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Old 08-08-2004, 04:22 PM   #1
Hook'em
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Question Novice needs help

I have a couple of questions that I am sure someone hear can help me with. A little background on my truck: I inherited it from my Dad a couple weeks ago. I have very little information on the truck, which is my problem. He had the truck for about 10 years and it was mostly redone before he bought it. I know the truck is a mut because the VIN numbers point to '69 but the grill and hood point to '71. My questions for today have to do with the engine. I found out that the engine has a canister type oil filter. I understand that somewhere on the block are numbers that will identify the year of the engine, so I can get the right oil filter. I also understand that the canister can be converted to a regular oil filter rather easily, I would like some opinions regarding this conversion (I assume it has been done around here before). Finally, there is a hole at the back of the engine that would appear to need some type of filter/breather, but I am not sure. Below is a picture of the canister oil filter and a picture of the hole.

Sorry for all of the ignorance, I wish I was able to talk to my Dad about the truck before he passed. I have about as much knowledge as someone who found a truck on the side of the road.

Thanks in advance for any help.
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Old 08-08-2004, 06:18 PM   #2
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Okay, you have an early engine. It's easy to be sure by two things you mentioned.

The hole in the back of the block is where the road draft tube went on these early engines. It was kind of like a primitive PCV system.

The canister filter also points to it being early. Any decent parts man, read not monkey at local place, but a good old parts guy will have the number right on top of his head for the canister insert you need. Delco still makes tham, so it should be real easy to buy one. They used them forever and ever on all GM engines, so the part number is the same for all V8 Chevy's with the canister type of filter irregardless or year..

You can buy a kit to convert to the normal spin on type of filter if you want. The main advantage of this is easier to find filters for. The kit typically costs about 15 bucks from any decent speed shop type of place like Summit or Jegs.
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Old 08-08-2004, 06:48 PM   #3
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Thanks for the information. I am learning more and more about this truck.

Can you give me a date range of what you mean by early engine? The monkey behind the counter at the auto parts store new that it was earlier than 1969, but had really no clue. He said they used to use toilet paper rolls as filters in the canister.
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Old 08-08-2004, 07:39 PM   #4
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Welcome to the board from MN-and sorry to hear about your dad. My 69 350 has the canister oil filter on it- can't find the AC Delco number for the cartridge, But the one for a NAPA GOLD is 1143-got one sitting on the shelf. I also looked into changing to a spin on type filter. When you get the canister filter off-you will see a plate bolted to the block with two bolts. Thats what a guy has to change out to put a spin-on on. I think local junkyards might have a "couple" laying around! Hope this helps!
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Old 08-08-2004, 08:03 PM   #5
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Welcome form NorCal, and my condolences about your Dad's passing.

I heartily recommend converting to a spin-on filter. They are likely easier to find, but more importantly, so much easier (and less messy!) to change. I worked part-time in a service station as a kid, and changed a lot of canister filters (oil-bath air filters, too, but that's another story).
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Old 08-08-2004, 08:36 PM   #6
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Thanks for the additional info.

What about the road draft tube? Is that something I need to get?
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Old 08-08-2004, 10:03 PM   #7
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I have seen the breather hole plugged with a freeze plug. You just have to hook up a PVC valve in one of the valve covers.
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Old 08-08-2004, 10:47 PM   #8
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Here's the PCV adapter that goes in the hole:
A hose connects it, by way of a PVC valve, to a source of manifold vacuum, usually a big fitting at or near the bottom of the carb.

The PCV system replaced the draft tube in the early '60s. It draws crankcase fumes into the intake to be burned along with fuel. Fresh air (to replace the fumes) can be drawn into the crankcase by way of a filtered cap on the oil fill tube, or through a tube connected between the air filter & the carburetor.

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Old 08-09-2004, 12:04 AM   #9
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My dad was surprised when I got my truck and had to do its first oil change, that it had the canister type filter. I had a suspicion that the engine was not original due to the fact that the engine, transmission, and transfer case were all painted a blue color. I later verified this by reading the stamp in front of the valve cover. My engine is a 350 from a '74 school bus. I guess that maybe the bigger trucks kept the canister type longer than the light trucks/cars? My uncle had a '72 with stock spin-on type.

Anyway, you don't *have* to change the filter over to a screw on type. According to my dad, the canister filters better and is more resistant to getting punctured ( Don't know how he knows this, I'm guessing there is some sort of bonehead incident he may be holding back). I like mine as it is kind of unique, but I will probably be getting a different engine in the future.
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Old 08-09-2004, 01:08 AM   #10
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Ive got one of them spin on adaptors off a 283 im gonnna build I hear there high $$
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Old 08-09-2004, 09:59 AM   #11
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OK-the AC Delco number for the canister filter is:PF 141. As long as a guy can get the filters,why not keep it?
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Old 08-09-2004, 10:22 AM   #12
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The canister filters work fine. It is just messier when changing and it takes longer to clean it out. I have them on my old Vettes.

I'd probably convert on a vehicle that I wasn't concerned about originality.
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Old 08-09-2004, 10:55 AM   #13
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My "primitive" pcv valve looks just like yours a big home in the back. But because my is a show truck I already had an aftermarket Edelbrock intake, so with the kit provided just punch out the hole in the bottom of the intake and put the "pcv" there works good and legal
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Old 08-09-2004, 11:41 AM   #14
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I realized this morning that there is a valve and hose that is supposed to go in the large hole in the rear of the engine, it had just come loose.

I am still tempted to covert to a spin type filter, but if I can easily find the AC Delco filters, I will probably keep is as is for now. Thanks again for the information.
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Old 08-09-2004, 02:44 PM   #15
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Hi
Welcome to the board from Maryland. In reguard to the oil filter addapter, call Competition Products 1-800-223-0199 . It is part #3952301 regular or #3952301P with bypass valve, and the price is $12.50. They have a tech line to let you know which will work best for your truck.I installed one on my 1960 chevy. It was simple,even for me! I just cant remember which I used ? My 1960 Chevys also have the down draft tube which was the correct information about the hole in the rear of the block, which I modified to the pvc because the tubes drip oil. Good luck!


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Old 08-09-2004, 04:17 PM   #16
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The reason for converting is experienced when you change the filter. They are messy and can be less available at the parts stores. They can also leak since there is a bolt through the bottom of the canister. Otherwise, if yours is in good shape, run with what you've got.
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