Removing parking brake cables ok?

[evan]

The parking brake on my '79 C10 hasn't worked for as long as I've owned it. It's never been an issue for me. All the cables are still run under the chassis though. Would I cause any problems by removing them? Is there some thing at the drums that needs them there to keep working normally? Do you still have yours intact?

[Dead Parrot]

Mine still works. If the park brake pedal ratchets and releases normally, your issue could be as simple as adjusting the cables. There is an adjustment nut on the cables on the driver's side.

[damnyankee36]

There's no problem removing the cables. Just keep in mind using the parking brake is one of the brake shoe self-adjusting methods. The other is when you back up and come to stop.

It wouldn't hurt every once in awhile to drive in reverse a little on the fast side and firmly hit the brakes to adjust them.

[cadillac_al]

These trucks actually have an emergency brake. They will drag and slow you down in an emergency. When they went to rear disc brakes, the emergency brake function was so weak they started calling it a parking brake because it would be of no help in an emergency.. Mine always work great.

[Hammered 77]

Mine won't ratchet any more but I haven't looked to see why. Probably should take a look and get it working again.

[geezer#99]

Are the cables hooked up inside the drums?
Likely easier to fix them than remove them.

[Pontiac1976]

evan:

The parking brake on my '79 C10 hasn't worked for as long as I've owned it. It's never been an issue for me. All the cables are still run under the chassis though. Would I cause any problems by removing them? Is there some thing at the drums that needs them there to keep working normally? Do you still have yours intact?

First I would back off front cable near the trans, to see if the cable is frozen at the e-brake peddle cable covering(sleeve) just below master. If that cable move freely in out then that good still. It most likely the two rear cables at the cable covering(sleeve) where it is frozen by rust. If the cable is fared it no good. You have to take the drums off the see the cable end in the drum connection ( like a bike brake cable) If you do not know how to do drums brakes look up a manual 1973-80 or a few drum brake Youtube video on drum brakes 73-80 trucks. I you can't do it take it to a shop that has some one that know older drum brakes.

[Pontiac1976]

Teck Tip: If you want the keep the cable lasting a longer time is to get as much white greases in the the (sleeve) liner covering to keep out water help lube the inner sleeve, keep it for wearing out letting metal contact. Once plastic inner sleeve gone and water droplet get in there does not dry out, rust again. Should do this one ever season, @ the three spots.

[Just call me Sean]

I don't think it's very smart to remove the parking brake.

[85/Silverado]

I have no room to install one, with a 4-link and now disc breaks on the rear.
I'm just SOL Sure wish I could though.

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by 85/Silverado

I have no room to install one, with a 4-link and now disc breaks on the rear.
I'm just SOL Sure wish I could though.

Have you looked into pinion mounted Park/emergency brakes?

[SunSoaked]

It will take as much time to remove it as it will to just fix it the way its supposed to be. Geeez

[85/Silverado]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Have you looked into pinion mounted Park/emergency brakes?

Do you still have to run cables? I have to install a new Ford 9" housing so I would like to instll the PB. at the same time.

[geezer#99]

The ones I’ve seen use a hydraulic hose or a cable.

[Accelo]

It is common to have the rear cables freeze up. Easy to tell, just pull on them, from under the truck, and see it they return. It eliminates the other possible issues. They are cheap and easy enough to find. Getting the cable out of the backing plate is the hardest thing about replacing them.
I would fix them. Parking brake is like a parachute, it's nice to have if you need one.
Cheers

[hatzie]

The drum brake adjusters will not work without the parking brake lever on the shoe.

For the people that say the cables freeze up. I have never had parking brakes freeze up and stop working when I was driving a vehicle at least once every month or so. Exercise the parking brake often. Use it when you park the vehicle. Even automagic transmission vehicles. That's what it's for.
I grew up driving manual transmission vehicles. It's just plain unsafe to leave them in gear unattended. I've had water run into the fuse panel on vehicles and activate the starter motor. My 75 Scirocco high school beater lurching into the back of Moms' new Impala crunching the trunk lid and back panel & smashing out her taillights in the middle of the night during a thunderstorm cured me of leaving vehicles in gear for parking. If I'd set it in reverse, as I often did, it would've lurched down the driveway, across a main road, and over the cliff into the river if it didn't get hung up in the brush or cause an accident on the road. Mom and my stepdad were more than a little perturbed. One of those things that I'll never forget even 40 years later but I bet they don't remember at all.

The added benefit of exercising it is the parking brake mechanism spins the star wheels on the automatic adjusters so you don't have to tweak them as often to get decent performance from your drum brakes. Properly adjusted rear drums will work quite well. I'd rather have front discs but properly working rear drums work just fine.

Cables are cheap and easy to replace. Illustrations showing routing and part numbers are in the GM parts books.