Sripped Hood hinge captured nut?

[purple gas]

So drivers side rear nut that the hood hinge bolt goes into is stipped.
Somewhere along the way after the threads stipped someone tack welded the hinge to the hood near that bolt location. Now that hinge is pretty worn and tweaked.
I've got a good set of spare hinges, otherwise the hood is pretty much mint.
should I re-tap for a larger diameter bolt? ( not sure if a larger bolt would fit through the hinge ).
Can I install a helicoil? Guy at the garage across the alley said they need a hole with a stop-point, the captured nut is open at the back.
suggestions welcomed.

[garyd1961]

I had the same problem. Dug/cut the old nut out and found a nut to fit the bolt with a washer made to the nut. I'm not sure what it's called but the nut has a round washer on one side, it looks like a nut and washer in one. I put it nut side down in the hole where the stripped nut came out of and welded around the washer part. Fits flush and hasn't caused a problem in several years of use.

[Sheepdip]

Originally Posted by garyd1961

I had the same problem. Dug/cut the old nut out and found a nut to fit the bolt with a washer made to the nut. I'm not sure what it's called but the nut has a round washer on one side, it looks like a nut and washer in one. I put it nut side down in the hole where the stripped nut came out of and welded around the washer part. Fits flush and hasn't caused a problem in several years of use.

That's called a flanged nut and I also use them all the time to repair wobbled out threaded parts when you cannot get to the back side.

https://www.amazon.com/SNUG-Fastener...4&s=hi&sr=1-19

Sometimes the hole might be a little large so I keep some of these around also.

https://www.amazon.com/Socell-18x1-1...69576829&psc=1

[lutronjim]

There is also EZ-lock. I have used these on brake caliper mounts where there is a streight through hole.

[sick472]

The flange nut approach is what I did to solve the same problem. Do yourself a favor when welding the new nut it and screw a bolt into the flange nut prior to welding it (bolt head outwards). This will keep weld splatter from getting into the threads and reeking havoc later on. Once welded in, remove the sacrificial bolt. I also like to chase the new nut with a tap in case the heat from welding warped it some. This will make the new bolt thread in nicely and not bind and gall.

[Sheepdip]

Originally Posted by sick472

The flange nut approach is what I did to solve the same problem. Do yourself a favor when welding the new nut it and screw a bolt into the flange nut prior to welding it (bolt head outwards). This will keep weld splatter from getting into the threads and reeking havoc later on. Once welded in, remove the sacrificial bolt. I also like to chase the new nut with a tap in case the heat from welding warped it some. This will make the new bolt thread in nicely and not bind and gall.

I might add to put never-sieze on the sacrificial bolt before welding and let it cool before removing.

[garyd1961]

Flange nut, duh, should have known that.