Been a long road but it's running

[drink2mny]

So I haven't posted in a long time. I used to be regular on here and a forum moderator (don't hate). Military life got busy then I finally retired 3 years ago after 23 yrs in the USAF.

Had a friend talk me into installing a "gone through" 454. My 402 was tired and had no low end power...
Long story short--Installed 454, flattened cam, replaced cam, then bottom end knock and no oil to rockers.. Super happy... Motor was looked at but not gone through (learned after the fact). We aren't that close of friends anymore.

Decided to rebuild the original 402 with a roller setup.
Done and installed last weekend. Still tuning the little bugs out, but running strong.

Well that is the about it. Glad to be back on here looking for parts and information again.

[BigBird05]

Sorry you had to go thru that. I have the tee shirt. When I read of people buying new engines for there trucks the first thing that goes thru my mind is why don't they just get there old engine rebuilt. I understand up grading and thats OK.

[68Gold/white]

Welcome Back!!!

Thank You for your service to our wonderful country

Sorry, also, for your experience.
Seems like there's 10,000 folks that know all about engines, and TALKS like they do. Only one of them is the real deal...

My engine builder had some life changing experiences, then moved further away. Now no longer works on common automobile engines. It's difficult to find someone that does just plain old fashioned legit machine work. ANother friend was telling me about a new machine shop in town where my engine guy used to live. Told me about all the shops new machines and services they perform. I told him I was more concerned about the person doing the work, than any thing else!!!

[weq92f]

.
Welcome back. The little 402 will push these trucks around just fine!

Care to give details about your top end?

-klb

[drink2mny]

Originally Posted by weq92f

.
Welcome back. The little 402 will push these trucks around just fine!

Care to give details about your top end?

-klb

Had a reputable local shop do the rebuild. Here what was done..
700r4 sits behind it with and 4 wheel disc helps stop it.

[weq92f]

Originally Posted by drink2mny

Had a reputable local shop do the rebuild. Here what was done..
700r4 sits behind it with and 4 wheel disc helps stop it.

Dang...that is very close to my setup. I've got the same roller cam w/#063 stock heads on a 9:1 bottom end. It is very strong up to about 5500.

Looks like your builder knew to stay away from the COMP lifters and put Howards in your motor. I didn't and have quite a bit of lifter noise as a result. I suspect yours is much quieter than mine.

I think you'll enjoy that combo.

-klb

[drink2mny]

Originally Posted by weq92f

Dang...that is very close to my setup. I've got the same roller cam w/#063 stock heads on a 9:1 bottom end. It is very strong up to about 5500.

Looks like your builder knew to stay away from the COMP lifters and put Howards in your motor. I didn't and have quite a bit of lifter noise as a result. I suspect yours is much quieter than mine.

I think you'll enjoy that combo.

-klb

Nice... I'm hoping to get her tuned in this weekend. I have a Holey Avenger 670 to bolt on and dial in.

[tim_mc]

First, congrats on retirement.

Nice build sheet! Smart move on the roller cam...old school block with much improved valvetrain. So now I know about COMP roller lifters being a little noisy...oh well, as long as they stay together.

[drink2mny]

And now slight disaster.. Went for a few pulls to adjust and tune and found oil dripping in the driveway. Wiped it down and put in some UV dye. Went for another drive and Found the leak from the galley plugs on the driver's side... The one under the motor mount bracket is leaking... Anyone ever change a bracket without removing the motor?

[tim_mc]

I've broken a motor mount or two in my youth and swapped them out without yanking the engine. You might be able to jack up the engine to relieve the weight on the mount enough to get the bolts out.

[BigBird05]

Before you put a wrench on it take to your builder. Its his motor if he is giving you any warranty. Once you touch it its your motor and the warranty is gone.

[drink2mny]

Originally Posted by BigBird05

Before you put a wrench on it take to your builder. Its his motor if he is giving you any warranty. Once you touch it its your motor and the warranty is gone.

I was reminded of this. I left them a message and will follow up Monday..

[68Gold/white]

That plug is an 1/8th inch pipe plug. What type of head does is have on it? A hex for a wrench, or a sunken hex for an allen wrench? can you get a wrench on it at all??? (check for tightness...)

