Unbelievable, bracket rivets broke - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

72dually · 07-15-2004, 02:28 PM

Im in the process of changing the 4.10 rearend in my 3/4 ton to a 3.54 I found in the boneyard yesterday, and I start to remove bracketry, and I notice the right shock mount to the frame has completely seperated, those big rivets have popped the heads off, and the front sway bar has 1 missing as well. I guess I'll just pop them out and replace with some grade 8 nut/bolt

Robert1970C20rstbukt · 07-15-2004, 06:20 PM

That'll happen if they get rusty enough, or if there's a lot of stress on 'em.

cdowns · 07-15-2004, 06:45 PM

that's why they call them old

MOTHERTRUCKERS · 07-15-2004, 07:22 PM

I have the correct frame rivets if interested and can make you a tool to install them if you have a torch. Rivets 1.00 each, tool 30.00.

crazy longhorn · 07-15-2004, 09:05 PM

A buck ea on the rivets & 30 on the tool....$36 is cheap on both sides

I have 7/16 grade 8 bolts /pinch lock nuts on mine....shocks were moved back to stand em up after the drop. If you run grade 8 bolts, drill so they fit tight in the hole.... crazyL

Fred T · 07-15-2004, 10:09 PM

Grade 8s are okay, but overkill by a long shot. Shear strength on the steel rivets is close to a grade 2. I use grade 5 to replace rivets. And, yes, the hole needs to be a tight fit. I also don't mess with lock washers on those locations, red loctite works better.

crazy longhorn · 07-15-2004, 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fred T

Grade 8s are okay, but overkill by a long shot. Shear strength on the steel rivets is close to a grade 2. I use grade 5 to replace rivets. And, yes, the hole needs to be a tight fit. I also don't mess with lock washers on those locations, red loctite works better.

Agreed, locktite or pinchloc nuts.....lock washers are "tabu" on that stuff

crazyL

*1972C10* · 07-15-2004, 10:19 PM

I use metric bolts to put back in place of rivets I have found some that fit the hole when i put a front swaybar on 3/8 was too small for the hole and 7/16 was too big so i got a metric bolt and nut . I used some of those locking nuts

72dually · 07-15-2004, 10:34 PM

Thanks guy's, I got some grade 8 serrated flange bolts with 10mm nyloc nuts, fit perfectly and cost me about $3 at the local home depot

**kwmech** · 07-15-2004, 11:42 PM

I always touch the holes with a 'stepped drill' bit to get the holes round which ends up at 7/16. Grade 8 fine thread with grade 8 flat washers and a pinch nut.

07-15-2004, 02:28 PM	#1
72dually Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Northern Arizona Posts: 687	Unbelievable, bracket rivets broke Im in the process of changing the 4.10 rearend in my 3/4 ton to a 3.54 I found in the boneyard yesterday, and I start to remove bracketry, and I notice the right shock mount to the frame has completely seperated, those big rivets have popped the heads off, and the front sway bar has 1 missing as well. I guess I'll just pop them out and replace with some grade 8 nut/bolt

07-15-2004, 06:20 PM	#2
Robert1970C20rstbukt Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Beeville, Texas Posts: 1,943	That'll happen if they get rusty enough, or if there's a lot of stress on 'em. __________________ RJD 1984 Chevrolet C30 welding truck 454/SM465 1977 GMC C15 pickup 350/TH350 1970 Chevrolet C20 pickup 350/TH400 1970 Chevrolet K20 Suburban 454/TH350 1969 GMC 8500 478M V6/5 spd winch truck

07-15-2004, 06:45 PM	#3
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	that's why they call them old __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

07-15-2004, 07:22 PM	#4
MOTHERTRUCKERS Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: BRADENTON FLA Posts: 3,269	I have the correct frame rivets if interested and can make you a tool to install them if you have a torch. Rivets 1.00 each, tool 30.00. __________________ Rest in Peace Ed. Thanks for all the good times.

07-15-2004, 09:05 PM	#5
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,402	A buck ea on the rivets & 30 on the tool....$36 is cheap on both sides I have 7/16 grade 8 bolts /pinch lock nuts on mine....shocks were moved back to stand em up after the drop. If you run grade 8 bolts, drill so they fit tight in the hole.... crazyL __________________ 69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears....

07-15-2004, 10:09 PM	#6
Fred T Cantankerous Geezer Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Bel Aire, KS Posts: 6,264	Grade 8s are okay, but overkill by a long shot. Shear strength on the steel rivets is close to a grade 2. I use grade 5 to replace rivets. And, yes, the hole needs to be a tight fit. I also don't mess with lock washers on those locations, red loctite works better. __________________ Fred There is no such thing as too much cam...just not enough engine.

07-15-2004, 10:19 PM	#8
1972C10 Account Suspended Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Texas Posts: 2,686	I use metric bolts to put back in place of rivets I have found some that fit the hole when i put a front swaybar on 3/8 was too small for the hole and 7/16 was too big so i got a metric bolt and nut . I used some of those locking nuts

07-15-2004, 10:34 PM	#9
72dually Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Northern Arizona Posts: 687	Thanks guy's, I got some grade 8 serrated flange bolts with 10mm nyloc nuts, fit perfectly and cost me about $3 at the local home depot

07-15-2004, 11:42 PM	#10
kwmech Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Colfax-California Posts: 8,602	I always touch the holes with a 'stepped drill' bit to get the holes round which ends up at 7/16. Grade 8 fine thread with grade 8 flat washers and a pinch nut.

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