transmission cooler lines/connections Q's

[rodstored-72]

hi.. i am posting this here since it is related to a drivetrain swap. i have a '13 4l60-E and looking into a finned cooler for it. i would like to know if the factory steel lines can connect to a aftermarket cooler & how this would be done?. i have seen/read alot of people do this, but the factory lines "look" like they are crimped for pressure. and not sure if doing "typical" an fittings to lines/cooler can "handle" the pressure ? and will not leak? assuming the connections are correct.
thank you,

[Jason Banks]

I have my whole transmission lines done with 3/8 aluminum tube and AN fittings.

If you want to use the factory lines, coming off the transmission and adapter them to AN up near the front of the truck. I would stick with stainless steel compression fitting to AN adapters, since I believe the factory lines are steel and the typical aluminum AN fittings will probably not compress the steel tube with the ferule as well as they do aluminum lines.

Something like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/185364203958

Another alternative would be to take your factory lines to a hydraulic shop and see if they can weld/braze AN fitting on the end where you need them.

I MIGHT also trust a high quality Tube Nut and Sleeve like these:
https://www.jegs.com/p/Earls/Earls-H...49390/10002/-1

To install those, you cut your line, slide the nut on, slide the sleeve on, flare the end of the tube to 37° and tighten onto a male AN fitting. But again, you are trying to squish steel with aluminum. I haven't tried it...

[LS short box]

On my LS swaps with 4l60E's I use -6 SS line from the trans to the trans cooler. I use the B&M stacked plate cooler that have inlet/outlet setup for -6/npt fitting. You can buy -6 adapters that fit into the trans. I've never had a failure.
If you still want to go with steel lines I would talk to a hydraulic shop in regards to compression fittings and -6 fittings. Just like high pressure hydraulic lines.

[rodstored-72]

thanks for the replies.. very helpful, my thought is lsshortbox, but, i currently have a plate type cooler with just the straight metal ends. I guess I am looking for how to attach the fluid lines to this actual trans. cooler? I have seen many with just the hoses connected via clamps, but the factory 4L60-E trans lines are steel(?) with rubber ends that have "pressure type" crimp ends, so this leads me to believe there is a pressure that needs to be accounted for??
...my thought is to get some alum. straight line/PTFE line, bend/route as needed, attach with AN fittings or "redhorse" fittings or similar?...

thanks!!

[LS short box]

Maybe bite the bullet and buy a new cooler with NPT fittings? You don't need to use PTFE -6. Regular -6 SS hose is fine pressure wise. I've used Russell, Earl's and Summit and again never a failure.
In lieu of a new cooler you could have -6 fittings tig welded on as said above.

[A1971Blazer]

My swap came from an '02 TransAm,
I used the factory steel lines up to the front of the oil pan and brazed on -6 AN fittings.....
from there to the radiator with teflon braided hose, from the radiator to an auxiliary cooler and back with 3/8" aluminum lines.

the line to the cooler comes out at the top of the radiator, the return comes out at the bottom and back to the transmission


painted all the lines black to help them disappear

[Richard]

Originally Posted by A1971Blazer

My swap came from an '02 TransAm,
I used the factory steel lines up to the front of the oil pan and brazed on -6 AN fittings.....
from there to the radiator with teflon braided hose, from the radiator to an auxiliary cooler and back with 3/8" aluminum lines.

the line to the cooler comes out at the top of the radiator, the return comes out at the bottom and back to the transmission
Attachment 2271987

painted all the lines black to help them disappear
Attachment 2271988
Attachment 2271989

Looks really good! From your description the added trans cooler seems to be before the stock radiator cooler, maybe increasing temps at times. Like the B&M plate coolers myself. Always use the stock cooler to get trans up to operating temp quickly, but have always installed auxiliary cooler after the stock cooler to decrease temps. FWIU heat is the enemy on an automatic. Am I reading wrong, or is there a reason for this choice?

[A1971Blazer]

Originally Posted by Richard

Looks really good! From your description the added trans cooler seems to be before the stock radiator cooler, maybe increasing temps at times. Like the B&M plate coolers myself. Always use the stock cooler to get trans up to operating temp quickly, but have always installed auxiliary cooler after the stock cooler to decrease temps. FWIU heat is the enemy on an automatic. Am I reading wrong, or is there a reason for this choice?

the radiator cooler is actually first in line from the transmission output... I researched for some time about where to input into the radiator and nearly everything I found indicated that the hot line should go into the bottom of the radiator and come out the top (which was actually opposite of my way of thinking at the time) then the "U" shaped line at the top of the radiator goes around the front and into the far side of the cooler, then back down just to the side and back of the radiator.

Nonetheless that's how it's plumbed...obviously my description was a little confusing and the return line from the cooler going back to the transmission is hidden from view except at the very bottom of the radiator (the short black tube at the bottom under the braided fitting in the radiator)

Thanks for looking at it that closely, and being willing to point out a possible mistake, guys like you are the ones who really make this site the best.

a better picture…i took the radiator out so i can run all the wires up inside the core support

[Bigdav160]

That's an interesting radiator. The core is cross flow but there are no coolant hoses on the drivers side tank?

What makes water flow through the core and not just through the end tank?

[Richard]

Originally Posted by Bigdav160

That's an interesting radiator. The core is cross flow but there are no coolant hoses on the drivers side tank?

What makes water flow through the core and not just through the end tank?

The tank with the inlet and outlet is divided into two tanks (upper/lower) Water goes in lower inlet- flows across bottom half of radiator into the fully open tank on other side- water then flows across upper half of radiator to upper half of divided tank and to outlet. A dual pass crossflow.

[A1971Blazer]

Originally Posted by Bigdav160

That's an interesting radiator. The core is cross flow but there are no coolant hoses on the drivers side tank?

What makes water flow through the core and not just through the end tank?

LS swap radiator…from Entropy…luckily I bought it back before the price went sky high…I paid $800
I had it running already about a year ago, at full operating temperature, I could lay my hand on it without getting burned…

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by A1971Blazer

My swap came from an '02 TransAm,
I used the factory steel lines up to the front of the oil pan and brazed on -6 AN fittings.....
from there to the radiator with teflon braided hose, from the radiator to an auxiliary cooler and back with 3/8" aluminum lines.

the line to the cooler comes out at the top of the radiator, the return comes out at the bottom and back to the transmission
Attachment 2271987

painted all the lines black to help them disappear
Attachment 2271988
Attachment 2271989

What fittings did you use in the radiator to attach the AN lines? TIA

[A1971Blazer]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

What fittings did you use in the radiator to attach the AN lines? TIA

-6 AN to 1/2"-20 inverted flare per the fittings in my Entropy
just make sure that's what yours has.
finished all my plumbing and tightened it all down....fired it up Saturday...no leaks anywhere..