1967 5x4.75 help

[chipmaker 1985]

Hi Guys, Long time lurker 1st time poster.
Needing help converting my Dad's 67 to 5x4.75 disc.
He has a set of wheels that he has his heart set on and I want to find a way to make it happen for him. From what I've read we can get a stock spindle bolt on kit, but it will increase the track width. I'm still not sure if it's 1.25 per side or over all. I don't believe we have the room for 1.25 per side.
Other option is, we have a set of spindles and calipers that I believe to be 71-72 but I'm not sure how to confirm. I know they make a 6x5.5 to 5x4.75 conversion rotor for the 71+ but I'm unsure of what ball joints and tie rods/ adjuster sleeves to use.

I'm thinking it would just be the conversion rotors, 71-72 ball joints and tie rods with the conversion adjuster sleeves if I can confirm that those are indeed 71-72 spindles

Any advice y'all can give will be greatly appreciated. Dad's getting on up in his age and has already had a heart transplant, I want to do everything I can to get him in his 67 ASAP

Thanks in advance for any help y'all can offer

[cwcarpenter98]

A recent thread on the subject: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=830560

[chipmaker 1985]

Originally Posted by cwcarpenter98

A recent thread on the subject: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=830560

Thank you for pointing me I'm the right direction? I think I can make that set up happen.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Another thing you can do is use a wheel adapter as a guide, and drill the larger rotor to desired bolt pattern.

The 1 inch rotors are not the best if you work the truck or bomb curvy roads. They heat soak faster, and warp easier then the 1.25 rotors. Plus lack a good caliper upgrade like the Wilwood D52's. None of which matter if you cruise around.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by chipmaker 1985

Hi Guys, Long time lurker 1st time poster.
Needing help converting my Dad's 67 to 5x4.75 disc.
He has a set of wheels that he has his heart set on and I want to find a way to make it happen for him. From what I've read we can get a stock spindle bolt on kit, but it will increase the track width. I'm still not sure if it's 1.25 per side or over all. I don't believe we have the room for 1.25 per side.
Other option is, we have a set of spindles and calipers that I believe to be 71-72 but I'm not sure how to confirm. I know they make a 6x5.5 to 5x4.75 conversion rotor for the 71+ but I'm unsure of what ball joints and tie rods/ adjuster sleeves to use.

I'm thinking it would just be the conversion rotors, 71-72 ball joints and tie rods with the conversion adjuster sleeves if I can confirm that those are indeed 71-72 spindles

Any advice y'all can give will be greatly appreciated. Dad's getting on up in his age and has already had a heart transplant, I want to do everything I can to get him in his 67 ASAP

Thanks in advance for any help y'all can offer

The drum to disc conversion does add to the track width. Typically it will be 3/8 -.500" each side. There are aftermarket spindles made that reduce this track width increase (CPP's Modular spindle) but they're only available for the HD 1.25" rotor size.

If desiring to go that route, search for a machine shop that can re-drill the 5x5 pattern to the car/5x4.75 pattern if you don't have the proper equipment to DIY.

[KQQL IT]

Redrill maybe a problem with the reinforcement lug

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

Redrill maybe a problem with the reinforcement lug

Ahh.... If that's how they're all made now, that would be a re-drill issue. When I did a pair it was w/some genuine GM rotors back around 1988. Not a problem w/them back then.

[67 cst swb]

There is another option...
71-72 Chevrolet 1/2ton Van Factory Spindle - Then use all 71-72 Truck ball joints and steering linkage.
OR
73-74 Chevrolet 1/2ton Van Factory Spindle - Then use all 73-79 Truck ball joints and steering linkage.

Both these options use 5 x 4-3/4" bolt pattern. They are a smaller diameter rotor, but they are the same rotor, caliper & pads as found on the 70-78 Camaros.

Draw backs are: You do NOT have an option of running a lowered spindle... AND you have to go find a used/salvage yard 71/72 or 73/74 Chevy Van.
Keep in mind... In 1975 they went to 5 on 5 bolt pattern.

I still have a set up of each; one 71/72 and one 73/74 Spindle Assy. No, I am not interested in selling.

