2wd swap

[KQQL IT]

Looked at a few Z ing threads. Not feeling that at all.
My 17 year old got this pos jimmy and a tig welder.
So the possibilities are endless.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

Looked at a few Z ing threads. Not feeling that at all.
My 17 year old got this pos jimmy and a tig welder.
So the possibilities are endless.

Understandable. Some people won't cut a frame. I wouldn't either if it couldn't be done w/o retaining full strength.

[KQQL IT]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Understandable. Some people won't cut a frame. I wouldn't either if it couldn't be done w/o retaining full strength.

That isn't my issue with the Z my 68 was cut and stretched in like 74 I'm told.

Frame would need cut twice.
The z and then the core support.
Plus the engine mounts are all different.

Pass

Mild section drop spindles
Move the lower arms forward will achieve the look I'm after.

Appreciate the info.


This low low stuff is new territory
Always been a clip 2 coils and a flip it on all my C-10s

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

That isn't my issue with the Z my 68 was cut and stretched in like 74 I'm told.

Frame would need cut twice.
The z and then the core support.
Plus the engine mounts are all different.

Pass

Mild section drop spindles
Move the lower arms forward will achieve the look I'm after.

Appreciate the info.


This low low stuff is new territory
Always been a clip 2 coils and a flip it on all my C-10s

Ok. Only moving the lower arms forward helps w/improving caster. That's different vs moving the entire x-member which changes upper a-arm/lower a-arm/spindle hub centers together.
Moving the entire x-member forward starts encroaching on the steering box/Pitman & Idler mounting centerlines.

My dually has 3" spindles, a 1.5" sectioned x-member, & PB tubular 1" forward lower arms w/bags. Previously it used .750" forward GM a-arms w/coils (1 coil removed).

[KQQL IT]

I wasn't sure about the x member or the A arms.
Just want to avoid the wheels back look.

With the 1.5 section you did. Was the steering input shaft into the left upper arm.
Looks like they might hit.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

I wasn't sure about the x member or the A arms.
Just want to avoid the wheels back look.

With the 1.5 section you did. Was the steering input shaft into the left upper arm.
Looks like they might hit.

Yes, they will interfere @ the front pivot/bushing. The bushing barrel OD for the later arms & aftermarket arms is too large (even Michigan Metalworks 'Dodger' series arms wouldn't clear).

The driver side upper from a 63-72 or 73-87 HD truck will clear w/a small c-notch. The HD bushings have a smaller footprint/OD & will clear but the a-arms front 'leg' still gets close when cycling through suspension travel. A small notch allows the required clearance.

Another option is to use a multi joint shaft assembly to clear. It would require a center bearing support. I did the notched x-member/notched HD bushing arm approach on mine as it's a cleaner look w/minimal extras (& recommended them to the people I sold notched x-members to).

[KQQL IT]

We start cutting this weekend..
Can't wait to watch my son learn this stuff. He's more into the fabrication part than then the truck