#corona10truck - 77 C-10, pancaked crossmember - z'd frame etc etc etc

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by chevy3100truck

Z'ing the frame raises the steering and the suspension, but raising the steering the additional 1 1/4" was due to the crossmember pancake. The drag link was hitting the lower control arms at full droop.

I know some people seem to have success with a 1 1/2" crossmember drop and stock steering, but when I cycled everything through full travel I was having interference.

Gotcha. You raised the steering in addition to the amount it was raised w/the 'Z'.

[chevy3100truck]

The drivers side is a bit more of a headache......
With the frame contours I decided to simply chop out the section the steering box bolts to & raise it by 1 1/4". Of course this meant cutting out the drop that I had just completed on the drivers front as part of the frame Z.....



Then for test fitting......




And finally completed with frame bracing etc

[chevy3100truck]

And basically here's where it sits now.

1 1/2" Pancaked crossmember
2" frame "Z"
1" Stretched wheelbase
1/2" narrowed lower control arms
1/4" narrowed & 1/4" rearward upper ball joints
1 1/4" raised steering
1 coil chopped off the springs

Front is good enough now to roll around, but still needs steering (going to need to use a U-joint style steering shaft with 3 U-joints to clear the upper control arm). I'll probably take care of the rear suspension before I get to the steering, I'd like the chassis fab to be complete, then the cab repairs, then mock up a driveline etc.

[dv8customs]

Originally Posted by chevy3100truck

And basically here's where it sits now.



Front is good enough now to roll around, but still needs steering (going to need to use a U-joint style steering shaft with 3 U-joints to clear the upper control arm).

Another possible option is to use the dodger style flat arms that Michigan Metal works has.

http://michiganmetalworks.com/store/...&product_id=79

[tinydb84]

I missed the part about running it static for now. My initial plan was to do the Z and run the stock springs. I like the fab work. Whats the plan for the rear?

[chevy3100truck]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

I missed the part about running it static for now. My initial plan was to do the Z and run the stock springs. I like the fab work. Whats the plan for the rear?

Rear is going to stay as leafs for now. Step notch with an axle flip & relocated spring hangers (since I have to do some frame repairs around the hanger area anyhow, might as well relocated them for some added drop). Goal is about 6" drop front, 7" drop rear.

[chevy3100truck]

no turning back now lol

[focusedontheprize]

[chevy3100truck]

A bit more progress - welded in crossmembers across the step notch & boxed in the step notch



Then onto some frame rust issues.....







Basically it was the same on both sides, the passenger side wasn't rusted all the way through, but was pretty damn close, so it got the same treatment.

[chevy3100truck]

Since the truck is going to be static dropped on leafs for now, and the factory crossmember was trash (rusted through.....), I figured I'd relocate the front spring hangers to add to the drop.

Moving the front spring hangers up 3" gets a 1 1/2" drop, there will be drop shackles as well which lowers 1" & the flip kit



The truck is going to get a raised bed floor anyhow, so the new crossmember being higher doesn't affect anything. (The crossmember is bolted in now, so if I need to make changes later on it won't be difficult)

[chevy3100truck]

Temporarily put back together to see an approximate height & to make it rollable to get to other projects again.

Still need to get new bushings for the leafs, install the drop shackles in the back & make new shock mounts, then tear it apart and paint the pieces before bolting it back up with new hardware. It's going to need some shims on the diff for pinion angle as well I'm sure, but that won't be until it has a driveline in it.

[SCOTI]

Nice re-use of what it came with adjusted for the new stance.

[Low Elco]

I just bought a 78 SWB, and I'm toying with the idea of something similar in the front. What does the clearance look like at the core support with the Z? Specifically the support/radiator/efan/frame/steering box interface. This truck will be static, and I'm wondering, how much is too much? Half ton springs with a coil cut, 2 1/2 drop spindles, a pancake and a z, I wonder what that adds up to in the real world? Because at some point, the really low bagged guys are using the bags to get the frame off the ground, not so much "suspend" the truck, if you get my drift. I guess the question is, how much is too much, with a static drop. I dig your work. I'm considering the 49-52 tank for my behind the axle tank.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

I just bought a 78 SWB, and I'm toying with the idea of something similar in the front. What does the clearance look like at the core support with the Z? Specifically the support/radiator/efan/frame/steering box interface. This truck will be static, and I'm wondering, how much is too much? Half ton springs with a coil cut, 2 1/2 drop spindles, a pancake and a z, I wonder what that adds up to in the real world? Because at some point, the really low bagged guys are using the bags to get the frame off the ground, not so much "suspend" the truck, if you get my drift. I guess the question is, how much is too much, with a static drop. I dig your work. I'm considering the 49-52 tank for my behind the axle tank.

It takes 4" to get over large speed-bumps, turn-lane dividers (City Tiddys), & most concrete curbs. Most high-end rod-shops use that 4" marker as a max for static clearance under the vehicle for trouble-free driving.

My dually has 4-5" @ the rails/front x-member & I only worry about high-centering which happens a lot more when it's a 20' chassis (CC LWB).

Measure where you are now & use that 4" number as a benchmark for reference.

[Low Elco]

Back when I used to run really dropped trucks, We called it "beer can " clearance. If a Bud Light can laid on its side just touched the crossmember, that was about right. Of course, now we're discussing moving the crossmember up. So, you figure 4 ish with the standard parts, 5 1/2 with the crossmember, and a 2" z, you're at 7 1/2- 8, give or take. Just wondering where the line might be. Right now I'm a roller at stock height. This truck is getting completely stripped, just trying to figure how much I want to do while it's apart.