This option keeps it simple and easy to order parts from the parts store. Because you order the Suspension pieces (Ball Joints, Tie Rods, etc..) for the correct year Pickup Truck (71/72 or 73/79), then you order the Brake pieces (rotors, calipers, pads, wheel bearings, etc..) for the Correct Year Van Spindle (71/72 or 73/74) used, which is the same as 70-78 Camaro.
Funny part is telling the parts counter person you have an old van, then the look on their face when they typically have everything on the self.

PM me if you have more questions... I spent 30+ years working in Auto Parts stores.

[KQQL IT]

Can't say all.
We where going to do the 4.75 pattern til that showed itself.


The hub we modified this weekend

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 67 cst swb

There is another option...
71-72 Chevrolet 1/2ton Van Factory Spindle - Then use all 71-72 Truck ball joints and steering linkage.
OR
73-74 Chevrolet 1/2ton Van Factory Spindle - Then use all 73-79 Truck ball joints and steering linkage.

Both these options use 5 x 4-3/4" bolt pattern. They are a smaller diameter rotor, but they are the same rotor, caliper & pads as found on the 70-78 Camaros.

Draw backs are: You do NOT have an option of running a lowered spindle... AND you have to go find a used/salvage yard 71/72 or 73/74 Chevy Van.
Keep in mind... In 1975 they went to 5 on 5 bolt pattern.

I still have a set up of each; one 71/72 and one 73/74 Spindle Assy. No, I am not interested in selling.

This option keeps it simple and easy to order parts from the parts store. Because you order the Suspension pieces (Ball Joints, Tie Rods, etc..) for the correct year Pickup Truck (71/72 or 73/79), then you order the Brake pieces (rotors, calipers, pads, wheel bearings, etc..) for the Correct Year Van Spindle (71/72 or 73/74) used, which is the same as 70-78 Camaro.
Funny part is telling the parts counter person you have an old van, then the look on their face when they typically have everything on the self.

PM me if you have more questions... I spent 30+ years working in Auto Parts stores.

These are likely the same as the LT. Duty truck spindle which allows the use of the 1Le rotor & caliper. If one is ok w/using the thinner 1.00" rotor & the lighter duty caliper, this works. Light duty spindles are available as drop spindles as well.

For those seeking something heavier duty, re-drilling once worked. I have (had?) a set of GM 1/2 12" x 1.25" thick rotors on my 67/68 that were re-drilled to car pattern. I'd have to pull one off to verify if it still has them now since it's been raided for parts as the years went by.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

Can't say all.
We where going to do the 4.75 pattern til that showed itself.


The hub we modified this weekend

I know the S10 & g-body guys routinely cut old rotors up to use as hubs. I didn't care for that as I read of @ least a couple of instances where the hub eventually cracked/failed. That's why I opted for the aftermarket billet hubs on my more recent projects slated for larger brakes.

[Joyridin]

Just as a reference in case somebody wants the info at a later date. You can get one of these to drill the rotor assuming it is possible. They work great on the rear axles.

https://www.hellsgatehotrods.com/pro.../drill-guides/

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I know the S10 & g-body guys routinely cut old rotors up to use as hubs. I didn't care for that as I read of @ least a couple of instances where the hub eventually cracked/failed. That why I opted for the aftermarket billet hubs on my more recent projects slated for larger brakes.

The big problem is lack of it now being hub centric, and going to lug centric. Which was told to me to cause a slight wobbling innsome cases. That can lead to a broken hub.

I have done it before, but I had access to a lathe to thin the face some to get some hubcentric action going. I had access to proper disks from a known manufacturer so I didn't feel I had a cheap metal problem coming.

Remember if you do that. They have proper arc welding rods to weld to cast iron

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Ziegelsteinfaust

The big problem is lack of it now being hub centric, and going to lug centric. Which was told to me to cause a slight wobbling innsome cases. That can lead to a broken hub.

I have done it before, but I had access to a lathe to thin the face some to get some hubcentric action going. I had access to proper disks from a known manufacturer so I didn't feel I had a cheap metal problem coming.

