Headlight Loose - Screw & Nut thing replacement

[Rich72C10]

My passenger side headlight is a bit loose, mainly on the top. The headlight can wiggles on the adjustment screw slot and then the nut thingy itself wiggles in the frame. Two wiggles equals a bit of play. I got some replacements and the best that I can tell the screw isn't going to help with the can wiggling.

As for the current nut installed, it is metal and the replacement is plastic. How do I go about getting the old one out?

What suggestions might you guys have on getting the headlight can tighter on the adjustment screw's slot?

[sick472]

What condition is the spring that holds the bucket firm? I'm guessing that it is still there. Without that, it would be very floppy. Can't help with the nut replacement, been too long since I looked at it.

[Rich72C10]

spring seems in good shape, unless the spring is suppose to keep all this wiggle at bay. I did actually buy new springs too. I bought enough for both side, not that the driver side is wiggling at all.

[MAC71Cheyenne]

Three small pan head screws attach the headlight retainer ring to the bucket. The two long adjustment screws, one on top, one on the side run through a tab and nylon retainer on the back side of the bucket. The singe spring on the side of the bucket should attach to the framework with some tension as it is the anchor for the adjusting screws to keep it all stable Make sure those tabs on the adjustment screws are not bent back and the ring retainer screws are actually into the bucket and fully seated.

[Rich72C10]

Thank you, I more or less get the theory behind it.

The nuts the long screws (adjusters) go on my 72 C10 are metal. When I had the light out last, I was checking the upper one on the passenger side and it was loose in the frame (slight 360-ish movement). Though I did not really see how it would pop out - last thing I want to do is do something silly tying to get it out and bend anything to make it even more sloppy for the new replacement (which is a nylon replacement).

For the headlight screw that sits on the headlight can, it also has back and forth play with the screw's slot.

Then on installing the new nylon replacement, I have read other threads where members can't get it popped in or its tabs break when trying to pop it in. Just looking for any words of wisdom :-)

[MAC71Cheyenne]

...could any of the three ring attachment tabs on the bucket be damaged or elongated, possible from over tightening? With the headlight itself securely inserted in the ring the face should be flush with the front lip of the ring, obviously...
The nylon retainers should with a bit of effort, pop snugly into the back of the bucket without breaking any of the retaining tabs. As long as they are not old and brittle. With new ones it can help if they are warmed up a bit with a hair dryer or such to make them more pliable.
I have also used a small file or emery board to take off a bit of the nylon on two opposing tab sides, just enough to pop in and stay. Once the screws are properly set into the retainer there is no slop and it's tight. The long aiming screws should have a grove near the head that slips into an open slot tab. On mine someone had way over tightened the screws at some point bending the tab out of shape so the screw would pop out and cause the assembly to be very "wobbly".

[Rich72C10]

Thank you for all of that MAC71Cheyenne! The tips on the nylon with heating it up a bit and the emory board - fabulous suggestions!

The Headlight Chrome ring is very tight/snug on the headlight to the can - no slop there at all.

Originally Posted by MAC71Cheyenne

The long aiming screws should have a grove near the head that slips into an open slot tab. On mine someone had way over tightened the screws at some point bending the tab out of shape so the screw would pop out and cause the assembly to be very "wobbly".

For the slop that is in the adjusters screw head slot, I am thinking this is the likely issue. I think I should get a new one of these from GMC Paul's.

The only open question is - how to I get the metal nut that the aiming screw is going in... without damaging where the new nylon is going to pop into.

[MAC71Cheyenne]

Of that I'm not sure Rich. Anyway you could get a pic of that? Kind of difficult I know. I just have the nylon on mine, '71
Maybe pair of channel locks n snap it off?, drill it out?
Anybody with some experience with this like to tap in?

[Rich72C10]

Here's a photo, should have done that way back on my 1st posting - silly me.

So this nut wiggles all directions and the adjustment screw wiggles on the headlight can. So all those wiggles = more play in the headlight than what I think it should.

[Andy4639]

I looked in my 2 service manuals and both show the head light but give no instructions on how to adjust are fix the lights!
That's odd.

[MAC71Cheyenne]

I think that the first attempt to remedy this, as long as the nut threads are good... would to be clean the area around the nut good and then try using Steel Stick epoxy to secure the steel nut. It should be plenty strong upon curing to hold things tight and last. If that doesn't work a razor saw or snap it off and replace it.

