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01-09-2022, 06:05 PM | #1 |
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Location: Borden
Posts: 97
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Auto to manual question
Hi everyone. I'm swapping in a MY6 in my 72. The bracket that bolts to the frame and the block with the grease fittings, is it different between the 6 cyl and a V8? The donar truck was a 6 and it doesn't seem to fit the v8.any insight?
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01-09-2022, 06:16 PM | #2 |
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Location: Tucson, AZ USA
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Re: Auto to manual question
If you mean the ''Z-Bar'' [the bellcrank pivot connecting to the upper clutch pushrod and clutch lever, clutch pedal/ and the lower clutch rod, clutch fork, throw out bearing and clutch disc ] the answer is Yes.
The L6 and V8 versions are of different spans. Z-Bars have Zerx fittings, no other clutch train component does. Frames of production auto trans trucks do not have a bracket on top of the frame for the Z-Bar end to notch into. It would have to be fabricated from angle iron, or cannibalized from a production-manual frame. Originals are riveted on. Remounting with bolts would work fine. The frame bracket for Z-Bar mounts are the same for either engine type, AFAIK.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. Last edited by '68OrangeSunshine; 01-09-2022 at 06:28 PM. |
01-09-2022, 06:20 PM | #3 |
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Re: Auto to manual question
Yes, that's it. Will any other linkage I have work?wonder if anyone wants to trade z bard?
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01-09-2022, 06:32 PM | #4 |
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Re: Auto to manual question
The V8 upper clutch rod has a 30 degree outboard dogleg, but besides the Z-Bar width, the other clutch train parts are the same.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
01-09-2022, 06:43 PM | #5 |
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Re: Auto to manual question
So the upper rid and zbar are on the list when I hit the junkyard. Hope they have one
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01-09-2022, 06:46 PM | #6 |
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Re: Auto to manual question
The LMC catalog only shows an L6 Upper Clutch Pushrod. [which, after seeing it in person didn't fit my 292/SM465 set up. It was too different from the OEM.] I had my machinist fab one out of 3/8 or 1/2'' steel rod with heim joint ends.
The V8 part they don't even list. GM made these pieces out of some kind of pot metal and they don't take weld repairs well. [They can get pretty chewed up, both at the Clutch Lever end -- inside the cab, and the Z-Bar hole, from constant use in a daily driver.] If you can find a blown-out V8 Upper Pushrod, you could copy the bends and length and fit the ends with heim joints on a fresh steel rod, But you may get lucky with a Want To Buy listing in the Parts Forum, since you're a Premium Member.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. Last edited by '68OrangeSunshine; 01-09-2022 at 06:51 PM. |
01-09-2022, 07:59 PM | #7 |
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Re: Auto to manual question
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1967 Factory short bed - Old school '71 - 350 / 4bolt / 487 heads / Edelbrock C3BX Muncie M-22 4 speed / Hurst Comp plus Factory 12 bolt posi 3.73 / 255-70-15 Smoothed firewall / Factory cowl induction Power disc brakes / power steering / 3.5-5" drop |
01-11-2022, 07:50 PM | #8 |
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Re: Auto to manual question
The bracket with the ball looks interesting. If I am looking at it right, the zbar pops in that? I'd like to see a better pic of it. I moved my 327 back to the 6 cyl mounts so I know there will be some modifications to do. If this bracket is adjustable....
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01-11-2022, 08:01 PM | #9 |
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Re: Auto to manual question
Here's a mediocre photo of a greasy bracket attached to a bare engine block.
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01-11-2022, 08:06 PM | #10 |
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Re: Auto to manual question
Ok, I made one of those once. Just making sure I was thinking right. Thanks for the quick response
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01-12-2022, 06:32 PM | #11 |
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Re: Auto to manual question
The 4 wheel drive blocks mount a ball-stud right in the Drivers Side of the block. My '71 GMC Jimmy has this. Even the 1998 Mr.Goodwrench crate motor I put in as a replacement had the right bore in the block for the Z-Bar ball-stud.
By contrast, the L6 Z-Bar ball is mounted on a bracket that stands off about 6 or 7'' from the side of the block. [shown] The groove in the ball head is for an O-ring to keep grease in the Z-Bar tube.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
01-13-2022, 07:27 PM | #12 |
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Re: Auto to manual question
Not sure if you now have the info you need, I thought I would add a pic of the parts I removed from my 72 c10. These are off a 72 C10 with a 350 and a Sm465 4 speed transmission.
You can see the bracket that was removed from the frame, the z bar, the pivot that bolts to the engine block, as well as the upper and lower push rods. I am not familiar with the 6 cylinder parts, or if they are the same , but maybe this info will help
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72 C10, Was a 350,M20, Brodix heads,Comp cam, Edelbrock intake&carb, Hedman hedders LWB. Project is now a 5.3(L33) w/PRC stage 2.5 CNC ported 243heads, BTR RedHot cam,Holley Terminator X, T56 magnum. SWB, Boyd tank. 4.5/4 Drop http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...My72c10project |
01-14-2022, 06:11 AM | #13 |
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Re: Auto to manual question
That does. Thank you
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