[chevy3100truck]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Back when I used to run really dropped trucks, We called it "beer can " clearance. If a Bud Light can laid on its side just touched the crossmember, that was about right. Of course, now we're discussing moving the crossmember up. So, you figure 4 ish with the standard parts, 5 1/2 with the crossmember, and a 2" z, you're at 7 1/2- 8, give or take. Just wondering where the line might be. Right now I'm a roller at stock height. This truck is getting completely stripped, just trying to figure how much I want to do while it's apart.

I'm just shooting for a 5 1/2"-6" front drop and an 8" rear drop for now. I'll see what it all looks like when it is put back together and adjust from there. I know I'm safe at the 6/8 range.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by chevy3100truck

I'm just shooting for a 5 1/2"-6" front drop and an 8" rear drop for now. I'll see what it all looks like when it is put back together and adjust from there. I know I'm safe at the 6/8 range.

That's my bet as well. A 6/8 drop is a great profile stance for the Squares but not enough ground clearance w/a typical static drop. Once you factor in the sectioned x-member & mild 'Z' mods you did that's an extra 3.5" of clearance vs the typical spindle/spring combo. Add some 2.5" spindles & you're @ your desired 6" front drop w/a stock length coil/shock combo for a very decent ride quality.

The way you re-engineered the rear mounting points gives you the easy flip kit drop number & then some but w/better shock angles. There is bed space sacrificed this way but even w/a typical 6-7" of rear static drop via flip kit you'd likely be banging on the c-notches & tapping the bed floor occasionally.

Eliminating that interference = better ride quality. I would gladly sacrifice 3-4" of cargo space for a no-interference ride quality.

Is this going to be a stepper or fleet?

[chevy3100truck]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

That's my bet as well. A 6/8 drop is a great profile stance for the Squares but not enough ground clearance w/a typical static drop. Once you factor in the sectioned x-member & mild 'Z' mods you did that's an extra 3.5" of clearance vs the typical spindle/spring combo. Add some 2.5" spindles & you're @ your desired 6" front drop w/a stock length coil/shock combo for a very decent ride quality.

The way you re-engineered the rear mounting points gives you the easy flip kit drop number & then some but w/better shock angles. There is bed space sacrificed this way but even w/a typical 6-7" of rear static drop via flip kit you'd likely be banging on the c-notches & tapping the bed floor occasionally.

Eliminating that interference = better ride quality. I would gladly sacrifice 3-4" of cargo space for a no-interference ride quality.

Is this going to be a stepper or fleet?

I think you're correct on the suspension situation, just trying to keep it somewhat comfortable, it's not going to set the world on fire for handling or performance, just a lowish truck static dropped.

The rear axle right now is sitting more or less at the same level as the old bumpstop without a box on the truck, or fuel tank etc etc, so even with a c-notch it probably would have hammered it occasionally, and I may end up putting a 4-link & air on this thing down the road, so figured I might as well step it (plus I had the 3/16" steel anyhow, so it was just a matter of cutting it out and welding it up - trying to keep this as low-buck as possible - I'm only into this thing for about $3200 Canadian right now)

I've got a fleetside box that's in decent condition, so that's going to go on it (needs a bit of repair, but not too bad). I'm not to concerned about losing a bit of cargo area on this truck, it probably won't end up with anything in the bed anyhow, but I'm sure someone will be annoyed when I cut up the mint box floor lol.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by chevy3100truck

I think you're correct on the suspension situation, just trying to keep it somewhat comfortable, it's not going to set the world on fire for handling or performance, just a lowish truck static dropped.

The rear axle right now is sitting more or less at the same level as the old bumpstop without a box on the truck, or fuel tank etc etc, so even with a c-notch it probably would have hammered it occasionally, and I may end up putting a 4-link & air on this thing down the road, so figured I might as well step it (plus I had the 3/16" steel anyhow, so it was just a matter of cutting it out and welding it up - trying to keep this as low-buck as possible - I'm only into this thing for about $3200 Canadian right now)

I've got a fleetside box that's in decent condition, so that's going to go on it (needs a bit of repair, but not too bad). I'm not to concerned about losing a bit of cargo area on this truck, it probably won't end up with anything in the bed anyhow, but I'm sure someone will be annoyed when I cut up the mint box floor lol.

If the short fleet floor is that nice/mint, cut up an old beat up floor & use the nice one above or build mounts to raise the entire mint floor.

[skyphix]

Thanks for posting the rocker and floor pictures. Never tackled that myself before and plan on doing it over this winter. Helpful to see it all cut out. Great project this year!

[evan]

Yes, I always like seeing somebody's approach to rust repair sequencing.

[Low Elco]

Thanks for the repair pics- hoping to do the same on Christmas break.

[chevy3100truck]

Back to finishing off the other side -

Floor is a bit uglier than the drivers side....Not by much though


rough cut out of floor


Replaced a section of the floor brace & added the new cab mount & floor support piece


Floor tacked in (outer rocker is cut out at this point & the new inner rocker is also tacked in)


Finished welding, primer, a bit of filler on the new rockers at the seams, seam sealer on all the floor welds & a bit of spray paint


and it's done, floors, cab mounts, inner & outer rockers replaced on both sides of the truck

[chevy3100truck]

And now the little blue S-10 gets to go on the single bay side of the garage for some upgrades before drag racing starts up again next year (my 14 year old son's truck)



My stuff will sorta sit until we get the new rear end & rear suspension in his S10 along with some wiring and other details we need to do. Then I'll probably get to the white step side for a bit and get it road ready for spring. Might start another thread for that one

[SRD art]

Any updates on this truck? I want to do the same process to my 77 Suburban and am curious how low the ride is after it's all back together. Thanks! -Ben