Does everything run off of one 12ga wire?

[A1971Blazer]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Thank you for the reply, I appreciate it. I'll take a look on Amazon.

you're welcome...this is the one I got...they have several but I needed at least 6 relays and 10 fuse slots
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[MikeB]

A 1971 Blazer -- That's some very nice work. Where will the battery be mounted?

I don't have a load center, but do have a budget distribution block.

[cj847]

Originally Posted by A1971Blazer

you're welcome...this is the one I got...they have several but I needed at least 6 relays and 10 fuse slots
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think you may be missing at least 2 relays (depending on your wiring plan and assuming automatic transmission). One for the torque converter clutch and one for the neutral safety system.

[A1971Blazer]

Originally Posted by MikeB

A 1971 Blazer -- That's some very nice work. Where will the battery be mounted?

I don't have a load center, but do have a budget distribution block.

Nice job on yours.....I like neat wiring and I have a buss very similar that mounts on the bracket underneath...
My battery will be in the stock location but I'm eliminating the distribution block on the passenger fender....
running a #8 with fusible link from the battery to the buss....#6 with fusible link from the alternator to either the starter or the buss (haven't decided yet).

[A1971Blazer]

Originally Posted by cj847

I think you may be missing at least 2 relays (depending on your wiring plan and assuming automatic transmission). One for the torque converter clutch and one for the neutral safety system.

Thanks for mentioning that....I'm no wiring expert but I was concerned about the TCC...I have a reworked factory harness that does have a relay for it..
the harness I bought from PSI for the LS didn't have a provision for a TCC relay. At this point I can still add it in.
As for the NSS I'm just using the factory one along with the factory starting circuit.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by A1971Blazer

running a #8 with fusible link from the battery to the buss....#6 with fusible link from the alternator to either the starter or the buss (haven't decided yet).

I'm running #8 from battery to distribution block, #8 to alternator, and then #10 to the American Autowire fuse panel. The kit comes with #6 SGX wire for battery to alternator, but my truck will never need that much. It's also very thick and wouldn't fit in the wire gutter.

There are lots of discussions on the web about fuses vs. fusible links. I feel strongly both ways! I used one of the AAW kit's mega-fuse blocks in place of a fusible link. The kit uses a 175 amp fuse, which makes no sense at all. I've got a 100 amp fuse in there now because I had one laying around, but will probably go with 60 amps.

BTW, for anyone wondering about the circuit breaker near the battery, it's for my 25-year old Vintage Air unit. AAW told me years ago that I can power the A/C through their fuse panels, but I'll keep things the way they are.

[A1971Blazer]

Originally Posted by MikeB

I'm running #8 from battery to distribution block, #8 to alternator, and then #10 to the American Autowire fuse panel. The kit comes with #6 SGX wire for battery to alternator, but my truck will never need that much. It's also very thick and wouldn't fit in the wire gutter.

There are lots of discussions on the web about fuses vs. fusible links. I feel strongly both ways! I used one of the AAW kit's mega-fuse blocks in place of a fusible link. The kit uses a 175 amp fuse, which makes no sense at all. I've got a 100 amp fuse in there now because I had one laying around, but will probably go with 60 amps.

BTW, for anyone wondering about the circuit breaker near the battery, it's for my 25-year old Vintage Air unit. AAW told me years ago that I can power the A/C through their fuse panels, but I'll keep things the way they are.

I got the M&H upgrade harness, it came with an additional #8 fusible link feed, designed to connect directly to the battery, that branches into two #8 feeds into the fuse panel.
It also has 4 additional #12 gauge feeds out of the panel for adding accessories (power windows...etc)

[HO455]

Originally Posted by MikeB

There are lots of discussions on the web about fuses vs. fusible links. I feel strongly both ways! I used one of the AAW kit's mega-fuse blocks in place of a fusible link. The kit uses a 175 amp fuse, which makes no sense at all. I've got a 100 amp fuse in there now because I had one laying around, but will probably go with 60 amps.

There maybe a middle option for you depending on what physical size fuse you are using. There is a type of fuse known as Slo-Blo. They are used in electric motor circuits and other applications to give protection like a normal fuse but, they are also resistant to momentary spikes in amperage.

More information in the link.

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/slow-blow-fuses/

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by HO455

There maybe a middle option for you depending on what physical size fuse you are using. There is a type of fuse known as Slo-Blo. They are used in electric motor circuits and other applications to give protection like a normal fuse but, they are also resistant to momentary spikes in amperage.

Thanks for the tip. It looks like all of the Littlefuse Mega-fuses are time delay. This should work for me: https://www.waytekwire.com/item/4704...High-Amp-Fuse/

Looks like the next size down is 40A.

[A1971Blazer]

I did an auxiliary battery and fuse panel in my side by side...
i used a resettable breaker similar to this.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

I like these rewiring kits. If I could be assured that I got what the truck actually needed, I'd like to do it. But I'm an old man, and not sure that I could get it done properly or in some kind of reasonable time frame. Meanwhile, I'm expecting electrical problems from the old wiring, just because it's old.

I found a couple of the OE wires had insulation that was rubbed through. Also found a wire with half the copper strands broken, probably from being manipulated by me over the years.

This is my 4th complete wiring job in the past 15 years or so, not including one installed by someone else that needed lots of fixes. I thought this would be the easiest of the bunch, but at my age everything's getting tougher. A lot of it is just getting off my butt and getting to work! In addition to over-thinking things, I've been the king of procrastinators on this project.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by A1971Blazer

I did an auxiliary battery and fuse panel in my side by side...
I used a resettable breaker similar to this.
Attachment 2269408

You can add breakers and their pros & cons to the list of protection devices. But a name-brand breaker should work just fine if it never or rarely trips.

[A1971Blazer]

Originally Posted by MikeB

I found a couple of the OE wires had insulation that was rubbed through. Also found a wire with half the copper strands broken, probably from being manipulated by me over the years.

but at my age everything's getting tougher. A lot of it is just getting off my butt and getting to work! In addition to over-thinking things, I've been the king of procrastinators on this project.

Originally Posted by MikeB

You can add breakers and their pros & cons to the list of protection devices. But a name-brand breaker should work just fine if it never or rarely trips.

As for the age thing...I totally understand...but luckily right now I do have the motivation to get this project completed...
The only breaker I'm using will be for the headlight relays...just one of the small 40A ones that I attached to my bracket.
I made a copper buss for the 12V feed and the grounds so that I could use just one main feed wire into the box.
most of the circuits in this box pertain to the LS swap wiring....I still have to complete all the chassis wiring....