47-59 Opinion needed - routing of wiring

[TX3100Guy]

Given that I have a completely new wiring harness to install, I have been allowing the process to marinate in my mind. I want a cleaner firewall than the stock setup that I had and have been trying to determine the best places to get two wiring bundles (right side and left side) to the front of the truck.

On each side I'll have headlights, turn signals, daytime running lights. On the left side I'll have alternator, oil pressure, fuel pressure (for the supercharger setup), and water temp. On the right side I'll have electric radiator fan, horn, magneto, supercharger, and starter solenoid.

Here is what I'm thinking. I have eliminated the stomp starter and therefore have a nice out of the way hole, low on the firewall, just above the bell housing and behind the 261 cu in 6 cylinder engine. I could have both bundles penetrate the firewall there and then route to each side of the frame and each wire to its respective location.

The question is, will that location be too hot for the wiring bundles?

[nvrdone]

I dont know if I would use the foot stomp hole. You might rub thru the wiring with your foot.
On my '49 I routed the wiring down the inside of the left foot well, out a hole in the floor to the rear - tail lights, fuel pump etc, then to the left headlight, and across to the right headlight.
Then another harness goes thru the firewall about intake manifold level, down to the battery and starter. The top part goes forward to the oil pressure sender. temp sender and alternator.
Im sure Ive forgotten some of this, but I hope you get the idea.

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by nvrdone

I dont know if I would use the foot stomp hole. You might rub thru the wiring with your foot.

I'm also considering building a center console for the floor shifter that would start at the bench seat and go all the way to the firewall covering the stomp starter hole which would avoid the wear you mentioned. My question is still about any effect of heat from the engine and/or bell housing.

[_Ogre]

tx: ogre ran all the front wires on the right side. these "universal harnesses" have enough wire for a 57 caddie. 2 ac, 2 heater and the single grey conduit is all my front end: lights, fan, ac. behind the distributor is 2 wires (temp and volt gauge) and then the computer harness under it. the rear light harness exits down low behind the remote brake mc reservoir

[dsraven]

I would say try to keep the wiring out of the way of mechanical and heat damage. possibly through the floor down low like Ogre's. bear in mind that a lot of newer vehicles run the wiring behind the engine at the bellhousing joint and then down the top of the transmission etc. the mechanical damage to worry about ith that would just be if the engine had to be pulled. if you're doing a console the wiring could exit the floor back from the line of sight and then forward to the engine etc. there would be no mechanical damage issues on the inside if there is a console. the rad support wiring could be split off and run across under the floor to the frame and then forward. insulate it for exhaust heat as needed. to hide the wiring for the rad support area run it in a detachable conduit on the backside of the inner fender. detachable so if the inner fender needs to come off the conduit unfastens. that, or simply run it along or inside the frame up to the trad support. try to use a good waterproof grommet or bulkhead fitting where it goes through the floor. look at those household compression style fittings that seal well as they will fit several taped wires inside them, or the second link below has some cool ideas for weather and mechanical damage resistance.

https://www.amazon.ca/Morris-21813-C...10184308&psc=1


https://www.icotek.com/en/products/c...conduit-system

[mr48chev]

As it is neat and orderly life is good, Then if you want to hide it as Ogre did on his which is a popular street rod thing that is up to you.

I wish I could talk him into doing my truck but he flat quit wiring hot rods when he retired from the phone company. A long time buddy of mine used to do some of the neatest and most organized wiring in hot rods of anyone around. he spent about 40 years with the phone company and neatness and organizaton were ingrained.

I really have to work my butt off the keep on track and keep things tidy and organized when it comes to wiring as it isn't one of my favorite things to do. My wiring works well and has few issues down the road but it just flat isn't as pretty as it should be unless I totally concentrate on it.

[gsinon]

On my past builds and again when I wire my 51, I run just the few wires that need to go to the engine through a grommet just behind the distributor.

Anything that goes to the front end, lights/horn/electric fan etc, I will run out the side of the cowl behind the driver side fender. Then route the wires inside that flexible black conduit and up high underneath the fender. I will use longer bolts when installing the fender to the apron and tighten them down. Then from underneath I will run a clamp around the black wire conduit and put the clamp around the part of the bolt that extends past the nut, then put a second nut to hold the clamp. By doing it this way I can remove the nut and conduit/wiring for any servicing without having to unbolt the fender. This also keeps the wiring up high away from suspension/tire and out of the way.

This is how I keep things clean under hood. It takes very little additional effort when wiring from scratch

[dsraven]

When I wired trucks and equipment for offroad use in the oilfield up north I ran the wiring inside flexible air brake tubing and used compression fittings at any lights or junctions. It worked well to seal against the elements, held up against mechanical damages and was tidy looking as well. Held in place with cable clamps along the run it wasnt prone to allow mud etc to stick, nothing was able to get inside like split loom allows it and was easily washed clean with pressure washer without damage. Comes in many colors too. Not easy to pull wire through long runs without electricians cable lube though so use a larger tube size to make it easier.