Blazer steering woes

[Ryanz]

My mechanic's steering specialist is noting I have a lot of play in rear dif axles, which he feels can contribute to poor handling that I continue to have.

Has this helped anyone else?

He's recommending replacing spider gear, as well as putting a double steering shock on the front.

[SeventyOne]

Just one opinion: why would the rear axle spider gears affect the way the Blazer steers at all? It might affect your tire wear on turns if its acting like a locker but....nah i dont really buy that one.

As for the steering stabilizer - I'd rather you spend money on new tie-rod ends, rag joint coupler, and maybe a new steering box if yours is old and worn out.

The steering stabilizer shocks CAN help but to me if you have worn out components you're just band-aiding the real problem.

Also make sure you have a proper alignment (read correct Toe-in).

all that said - what are your actual issues with the handling/steering on your blazer?

[Ryanz]

Thanks for this. I've had so many different guys/shops look at it and try to rectify. I've put 2 new steering boxes including the Redhead box. I've put new leafs, rag joint, the ball joints and tie rods are new. We just can't seem to stop it from wandering. It's not terrible, but not something my wife is comfortable driving, or that I'd allow my 16 year old to drive one day. You have to be aware of it and careful. I'm used to it so it's no big deal for me. Everyone blames the bigger tires. I'm running 33x12.5's with no lift. He is claiming the play in the diff can contribute to the back wheels steering the truck slightly.

[SeventyOne]

You didn't mention anything about alignment. What is your toe in setting? How are tires wearing? Might need more toe in...

How about suspension bushings with the new leaf springs?

33" tires are not that big and should offer you great tracking. Something else is the culprit here.

For the spider gears: are you hearing noise from the rear end? everything I just read about failing spider gears refers to clunking or grinding sounds and nothing was mentioned about handling issues.

[rsavage]

I suggest that you try some different tires with road tread or less aggressive tread pattern. Maybe you have a buddy that would let you bolt on his wheel and tires? You need to eliminate the tires as a cause of the catching and wandering. Are they aired up to specs?

[SeventyOne]

Rsavage has a good idea on something to try. What are the brand/tread type of the tires? When was the last time you rotated them?

[litebulblsc]

Worn spider gears can make it to where your axle shaft can slide in and out of the axle housing. If they are badly worn, replace them even with the knowledge it may not fix the wandering issue.

Should cost around $100 for the gears and easy enough to do in an open diff.

Hopefully the differential case is not to worn.

[paul mora]

I agree with the tires. The wider the tire the more it start tracking in a direction that require more effort to correct or move in a different direction. This is something most people get used to and don’t notice after a short time. Most people will this it is a worn part in the steering system . Someone different drive it and they are used to a Honda or similar car think something is wrong.

[SeventyOne]

Originally Posted by paul mora

I agree with the tires. The wider the tire the more it start tracking in a direction that require more effort to correct or move in a different direction. This is something most people get used to and don’t notice after a short time. Most people will this it is a worn part in the steering system . Someone different drive it and they are used to a Honda or similar car think something is wrong.

Perhaps - both my trucks have 37" tires and are very streetable. I also have a prius tough and don't find the trucks unmanageable or even difficult to handle. I'm not sold on just "big tires = bad handling".

[hemi43]

Here we go again with steering issues. LOL
CASTER, you need more CASTER !! Forget what these "specialists" think. They know how to align factory cars to factory specs, but as soon as something custom comes in, they are lost. Spider gears? Never heard that one before, LOL! Front stabilizer shocks do absolutely nothing unless you're off road, and even then all it does is prevent broken fingers from the steering wheel when bouncing off rocks.

The alignments can be done at home with a simple tape measure. With 12.5 X 33 tires you want around 6-7 degrees of caster and about 3/16 toe-in. The factory axles already have around 3 degrees of caster built in, so you're looking for a tapered spring shim with around 3-4 degrees. Pop those in, and then set your toe-in. Done!

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/djm-acc-4psk

[Ryanz]

I've shared this with them 3 times. For some reason they believe this will be very hard on tires and is not the right thing to do. Has anyone else done this?

Originally Posted by hemi43

Here we go again with steering issues. LOL
CASTER, you need more CASTER !! Forget what these "specialists" think. They know how to align factory cars to factory specs, but as soon as something custom comes in, they are lost. Spider gears? Never heard that one before, LOL! Front stabilizer shocks do absolutely nothing unless you're off road, and even then all it does is prevent broken fingers from the steering wheel when bouncing off rocks.

The alignments can be done at home with a simple tape measure. With 12.5 X 33 tires you want around 6-7 degrees of caster and about 3/16 toe-in. The factory axles already have around 3 degrees of caster built in, so you're looking for a tapered spring shim with around 3-4 degrees. Pop those in, and then set your toe-in. Done!

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/djm-acc-4psk

[Ryanz]

This is a good idea. I'll see what I can round up. I currently have Cooper Discovery R/T's on it.

Originally Posted by SeventyOne

Rsavage has a good idea on something to try. What are the brand/tread type of the tires? When was the last time you rotated them?

[Ryanz]

They said the alignment is off slightly because the tires are cupping on the inside.

Originally Posted by SeventyOne

You didn't mention anything about alignment. What is your toe in setting? How are tires wearing? Might need more toe in...

How about suspension bushings with the new leaf springs?

33" tires are not that big and should offer you great tracking. Something else is the culprit here.

