If you used a cherry picker (engine hoist) to remove your cab from your frame???

[68Gold/white]

If you used a cherry picker to remove your cab from the frame, by using a 2X10 or 2X12 (pieces of wood) and used the wood by lifting up on it with the hoist from the INSIDE of the cab...???

How did you utilize the hoist arm, attaching to the wood???

I plan to screw a piece of angle iron to the 2 X 10, to stiffen it, and to attach a nut or bolt to the angle iron...

My question is mostly how the end of the hoist arm attaches to the 2X10/angle iron assy???

It's easy to figure out how to remove the bed. I'm sure I can wrangle a way to make the same materials work to remove the cab.

Would be nice to see how others performed this task, maybe save me some time!!!

Thanks, in advance!!!

[Grumpy old man]

Remove the doors / seat / I used 2 - 2x6 drilled a hole thru both and 1 long 7/16 grade 8 bolt with washers , sandwiched the engine hoist between the boards , roll into the truck at the front of the door opening and lift . The cab is front heavy . Don't get under it . have a stand ready to drop it on .

[FRCvette]

I did just as Grumpy said. Worked like a charm.

[lousyflyer]

I have lifted a cab using four big eye bolts run through the cab mounting holes and 4 adjustable webbing cargo straps. took a bit of playing with the strap length, but it worked really well with two guys.

I actually did it out in the grass using two sheets of cheap plywood to roll the cherry picker wheels on. Lifted the cab and pushed the whole shebang over to the frame from the side. I never removed the bed of the truck or the engine/trans.

[seafoam68]

I left doors on. Used a 4x4 with notches cut on top for th he door frames to fit down in. Placed 4x4 on top of picker arm but cant remember how I attached it. You will need to place 4x4 near front of cab because firewall weight will make cab tilt forward. Did it myself, but I recomend having a friend to help.

[Getter-Done]

Ditto on what Grumpy said.















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[68Gold/white]

Thanks, all!!!

Here in next 2 weeks or so, I plan to swap the cab and bed off my 67 frame and install them on a 72 frame.

Hopefully I can take some pictures of my method...

[fb111ewo]

I made a simple jig out of 2x4's and braced in the middle. I drilled a 2" hole in the center and installed a 2" ball hitch on the top of my cherry picker arm. the lift jig fit right over the top and allowed the cab to be moved easily when I removed and installed it.

[TXgearhead67]

I built one similar to the others but used 2x3 rectangle tubing I had. Took the hook out of the picker and welded two ears on tubing to fit over picker arm. I clamped the back to the picker to keep it from pivoting. Works great and sturdy.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by fb111ewo

I made a simple jig out of 2x4's and braced in the middle. I drilled a 2" hole in the center and installed a 2" ball hitch on the top of my cherry picker arm. the lift jig fit right over the top and allowed the cab to be moved easily when I removed and installed it.

Nice job

Truck cab looks good

I am a Fan of Green trucks









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[FRCvette]

Here is how I built my jig. Watch 1 and 2

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-4qFgG9Mu0&t=137s

[68 C10 Driver]

Originally Posted by FRCvette

Here is how I built my jig. Watch 1 and 2

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-4qFgG9Mu0&t=137s

That's PaulkC10's video. He has a great series of videos as does Gibson63.

[FRCvette]

Originally Posted by 68 C10 Driver

That's PaulkC10's video. He has a great series of videos as does Gibson63.

Yep Paul has great videos. I have followed along with them all. Need to check Gibson63.

[Dr Jekyll]

I used the cab floor mounting locations and bolts. Four equal lengths of chain with a 2-3 inch long bolt and washers tieing them together at the hoisting location in the center of the cab. For the front cab, remove the body bushings and then downsize the washer, so it fits through the frame, and reinstall the nut. The rear cab, remove bushings and hardware and install a long (maybe four inch) bolt through the cage nut (downsized to fit through without threading) with washers and nut.

I had a 3 foot length of chain that I used to pull engines and thought if I had three more chains this length I could pull this cab by myself. It worked perfectly no jig, or hoisting by the roof. I’m not knocking that method it seems to work fine as well. I used the same chains to pull the bed too.

Here’s one of the chains 38”

[68Gold/white]

[QUOTE=Dr Jekyll;8851144]I used the cab floor mounting locations and bolts. Four equal lengths of chain with a 2-3 inch long bolt and washers tieing them together at the hoisting location in the center of the cab. For the front cab, remove the body bushings and then downsize the washer, so it fits through the frame, and reinstall the nut. The rear cab, remove bushings and hardware and install a long (maybe four inch) bolt through the cage nut (downsized to fit through without threading) with washers and nut.

I had a 3 foot length of chain that I used to pull engines and thought if I had three more chains this length I could pull this cab by myself. It worked perfectly no jig, or hoisting by the roof. I’m not knocking that method it seems to work fine as well. I used the same chains to pull the bed too.

Here’s one of the chains 38”

Attachment 2068227[/QUOT

Was the cab front heavy, as Grumpy mentioned, when you did this???

[Dr Jekyll]

Yes, but I was able to steady it with one hand. You could put some weights in the rear portion of the cab to balance it, but i didn’t. Next time I will. One thing it did was want to spin slightly because of how the hoisting hook attached to the bolt tieing the chains together. I used one hand to stabilize it while hoisting and moving. You will need to make sure it doesn’t spin to much and rub the hoisting arm against the door frame.

[fb111ewo]

Thanks, and it's coming together more quickly now. I plan on posting pictures when complete!

[68Gold/white]

Job well done. all!!!

I getting more ideas! Using the floor body mount holes sounds like a good one. THere'd be less need to get the hoist boom way high, limiting the upward movement of the boom. The floor holes would give a lot more potential up/down movement of the hoist boom...