Project: UniqueOdyssey:'68C10-possibly one of the longest builds, unique stories..

[UniqueOdyssey68]

Originally Posted by slowcpe

Going to be a sweet truck. Jealous of the work on the cab.

Thanks! It will, sometimes hard to see the light at end of the tunnel. Still hell of a lot of fun building it this way. Yea the cab, what an ordeal lol. There's always more underneath the surfaces (rust, filler, putty, glue lol)

At the time, we even looked for better cab but nothing came up when we needed. I was kinda partial to it anyway, being my first car, original B pillar tags, etc. so I said screw it, let's just rebuild it and do it right.

[slowcpe]

Originally Posted by UniqueOdyssey68

Thanks! It will, sometimes hard to see the light at end of the tunnel. Still hell of a lot of fun building it this way. Yea the cab, what an ordeal lol. There's always more underneath the surfaces (rust, filler, putty, glue lol)

At the time, we even looked for better cab but nothing came up when we needed. I was kinda partial to it anyway, being my first car, original B pillar tags, etc. so I said screw it, let's just rebuild it and do it right.

I've been tossing the idea of another cab myself. Problem for me I want/need a '67 small window cab. I've found a couple but you pay for rust free, however in the long run it may be way cheaper. But I'm wanting to do a few custom touches so I may try and fix the cab.

[UniqueOdyssey68]

Originally Posted by slowcpe

I've been tossing the idea of another cab myself. Problem for me I want/need a '67 small window cab. I've found a couple but you pay for rust free, however in the long run it may be way cheaper. But I'm wanting to do a few custom touches so I may try and fix the cab.

Yeah they're getting more difficult to find for sure. Kind of depends on how much of the critical structure of cab needs work. Of course, floor, rockers, corners are typical, but if the pillars, firewall, window frames, core roof (not the skin) are good, then I'd fix it and paint w/anti-rust really well. That AMD floor is a 1 piece.

Also depends on your climate too. Good products out there now that make these things won't corrode away like when they were built

[UniqueOdyssey68]

Couple months ago stumbled upon some Old School billets! Ended up making a trade w/another good C10 dude. Before that, found some good tires guy was swapping out.

Perfect combo w/the stance! Old school, hot rod/muscle look. Check out those calipers peeking Should work for while until I can afford brand new set, should ride good.

Eagle Alloy/American Eagle Wheels (frickin' Made in America!)
212 series 17x8 front, 17x9.5 rear.
A lot of time, but got them cleaned up, painted backsides. Polishing wheels sucks doesn't it..lol but worth the results.

Toyo Proxes ST II - 255/60/17 front, 275/60/17 rear

[landarts]

Very nice truck and build. I am over in Star and also been working on a long term build. Good Luck!

[72 tigger]

Good job on not giving up! Going to be a nice ride

[UniqueOdyssey68]

Thank you!
Got couple more things done & started over the Labor Day holiday weekend - "laboring" away some late nights in the shop lol:

Some confusion (next post) but I'm researching a lot and taking time to figure it all out.

Oil Pan kit swapped & painted - GMPP "musclecar/hot rod"/H3 pan. Researched around here, should be ample clearance w/my mild drop, and work good for the $. Prices of other GM and aftermarket pans have gone up for sure!

Bottom end of the 5.3l L33 looks good, healthy

Will post painted trans, and engine/trans mating challenges next.

[UniqueOdyssey68]

Cleaned & painted trans. Had trans sitting around for while. Couldn't decide between Chevy Orange or Silver. Flipped a coin - silver will brighten up the undercarriage a bit.

Trans is a 2001 built V8/4L60E (based on tag/top 12 o'clock bellhousing hole). Says 1CBD Ramos on tag - so was made (case at least) in 2001 at Ramos Arizpe, Mexico plant.

Was already low mileage rebuild when I bought it - upgraded sunshell, clutch pack, corvette servo, shift kit. Got Torque converter w/it, tag/part number shows should be 2000-2400 rpm stall.

Current challenges up next...ugh.

[UniqueOdyssey68]

Challenge I have been having is getting bellhousing bolt holes to line up on the block.
1. There is no bolt hole in block immediately right of the top 12 o'clock bolt.
Maybe that is normal based on different block/bellhousing designs and GM
plant builds..? Hmm.
2. The passenger side bottom bolt near oil pan/starter doesn't line up (see pic). Took off the starter - same, seems off by an inch or so.
I did swap the original truck pan out to the GMPP hot rod/muscle car H3
pan - but my measurements of the bottom pan bolt holes is the same, so
that shouldn't be an issue. Hmm.
3. All bolts on the drivers side line up perfect.
4. Dowel pins good shape & line up.


Done tons of research, ensured torque converter is seated, gaps seem ok, flexplate matches torque converter, torque converter snout fits into crank hole, etc. My neighbor thinks the bellhousing is wrong for block. But I don't think so based on all the stuff on the Interwebs about mating 2000-current 4L60e to LS blocks, they should all bolt up. Hmm.

I'm hoping maybe the torque converter snout is not aligned in the crank hole just right, or it's up against the flexplate and not even in the hole lol, and I just need to try again and see if the converter spins when I think it's lined up.

I found this mating trans to engine thread, posted here, hoping for any tips http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...errerid=182563

[UniqueOdyssey68]

It's my b-day weekend! Figured I'd upload some pics before I get distracted with music, beer, food, and college football next couple days

Took time and careful research, testing, measuring stuff to ensure it all went smooth.
-GenIII's don't have 1 o'clock trans bolt hole.
- Torque converter fit in the crank pilot hole good. Red loctite flexplate bolts, torqued to spec.
- Mated up nicely. Clearance/tolerance came out fine.
- Blue loctite bolts, torqued to spec.
- Engine cranks over by hand smooth, no rubbing, no noises.

[UniqueOdyssey68]

- ACDelco replacement flexplate covers off Amazon worked good.

The project has a heart! Engine/trans is in, not hooked up of course, but pretty big deal since it hasn't had a heart since 2002 and I did this all myself, slowly

[UniqueOdyssey68]

Still some clearance issues to work out with the shorty header flanges hitting the top framrails, but small notch should work.

Love how it sits in there, and glad to get some shop floor space back!

- Engine side, frame, mounts and trans crossmember from IFS in Texas, used SBC clam shell mounts.
- Good few degrees of tilt to the rear, like it should be.

[UniqueOdyssey68]

Enough clearance with the GMPP "hot rod"/muscle car oil pan swap. Even with the x-member, doesn't hang below, and front clears over x-member fine.

[67 fastback]

Very nice. Great progress.

[UniqueOdyssey68]

Haven't updated my build thread in YEARS, because life happened again. Changed jobs, lost jobs, found another job, that pandemic thing happened, wife got cancer, I got covid, physical disability related health issues, medical bills, found out can't have kids due to her cancer battle and treatments. **** F CANCER!
But it's still a project truck, lots to do, working on a few things. Finishing up brake lines, driveshaft, rear bumper, hopefully custom exhaust in near future

[72 tigger]

Hang in there bud- sorry life has been so rough and crazy

[cornerstone]

^^^ What he said. Stay hopeful. I'd venture to guess most guys run into set backs but persistence will pay off. I recently have been able to spend time on my project after a couple year hiatus, and boy does it feel good to get that much closer to the goal.