Remember if you do that. They have proper arc welding rods to weld to cast iron

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I know the S10 & g-body guys routinely cut old rotors up to use as hubs. I didn't care for that as I read of @ least a couple of instances where the hub eventually cracked/failed. That's why I opted for the aftermarket billet hubs on my more recent projects slated for larger brakes.

Again.... I wouldn't use a cast iron rotor milled down for use as a hub. My preference is to use a spec built hub for the purpose.

[chipmaker 1985]

Awesome stuff Guys!
Thank you all for the info.

This truck is just going to be a peppy little patina cruiser for the ole man to do burn outs and putt around the country in.

So, the CPP bolt on kit does indeed add 2.5" to the total front track width?

Machining parts is not a problem as long as it's time/money efficient. My Dad and I are both machinist and we have a pretty nice little manual machine shop set up.
Had originally thought about getting 71+ rotors and turning them down and re-drilling the pattern, but was worried about, casting issues and material thickness between the hub ID and OD after it was turned for the smaller center bore. Would like to use the factory or the possible 71+ spindles that we have.

Will just bite the bullet and buy some spindles and go with the method in the thread listed above if machining or the CPP bolt on isnt feasible.

Is there any way to confirm that what spindles we actually have? I know they were used on a 67-72 from what we were told, but I don't know with what set-up. We also have calipers with hoses with the casting number 5474176 if anyone knows what they are. I can't find many definitive answers from the number alone.

Back story: My dad has owned the 67 for years but was never able to restore it due to health and family issues. Due to it needing rockers and corners we decided to find him a nice roller we could throw his built 355 in for a quick project to get him cruising. Afterwards I'd buy the 67. Ended up buying a pretty nice 70 roller with a ton of new and slightly used aftermarket parts. A set of 18/20 wheels (in 5x4.75 of course SMH, lol), SPP lower tubular control arms RHE trailing arms, bolt on rear disc kit in 5x4.75, CPP sway bars etc....
After getting the 70 back to the shop the ole man decided that he just couldn't part ways with his beloved small window. So now we're going to put all the parts on the 67 and I'm going to build the 70 for myself after Dad is cruising. Going to be a fun adventure y'all probably be seeing a lot of me, LOL

Thanks again for all of the info

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by chipmaker 1985

Awesome stuff Guys!
Thank you all for the info.

This truck is just going to be a peppy little patina cruiser for the ole man to do burn outs and putt around the country in.

So, the CPP bolt on kit does indeed add 2.5" to the total front track width?

Machining parts is not a problem as long as it's time/money efficient. My Dad and I are both machinist and we have a pretty nice little manual machine shop set up.
Had originally thought about getting 71+ rotors and turning them down and re-drilling the pattern, but was worried about, casting issues and material thickness between the hub ID and OD after it was turned for the smaller center bore. Would like to use the factory or the possible 71+ spindles that we have.

Will just bite the bullet and buy some spindles and go with the method in the thread listed above if machining or the CPP bolt on isnt feasible.

Is there any way to confirm that what spindles we actually have? I know they were used on a 67-72 from what we were told, but I don't know with what set-up. We also have calipers with hoses with the casting number 5474176 if anyone knows what they are. I can't find many definitive answers from the number alone.

Back story: My dad has owned the 67 for years but was never able to restore it due to health and family issues. Due to it needing rockers and corners we decided to find him a nice roller we could throw his built 355 in for a quick project to get him cruising. Afterwards I'd buy the 67. Ended up buying a pretty nice 70 roller with a ton of new and slightly used aftermarket parts. A set of 18/20 wheels (in 5x4.75 of course SMH, lol), SPP lower tubular control arms RHE trailing arms, bolt on rear disc kit in 5x4.75, CPP sway bars etc....
After getting the 70 back to the shop the ole man decided that he just couldn't part ways with his beloved small window. So now we're going to put all the parts on the 67 and I'm going to build the 70 for myself after Dad is cruising. Going to be a fun adventure y'all probably be seeing a lot of me, LOL

Thanks again for all of the info

Re-read the info.

Going to disc from drum brakes adds to the track width.

