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07-08-2020, 02:56 PM | #1 |
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Double D joints
Got my steering shaft mocked up. but bolts to tighten on the DD shaft seem really long.
Wondering what other have done? I was thinking 3 different options... drilling through the DD shaft so their flush. would that compromise the integrity of the shaft? I can tighten them up cut them down and then put a tack weld on them. Find smaller bolts. Only problem I see is these seem to have a knurling @ the tip to grab the DD shaft. |
07-08-2020, 03:18 PM | #2 | |
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Location: Doodah Kansas
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Re: Double D joints
Quote:
cheaper u joints are set up for hollow DD shafts, where the proper installation is to drill through ONLY ONE SIDE of the hollow DD shaft so that the set screw goes through one side and tightens on the inside of the other side, giving a measure of safety if the lock nut comes loose and the shaft is in tension (meaning its hanging from its set screws) would otherwise fall out. with a solid DD shaft you can drill a pilot hole just slightly into the solid shaft and use shorter screws. or cut your longer ones, the knurling is less likely to be useful than tightening it completely and using the lock nut.
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07-08-2020, 04:34 PM | #3 |
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Re: Double D joints
Thanks, I am using a solid DD shaft so I’ll probably go the small pilot hole on one side
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07-09-2020, 12:08 AM | #4 |
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Re: Double D joints
For some reason those don't look like normal aftermarket automotive DD U joints.
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Founding member of the too many projects, too little time and money club. My ongoing truck projects: 48 Chev 3100 that will run a 292 Six. 71 GMC 2500 that is getting a Cad 500 transplant. 77 C 30 dualie, 454, 4 speed with a 10 foot flatbed and hoist. It does the heavy work and hauls the projects around. |
07-09-2020, 03:49 PM | #5 |
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Re: Double D joints
With a solid double D I drill all the way through and insert a bolt with a nyloc on the opposite side. That way I never have to worry about a set screw backing out.
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07-10-2020, 10:53 AM | #6 |
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Re: Double D joints
the long setscrews are there because the manufacturer did not know what application they were to be used for. That said, those are standard cup point set screws and you can find shorter ones at any good hardware store it is a good practice, to put them together as you have to mark the shaft where they make contact. Then take it apart drill a drill point or shallow hole which is enough to keep the shaft from pulling out, use either the jam nut provided or blue loctite the screws and proceed.
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07-16-2020, 10:24 AM | #7 |
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Re: Double D joints
The way I did it was the set screw that goes through the curved area, I just drill a little indent. The set screw that goes through the flat part, I drill through one outside wall only. All set screws I used blue locktite and a jam nut. My local hardware store had various sizes of these set screws because I actually needed to get longer ones to work on my column side
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07-16-2020, 04:44 PM | #8 |
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Re: Double D joints
ididit and borgeson and flaming river all dont recommend doing that, the nut wont come off, but the clearance in the u joint to the shaft and the clearances in the hole you drill to the bolt will all allow the shaft to wiggle just a little bit, minutely at first, eventually it will wear and wiggle more. drilling through one side if its a hollow shaft, or drilling a small detent if its a solid shaft, forces the tube to one side of the u joint and locks it in place, no wiggle. even without loctite the set screw wont loosen if you tighten the lock bolt.
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the mass of men live lives of quiet desperation if there is a problem, I can have it. new project WAYNE http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=844393 |
07-16-2020, 05:00 PM | #9 | |
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Re: Double D joints
Quote:
Obviously you have never actually tried the though-bolt method. I've NEVER had ANY detectable wiggle in any of my steering systems. "Eventually" it will wear? What, in 100,000 miles? Time to check and replace any worn steering components by then anyway. Which is worse: wiggle after ten years or a set screw coming completely loose? I've been building hot rods frame the frame-up for 50 years; I've tried securing steering systems both ways and I feel LOTS better knowing that I have no one-sided set screws in my system.
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1951 Chevy Panel Truck Last edited by MiraclePieCo; 07-16-2020 at 05:45 PM. |
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07-16-2020, 05:26 PM | #10 | |
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Re: Double D joints
ididit and borgeson and flaming river probably have more useful advice
here is the ididit where they talk specifically about using a through bolt Quote:
I have never been warned by the moderators for anything. Maybe they told you that to placate you?
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the mass of men live lives of quiet desperation if there is a problem, I can have it. new project WAYNE http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=844393 Last edited by joedoh; 07-16-2020 at 05:33 PM. |
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07-16-2020, 06:12 PM | #11 |
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Re: Double D joints
The video never addresses the MUCH MORE LIKELY POSSIBILITY of set screws backing out. Again, which has worse consequences: negligible wear between the two DD surfaces (your steering box will wear out before that ever happens) or a set screw coming loose? The former gives some slop in your steering, the latter you lose your steering entirely.
Quit giving bad advice? If you consider 5 decades of frame-up hotrod building experience bad advice I suppose. Beats the heck out of just assembling one S10 after another. After going to the through-bolt method I'll never go back to the insecurity of set screws.
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1951 Chevy Panel Truck Last edited by MiraclePieCo; 07-16-2020 at 06:22 PM. |
07-16-2020, 06:24 PM | #12 | |
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Re: Double D joints
Quote:
I have used borgeson u joints for decades, not just on s10 swaps, because being cheap on steering or brakes is a stupid way to die. never had a set screw back out when the lock nut is tightened. I dont use loctite. you can still disagree with the guys who make the parts if you want. and I guess I dont understand. your friend the builder considers the s10 swap as significantly more work than a (pre engineered also) MII. but it isnt when its convenient for you? either I am doing MUCH more work, in your own words, or I am not? I guess I am supposed to be.. insulted? I am not. I like the stuff I put together! but the long and the short is I dont mind if you think the s10 is the easy way out, hard way out, medium way out. I will keep building trucks, like I have been doing since the 90s, full frames here too. Its easy to judge someone by their actions with your intentions, people do it all the time. I just cant be bothered by it, I guess maybe get some of that attitude for yourself too. or dont!
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the mass of men live lives of quiet desperation if there is a problem, I can have it. new project WAYNE http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=844393 |
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07-16-2020, 08:08 PM | #13 | |
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Re: Double D joints
Ok, easy there fellas, joedoh and MiraclePie. Take a time out for a few
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07-16-2020, 10:32 PM | #14 |
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Re: Double D joints
BTW, since the moderators apparently did nothing the last time I filed a report on you, let's bring this out in the public forum. You have followed me around the forum leaving snide little passive-aggressive comments for quite awhile now - ever since I commented that, having built both platforms, I thought original frame with Mustang II was a much superior setup than S10 chassis swaps. Evidently you are so vested in doing repeated S10 conversions that you somehow interpreted that as a threat to your forum credibility and have been trying to undermine me ever since. I've seen high-number BMOFs (Big Man On Forum) before get swelled heads and try to dominate the comments. I'm on this forum for fun, I don't really need the personal affirmation but apparently you do. So no problem dude, we can all do everything your way and everyone can thank you when every truck on this forum all looks the same. See ya, you're blocked.
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07-17-2020, 11:24 AM | #15 | |
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Re: Double D joints
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