[gmc684x4]

I would undo both motor mounts maby pop of the dist cap, pick up with a engine hoist if possible remove that side mount perch then should have enough room to get at that loose plug

Sweet looking engine

[drink2mny]

Originally Posted by gmc684x4

I would undo both motor mounts maby pop of the dist cap, pick up with a engine hoist if possible remove that side mount perch then should have enough room to get at that loose plug

Sweet looking engine

That;'s what I wanted to do. But I finally got a hold of the engine shop and they said bring it on by and they will take care of it.
It was a weird conversation. It started out like I could just tighten them up....
I was cool headed and asked about how the warranty works. Then shifted to bring it by the shop.

My luck with this stuff isn't what it used to be..

wait till I update you guys on how the 700r4 bell housing upper two mount bolt holes are cracked and the tranny is flexing causing the flexplate to rub...
Yeah... Super happy...

[drink2mny]

Well, had the engine shop fix the leak. No drips after a 30 min drive home.

I corrected a bad connection with the batt wire on the HEI. Installed a new HEI plug end.
It started to stumble on itself and I found the one that I had for ever had failed and was coming loose.

Now the main issue left is finding what is scraping or rubbing when I have the motor torqued (on the gas) and turning.
I get a what sounds to me as a metal to metal sound and cannot find where it is from.
I have climbed under and looked for cracks on the flywheel and any thing shiny from rubbing. I verified the "cracks" i thought where on the top of the bell housing where from scratches when trying to line up the bell housing to motor during install.

Everything is tight, not hitting starter.
I did step on the brake and gave it some throttle and found I might have a bad engine mount. You could hear a noise and see flex but no rubbing noise..
It is so weird. I've been racking my brain as to what could be flexing and rubbing.

[Lee H]

Fan blade on shroud?

[Boog]

Remove the flywheel dust cover and with the truck back on the floor try torqueing the engine up with the cover off. Inside you may find your scrape marks.

[drink2mny]

I have the dust pan off and could not see rubbing marks anywhere. We turned the flywheel over and tried to inspect that as much as we could.

I do know the mounts are bad. That was evident when I power braked to flex the motor and heard metal clang type sound.

It only happens when turning to the right and giving it a good goose of throttle.

No noise turning the left and goosing it. It really sounds like metal to metal sound.
We looked at the fan and shroud and no marks.

On going troubleshooting. I hope to change the mounts this weekend

[68Gold/white]

Make sure the starter drive in your starter, isn't loose. Somehow the drive CAN get loose from the arm the kicks it into the flex plate AND still function properly. Need starter off to check. Just pull on the starter drive gear or turn the starter on its end, If faulty the drive will drop into the starter nose...

Had this happen on a front wheel drive car...

[Boog]

The flexplate was rubbing the dust cover on mine and turned out the cover was bent in where it fits up behind the flexplate. Easy fix.
Can you be certain the scraping noise is coming from the engine?
I had one of the front disc brake tin shields scrape on the rotor only when moving and turning one direction. Easy fix.
Looking for simple causes and fixes for ya.

[drink2mny]

Well, After some multiple days on her. I have raise valve covers more with correct spacers (instead of doubling up gaskets), New motor mounts, Checked tranny and flexplate (never seen rubbing anywhere) and carrir bearing with u-joionts included.
Evrything tight as can be and went for a test drive..............Metal to metal clatter/sound under load straight, or slight turns.

Came back to shop and parked it for the night. I was pissed, no need to turn a wrench when pissed off..

Next morning, choke on with high isle I put it in reverse and BAM..... Same sound, this time I had by friend climb under and film if he could see anything.
The video isn't great, but waht we found was the flexplate, underload was hitting the edge of the mini starter bendix gear... WTH????? But, only under load.
https://youtu.be/RGiE5UyxfMM

[68Gold/white]

Check to see if the starter drive is free moving on the starter shaft. Some how the starter drive CAN be free moving inside the starter, on the shaft. Easy to check, just see if the drive can move around on the shaft, or if it stays put on the shaft, held in place like it should. A conventional starter has a fork that pivots from the solenoid plunger, other end attaches to the starter drive...

[gmc684x4]

That is good news getting your ride ironed out for a good cruise

Did you switch to a standard starter ?

[FRCvette]

Welcome back and thank you for your service. Glad you are getting to work on your truck.