Drop spindles (which are only available for disc set-ups) can add a little more depending on the manufacturer. It depends on how you look @ your tape measure but it's typically 3/8" per side.

CPP makes a 'Modular' drop spindle. It maintains the drum brake set-ups track width.

Not familiar w/these abreviations:

SPP lower tubular control arms

RHE trailing arms

[chipmaker 1985]

I'm aware that it adds to the track width. That is my concern. Per the CPP website specs P/N 6370WBK-5 adds 1.25". doesn't state over all or per side. I'm not concerned with drop spindles unless the factory spindle bolt on kit won't work

I've also read that the typical drop spindle disc conversion adds a minimal amount of width increase. 1/2"-3/4" per side I can live with, an additional 1.25 per side will probably make the tire sit outside the fender.

EDIT: Widening the track isnt an issue as long as the wheels we have will fit without sticking out, or looking weird with a wide front and narrow rear.

Sorry if I'm being confusing it's been a long day

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by chipmaker 1985

I'm aware that it adds to the track width. That is my concern. Per the CPP website specs P/N 6370WBK-5 adds 1.25". doesn't state over all or per side. I'm not concerned with drop spindles unless the factory spindle bolt on kit won't work

I've also read that the typical drop spindle disc conversion adds a minimal amount of width increase. 1/2"-3/4" per side I can live with, an additional 1.25 per side will probably make the tire sit outside the fender.

EDIT: Widening the track isnt an issue as long as the wheels we have will fit without sticking out, or looking weird with a wide front and narrow rear.

Sorry if I'm being confusing it's been a long day

I've never heard of any aftermarket spindle adding 1.25" per side as far as track width.

[chipmaker 1985]

It's not an aftermarket spindle it's a bolt on bracket that adapts the stock drum rotor to accept a disc caliper.
That adds 1.25" not sure per side or overall.

From what I've gathered the aftermarket spindle, Camaro rotor swap adds less than an inch per side.

Would like to just use the bolt on stock spindle kit for simplicity. Going down to the shop today to try to mock up the wheels and see exactly how much room we have to work with.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by chipmaker 1985

It's not an aftermarket spindle it's a bolt on bracket that adapts the stock drum rotor to accept a disc caliper.
That adds 1.25" not sure per side or overall.

From what I've gathered the aftermarket spindle, Camaro rotor swap adds less than an inch per side.

Would like to just use the bolt on stock spindle kit for simplicity. Going down to the shop today to try to mock up the wheels and see exactly how much room we have to work with.

The bolt-on bracket is for the caliper. The hub still MUST SEAT on the spindle shaft. The bearings fit within the dimensions of the spindle snout so the castle nut & cotter pin can be installed. Those bearings dictate where the hub lands. In doing so, the track width will get wider but not 1.25" wider @ each side. It's usually the thickness of the rotor hat (the portion that sits on the hub).

Again, going from drum to disc brakes increases the track width .375 - .500". Drop spindles can add more to this number but would still come in under the 1.25" per side mark.

I googled that exact p/n off CPP's site. I don't see anywhere in the descript about 1.25" added to the track width:

[chipmaker 1985]

Talked with Austin at CJ pony parts today. He confirmed that this kit does indeed add 1.25" per side. There is a special note at the bottom of the listing stating this





Luckily the wheels he has will actually work out better with the additional width!

[SCOTI]

Not seeing anything ? Is there supposed to be a link?

Did you inquire how exactly the track width grows 1.25" vs drum brakes?

No way I'd do a kit that spaced things out 1.25" (2.5" total) when other options are out there but that's personal preference.

[chipmaker 1985]

Nope didn't ask how. Would assume it has to do with the lug surface position in relation to the position of the bearing seats. The kit doesn't reuse the original bearing hubs so that's where I think the difference is.

Agreed this isn't the method I'd choose, hell I'd never convert a full size Chevy to 5x4.75 anyways.

But it isn't my truck and that's the way the ole man wanted to do it. The kit arrived a couple days ago, hope to be installing it in the next few weeks. I'll take measurements before and after to see how much difference and what causes it.