For the spider gears: are you hearing noise from the rear end? everything I just read about failing spider gears refers to clunking or grinding sounds and nothing was mentioned about handling issues.

[Ryanz]

And yes - did the bushings when the leafs were changed.

Originally Posted by SeventyOne

You didn't mention anything about alignment. What is your toe in setting? How are tires wearing? Might need more toe in...

How about suspension bushings with the new leaf springs?

33" tires are not that big and should offer you great tracking. Something else is the culprit here.

For the spider gears: are you hearing noise from the rear end? everything I just read about failing spider gears refers to clunking or grinding sounds and nothing was mentioned about handling issues.

[hemi43]

Originally Posted by Ryanz

I've shared this with them 3 times. For some reason they believe this will be very hard on tires and is not the right thing to do. Has anyone else done this?

You are running a tire size that the front end geometry is not designed for. You need to ask yourself a question! Do you want your truck to go down the road nicely, or do you want to get 100000 miles out of a set of tires? You can't have both. Caster will increase a bit of tire wear but only when doing tight turns. I can live with that.
Wrong toe is the biggest destroyer of tires and camber comes in second. You can ask 10 people the same question and you will most likely get 10 different answers. The info I'm giving you is what works for me. I can drive my Blazer 75-80 MPH comfortably with my hands off the wheel, so these truck do handle well when properly setup.

[Ryanz]

Right on - I appreciate that!

Originally Posted by hemi43

You are running a tire size that the front end geometry is not designed for. You need to ask yourself a question! Do you want your truck to go down the road nicely, or do you want to get 100000 miles out of a set of tires? You can't have both. Caster will increase a bit of tire wear but only when doing tight turns. I can live with that.
Wrong toe is the biggest destroyer of tires and camber comes in second. You can ask 10 people the same question and you will most likely get 10 different answers. The info I'm giving you is what works for me. I can drive my Blazer 75-80 MPH comfortably with my hands off the wheel, so these truck do handle well when properly setup.

[Ryanz]

Steering is fixed! When they checked in on my spider gears they found my passenger side axle was warn significantly (mushroomed at the end) causing way to much play in my rear wheels. The other axle was much less warn but needed clip. The pin was also quite warn on passenger side so it was replaced.

He added the HD steering dampers as well. I haven't got to drive it yet as it's still in shop but he assures me it's 100% better.

[SeventyOne]

Originally Posted by Ryanz

Steering is fixed! When they checked in on my spider gears they found my passenger side axle was warn significantly (mushroomed at the end) causing way to much play in my rear wheels. The other axle was much less warn but needed clip. The pin was also quite warn on passenger side so it was replaced.

He added the HD steering dampers as well. I haven't got to drive it yet as it's still in shop but he assures me it's 100% better.

Interesting...glad its resolved!

[hemi43]

Originally Posted by Ryanz

Steering is fixed! When they checked in on my spider gears they found my passenger side axle was warn significantly (mushroomed at the end) causing way to much play in my rear wheels. The other axle was much less warn but needed clip. The pin was also quite warn on passenger side so it was replaced.

He added the HD steering dampers as well. I haven't got to drive it yet as it's still in shop but he assures me it's 100% better.

I guess we learn something new everyday. Thanks for letting us know, because I never would have thought that a rear diff could wear so much to cause steering issues.

[Ryanz]

To be clear, I don't think it was 'just' the play in the back axles. He said he drove it after without adding the steering shocks and it was still wandering some. The shocks have helped significantly according to him. I still haven't driven it. He said it still feels a bit floaty but isn't wandering. He want's to play more with the tow, etc.

Originally Posted by hemi43

I guess we learn something new everyday. Thanks for letting us know, because I never would have thought that a rear diff could wear so much to cause steering issues.

[Ryanz]

Update:

Finally got to drive it myself today after they changed the axel due to play in rear end, and added the double hd steering shock on the front end, alignment, etc. Not a lot changed other than the steering shocks took the play out of my steering. It still wanders and darts. This effing thing is driving me NUTS! Sincerely it does feel just like the steering box is what's letting it wander or feeling floaty, but I know it just can't be.

There are only 3 things left to try. The caster/camber shims, different tires, and another steering box, which would be the THIRD one I've tried. The latest I have on it is the Redhead that everyone recommended.

Hemi 43 has my ear! My goodness.

[hemi43]

Originally Posted by Ryanz

Update:

Finally got to drive it myself today after they changed the axel due to play in rear end, and added the double hd steering shock on the front end, alignment, etc. Not a lot changed other than the steering shocks took the play out of my steering. It still wanders and darts. This effing thing is driving me NUTS! Sincerely it does feel just like the steering box is what's letting it wander or feeling floaty, but I know it just can't be.

There are only 3 things left to try. The caster/camber shims, different tires, and another steering box, which would be the THIRD one I've tried. The latest I have on it is the Redhead that everyone recommended.

Hemi 43 has my ear! My goodness.

I feel for ya !! Too bad you're so far away or you could bring it to my shop.
Try the caster shim first, as I'm certain that will help, and doesn't cost a whole lot to do. The addition of a sway bar will help too. The sway bar helps to hold the front axle in location a bit better especially when the springs get a little soft.

[vintagerodshop]

It sounds like the shop just shot the parts cannon at it. The front end needs to be properly inspected and any worn components replaced. Then a alignment from a shop that actually knows how steering geometry works. Not a kid that is just following the prompts from the alignment machine.

Only fixing the problem will fix your problem.