Which SBC headers have good ground clearance?

[EARNHARDT#3]

I am swapping my 6 out for a 350. I am trying to figure out which long tube headers have good ground clearance. I can not stand when you can see the exhaust system hanging down where you can see it.

[jimijam00]

Mid-length headers will get it done, but won't you still see the midpipes running below the middle of the truck?

[EARNHARDT#3]

Originally Posted by jimijam00

Mid-lenth headers will get it done, but won't you still see the midpipes running below the middle of the truck?

Not really it should be able to tuck up and just need to dip below the cross member.

[Mike C]

With the motor in the 6 cylinder position I would be looking at 4x4 headers.

[EARNHARDT#3]

Originally Posted by Mike C

With the motor in the 6 cylinder position I would be looking at 4x4 headers.

I guess that isn't a bad idea. I am mainly looking to hear an exact suggestion from someone so I have little to no doubt.

[pjmoreland]

The reviews of headers on Summit Racing are a good resource to use when looking for headers. You can usually find someone with a similar truck who has written a review for any given style of header. If no review is available, then look at the same header but in a different material or finish treatment. Fitment issues I've seen on there with various headers are:

1) Interference with the frame rails

2) interference with an engine mount stand

3) Interference with lower control arm grease fitting

4) Interference with transmission bell housing

5) Starter heat soak problems from being too close to the starter

6) Manual clutch linkage Interference

It will likely be difficult or impossible to find a set of headers that doesn't have at least one or two of these issues, so modifications will probably be required.

[EARNHARDT#3]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

The reviews of headers on Summit Racing are a good resource to use when looking for headers. You can usually find someone with a similar truck who has written a review for any given style of header. If no review is available, then look at the same header but in a different material or finish treatment. Fitment issues I've seen on there with various headers are:

1) Interference with the frame rails

2) interference with an engine mount stand

3) Interference with lower control arm grease fitting

4) Interference with transmission bell housing

5) Starter heat soak problems from being too close to the starter

6) Manual clutch linkage Interference

It will likely be difficult or impossible to find a set of headers that doesn't have at least one or two of these issues, so modifications will probably be required.

You make a lot of great points there. And the reviews on Summit are exactly what I have been looking over.

[Big Kev-O]

Doug's Tyi-Y D372Y are probably the best option but they are expensive ans sold out most places. Check out post #25 in this thread.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=272768

Few more options discussed in this thread:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=709723

[Southcity]

Mid length (3/4) or shorty block hugger headers are an excellent option, not only for under hood clearance but to keep the collector hidden above the frame rails. A center dump header will provide clearance for starter, manual clutch linkage, motor mounts etc. Not all headers are created equal, ideally you want a header with a thick flange to avoid warping/sealing issues and a ceramic coating to help reduce under hood temps/heat soak, this also helps with efficient exhaust scavenging. If you really want the exhaust to be hidden and tucked up between the frame rails, using the cross-member cutout's is a must. I did exactly this on my most recent exhaust system. Please note that I have a big block but small block headers are available from the vendor mentioned, below is what I used:

1. Sanderson 3/4 length ceramic coated headers (patented leak-free flange design)
https://www.sandersonheaders.com/san...ategory_id=550
2. Cross member exhaust cutouts
https://www.brotherstrucks.com/1963-...tinfo/ECOB072/

My entire exhaust system is completely hidden including the headers/collectors all the way to the the tips which barley peek out the back under the rear bumper.

Sanderson headers for small block:
https://www.sandersonheaders.com/cla...ck_265-400-10/

[jimijam00]

Most guys that install and leave them on don't need to buy into the typical flange marketing and benchracer hype. This really comes into play when removing and reinstalling. The more times you do that, the more likely you'll have leaks or reinstall problems with those spaghetti flanges on the cheap eBay headers. Keep in mind, you can buy 4-6 sets of Summit Racing branded headers for the price of one of the "best headers". The actual power performance between them will likely only show on a dyno, and usually in the part of the powerband most people never drive in on the street.

Most coatings looks pretty, but the minimual decrease of underhood temps of those coatings comes at a steep price. One could lower heat under her hood by a few ventilation tricks and have more money for beer.

If I was determined to do a coating that would actually show a noticible improvement in temps, I would skip all the rest and send my uncoated headers to Swaintech and pay for their White Lightning coating.

[EARNHARDT#3]

Originally Posted by jimijam00

Most guys that install and leave them on don't need to buy into the typical flange marketing and benchracer hype. This really comes into play when removing and reinstalling. The more times you do that, the more likely you'll have leaks or reinstall problems with those spaghetti flanges on the cheap eBay headers. Keep in mind, you can buy 4-6 sets of Summit Racing branded headers for the price of one of the "best headers". The actual power performance between them will likely only show on a dyno, and usually in the part of the powerband most people never drive in on the street.

Most coatings looks pretty, but the minimual decrease of underhood temps of those coatings comes at a steep price. One could lower heat under her hood by a few ventilation tricks and have more money for beer.

If I was determined to do a coating that would actually show a noticible improvement in temps, I would skip all the rest and send my uncoated headers to Swaintech and pay for their White Lightning coating.

Thanks. But that’s got nothing to do with my question 😬

[jimijam00]

My response to this public thread wasn't just for you. Feel free to unread it.

[EARNHARDT#3]

Originally Posted by jimijam00

My response to this public thread wasn't just for you. Feel free to unread it.

I thought maybe you misread the post. Didn’t mean to upset you.

[Mike C]

The 4 wheel drive headers are setup to be above the bottom of the frame rail unlike the 2 wheel drive that are below. They are VERY similar to 63-82 Corvette headers which would probably work once again with the motor in the 6 cylinder position.

[67ChevroletDude]

I have the hedman 68460 on my 350 that's in the 6 position, both exhaust pipes from the collector were angled upwards to go above my tranny mount and you can barely see the collectors and cant see the entire exhaust system(ran it through the crossmember). Here is a thread with them, I didn't have any of the issues they had with the exception of smacking the #1 pipe because it rested on the motor mount.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=704512

[gmc684x4]

I have had zero issues with my headman headers i had on my 68 k10 my dads hooker headers fit great on his 72k10
I will probably put the headman on my 72 c20 after i get it going

[Bad70sbchevy]

If you want to have the headers fit nicely between the framerails I think chevelle headers will be the way to go. I'm thinking about running them later, but here is a thread about more specifics and links:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=727321