this because I have seen worse and this cab, as rough as it is, can be brought back to life. One of the great things about sheet metal work is the sense of pride and accomplishment you feel the first time you make a repair - and it doesn't look like a scab over a gunshot wound.
So lets assess the situation as it exists. You asked for advice. I do not know you. That being said, you may have magic hands and a hammer assortment that is second to none. In looking at your pics, I see a relatively clean work area, a lincoln welder, and a cab that is lacking. No more, no less. What is missing is any form of welded bracing or fixtures on a project that will never come out straight without them. For that reason alone, I recommend that you practice on this cab while searching for another. After all the cutting, fitting and welding is done you probably wont be able to align your doors or fit a windshield properly onto this cab And THAT is a lot of effort with no reward. I've been there. I've done that. I just turned sixty. Everything I know was learned by doing it the wrong way first, then fixing it. These trucks are everywhere. Seek out one that suits your skill level. That is the best advice I can give. It works with women or trucks. Whether it has tats or tires, it will require money and attention. Last edited by LockDoc; 01-03-2020 at 12:40 AM. Reason: Not compatible with family frendly policies. |
01-03-2020, 05:40 AM | #5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Garden City, GA
Posts: 296
|
Re: 1968 cab
i know where a really nice cab is, but have not spoken directly with the owner so i dont know his price. You need it more than I do. I will have him contact youASAP Maybe you can make a deal. watch your inbox for message
|
01-03-2020, 03:49 PM | #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Lucasville,oh
Posts: 61
|
Re: 1968 cab
This is not my first but 5th resto on old cars so yes i can do metal work, but, i'm just not sure about this one. Only paid 800 for a cab, front end and rolling chassis. The chassis is done. The more i removed the worse it got. The cab is braced at the doors and across from door to door and the doors align up for the most part and there is a brace up to the lower cowl. Its just the amount of rot and in the lower windshield pillers that have me concerned. Cab corners are one thing but not sure i'm up to task on this one. Just depends on what i can find. As you can tell the floor in new. Just wish the dash had been the first thing i removed
|
01-03-2020, 11:14 PM | #7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Bentonville, AR
Posts: 64
|
Re: 1968 cab
Looks like you’ve already put alot of work in your cab, personally I’d try to complete it. Check GMC Paul’s, He now sells the inner cowl panel. And metalfab has some pics on this site of the same repairs. https://gmcpauls.com/Newproducts.htm
Last summer, I removed my cowl and it was about as rusted as yours. Working on it part time, I’m about quarter way through the repairs. Blasted everything and got a stretcher and shrinker to make the windshield channel pieces for the dash / windshield corner areas. I didn’t cut out the whole left and right kick panels above the vents, going to welded some new metal in the rusted areas. Both complete panels would be difficult to find in decent condition. Wished someone made those parts. But I’ll end up buying a new cowl and firewall. Here’s a pic of what mine looked like after removing the cowl. |
01-04-2020, 12:10 PM | #8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Lucasville,oh
Posts: 61
|
Re: 1968 cab
After studying it more I just don't think i'm up to task on this one. The rot goes too far on to where the windshield post connects to the door post. Just afraid after it was all said and done i would be wasting my time and money. Just gonna have to find a better cab.
|
01-04-2020, 11:44 PM | #9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Munising,Mi
Posts: 360
|
Re: 1968 cab
Some times your way money and time ahead with a better cab. I found mine out of California $1000 + shipping . It replace a cab just like yours . It was well worth it for me .
The California cab still needed work , rockers and cab corners but nothing compared to what I had . Mine was similar to your rot wise . Hope you find what you need. |
01-06-2020, 12:44 PM | #10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Albuquerque NM
Posts: 7,862
|
Re: 1968 cab
if you can flatbed it out to NM I can get you a good cab for about 4-500.
__________________
1967custom |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|