[Rich72C10]

yes, I looked at mine too - no help from chevy. A interesting thing, 69~72 have a Left and Right headlight cans. Which I just found out on GMC Paul's site (67-68 Left or Right & 69-72 Left Chevrolet Headlight Housing Bucket). Wonder why they change that from 69s...

When I first upgraded my LED Headlights from Dapper Lighting they were all messed up pointing wrong. Then I found I had to swap the cans, my guess when the truck was restore they put them on reversed! For the record, the headlamp was loose before I did the upgrade - so I did not f**k something up LOL

[Rich72C10]

Originally Posted by MAC71Cheyenne

I think that the first attempt to remedy this, as long as the nut threads are good... would to be clean the area around the nut good and then try using Steel Stick epoxy to secure the steel nut. It should be plenty strong upon curing to hold things tight and last. If that doesn't work a razor saw or snap it off and replace it.

That is a interesting idea... haven't used Steel Sticky epoxy before (or actually heard of it). I'll look that stuff up - thank you for that suggestion!


Edit: Ohhh J-B Weld stuff!

Though I am not sure I'd ever drink anything that had J-B Weld on it LOL

J-B WELD SteelStick 2-fl oz Gray Steel Epoxy Construction Adhesive

• Sets in 3-5 minutes
• Can be drilled, tapped and filed
• Drinking water safe

[Andy4639]

Once you remove the light and back out the adjustment screw the metal nut should come out farly easy with a screw driver to pry it out. You may want to take the metal that it fits in and tap it to get it tight when you put the plastic keeper back in. But most times they are just a bit bigger anyway and should fit good and tight. The ring on the head light has the cut out for the screw head. You may want to manipulate it to close up and be tighter also around the head.

[Rich72C10]

When I went to O'Riley's to recycle my oil from my change this morning, I picked up one of their little kits that has a telescoping mirror. For the record, this is what it looks like from behind.

[Andy4639]

Yea like a tag nut!

[MAC71Cheyenne]

The manuals don't really cover this at all. I haven't anything to compare the '71 with but having the tension spring on the outside towards the fender I believe is the difference. Changed a lot of headlight at the station but that was 40+ years ago and never paid any attention to the different setups.
For some reason someone put motorcycle headlights in mine at some point, Adjune? Less than ideal... Trying out the Sylvania Silverstar this round. Didn't want to mess with the whole led thing. I did look up the post about upgrading to adding relays for the headlights and did this. Seen a lot of burnt up headlight switches and a couple fires. There is a lot of juice running through the switch and lightening the load made good sense.
Several posts on the net detail aiming these things. About all you really need is a wall or garage door, 30 feet or so of space, masking tape, a measuring tape, and 30 minutes. Badaboom yer done. You can see the road and not blind others.
So far I have had good luck with the JB Weld stick epoxy. Used it to fill in cracks on a steering wheel I have yet to install. Turned out damn nice and have about 50$ into it.

[Andy4639]

I bought a adjuster some time back. I need to get it out again and adjust the 64 Impala lights and the ramp truck. I did the lights on my 71.
Here is the thread when I was buying it and reading up on it.


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=429063

[Rich72C10]

I so want one of those adjuster things. I been going out to the place where we have storage. One of the the units has 20+ feet in front of its door and I do as best as I can (not actually level but not bad). I am pretty sure I am dialed in low but I rather be a bit low than high with these Dapper LED headlamps.

[MAC71Cheyenne]

Good deal Andy n Rich!

[BigBird05]

I don't think that the nut and license plate nut are original. I have only seen the long plastic ones that snap in place.

[firedemon]

https://www.classicparts.com/1968-78...ctinfo/48-434/

[Rich72C10]

Thx - I have replacements from GMCPaul’s :-)

[Rich72C10]

Well, got to my headlights today. The inserts were not metal, they were painted a gray color. They popped or rather broke right out!

Passenger side all done and is snug as a bug in a rug! The driver side, well one of the part's bags was missing the plastic insert ....ugh. So I am going to try a Dorman Headlight Adjusting Screw MTM 42117 from O'Riley's. The parts I actually bought from LMC and not GMCPaul's, serves me right.

Now the old hardware between the two headlights was a smorgasborg of parts. Different length screws and different springs between the two sides. The passenger side was a bigger and stretched out spring - no wonder I had so much slop on that side! Even the driver side spring was not like the replacements.