69 Fuel Lines

[lkt1954]

I'm building a 69 GMC short wide bed truck with a 350 and sniper EFI.
Also I'm relocating the fuel tank to the frame in the rear.
My question is what year model fuel lines to run from the front to rear?
I would prefer to stay with OEM lines if possible.

Thanks

[BigBird05]

When I moved my tank to the rear I just made my own lines. Since your running fuel inj, your going to need a larger fuel line then stock plus a larger return line.

[lkt1954]

I was thinking more along the line of using pre-bent lines from a year model that had a rear tank and changing out the fittings.
Holley says in need a 3/8" line for both.
Would 2 fuel lines (3/8") for a 72 model work?

Thanks

[lkt1954]

Bump

[Jason Banks]

If you must use pre-bent lines. I would say your best bet it to call Inline Tube and see if they can offer any help.

For my LS Swap with Boyds tank. I made my own lines using 3/8 aluminum tubing from Summit:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g2538

Fairly inexpensive for the tubing, but the AN fittings and hoses, probably added another $100

The aluminum tubing is so much easier than even the Nickle Copper. With the aluminum you can basically manipulate it with no tools. I did use a bender for some areas where I wanted a 90.

I used these clamps to attach the tubing inside the frame rail:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nth-1616-6

I basically cut the 25ft roll in half and got both pieces fished into the frame rail. Started at the back where the tank is and put 2 clamps, then just worked my way to the front installing clamps in a uniform fashion.

[lkt1954]

Thanks. Inline tube suggested the same thing- build your own.

[gt40racing]

Originally Posted by Jason Banks

If you must use pre-bent lines. I would say your best bet it to call Inline Tube and see if they can offer any help.

For my LS Swap with Boyds tank. I made my own lines using 3/8 aluminum tubing from Summit:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g2538

Fairly inexpensive for the tubing, but the AN fittings and hoses, probably added another $100

The aluminum tubing is so much easier than even the Nickle Copper. With the aluminum you can basically manipulate it with no tools. I did use a bender for some areas where I wanted a 90.

I used these clamps to attach the tubing inside the frame rail:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nth-1616-6

I basically cut the 25ft roll in half and got both pieces fished into the frame rail. Started at the back where the tank is and put 2 clamps, then just worked my way to the front installing clamps in a uniform fashion.

What fittings did you use on the aluminum lines? I think I will try this on my 69.

[Jason Banks]

I used these to attach to the tubing:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-2200075b
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-2200077b

Using the above will not require a 37° flaring tool, which is not common.

I bought a flaring tool for some reason, thinking I was going to use the tube nut/sleeve combo like these:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220633-2b
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220634-2b

With the tube nut and sleeve, you put the nut then sleeve on the tube and flare the tubing and you can then connect to a male AN fitting.

[gt40racing]

Thank You!!

[gt40racing]

Originally Posted by Jason Banks

I used these to attach to the tubing:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-2200075b
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-2200077b

Using the above will not require a 37° flaring tool, which is not common.

I bought a flaring tool for some reason, thinking I was going to use the tube nut/sleeve combo like these:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220633-2b
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220634-2b

With the tube nut and sleeve, you put the nut then sleeve on the tube and flare the tubing and you can then connect to a male AN fitting.

I picked up a Rigid 37° flaring tool when I was working on my F-1. Great tool for this application.