Tow and Roadtrip Rig Engine Options

[coacharmstrong1990]

Long time member, but I havent been active in many years. I have owned several C10s, Blazers, and now a K10 Suburban. Collecting opinions on the engine options for my Suburban

So my main goal with this truck is to build a do it all rig. Comfortable for family long distance roadtrips, daily drivings and dragging home new projects. Will be upgrading the brakes, cooling, HVAC systems, electronics ect but want to focus on the drive train first.

Currently it has a 350 w Vortec Heads, 4 speed and 3.08 gears. The 350 is super solid and reliable but very tired.

So im going to upgrade but i need some opinions on the engine. I will be using a NV4500 and eventually upgrading to 3.42 or 3.73 gears.

Option A - Refresh and prob bore the current 350 .030. Keep the heads, flat top pistons and a small Roller Cam (Comp K12-409-8) and a q-jet.

Option B - Could build a 396 i have w iron open chamber heads. upgrade to a roller cam. Very Mild build in mind. still would use the q-jet.

Most I would tow would be a speed boat, small camper, or a K20 on my car trailer.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by coacharmstrong1990

Long time member, but I havent been active in many years. I have owned several C10s, Blazers, and now a K10 Suburban. Collecting opinions on the engine options for my Suburban

So my main goal with this truck is to build a do it all rig. Comfortable for family long distance roadtrips, daily drivings and dragging home new projects. Will be upgrading the brakes, cooling, HVAC systems, electronics ect but want to focus on the drive train first.

Currently it has a 350 w Vortec Heads, 4 speed and 3.08 gears. The 350 is super solid and reliable but very tired.

So im going to upgrade but i need some opinions on the engine. I will be using a NV4500 and eventually upgrading to 3.42 or 3.73 gears.

Option A - Refresh and prob bore the current 350 .030. Keep the heads, flat top pistons and a small Roller Cam (Comp K12-409-8) and a q-jet.

Option B - Could build a 396 i have w iron open chamber heads. upgrade to a roller cam. Very Mild build in mind. still would use the q-jet.

Most I would tow would be a speed boat, small camper, or a K20 on my car trailer.

Good to see you posting again.

Here is how I installed the NV4500 in my C-30 Dually to replace the SM465

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=673588

I don't know how much difference it would make with yours being a K but I would think the basic trans install would be the same.

LockDoc
.

[weq92f]

.

If your rig will be doing mostly family cruising/tripping, I'm thinking the refreshed 350 would be the more economical choice as you can R&R the thing and reuse most everything else.

If you want the sound and power of the BBC and are willing to eat the expense of retro-fit roller setup, accessories, drive line changes, added weight and the poor fuel mileage you will get in the end, don't look anywhere else but the rat motor!

Hth,

-klb

[A1971Blazer]

Don't forget the 383 stroker option...good torque..much better fuel economy than the BB
you can get a kit for your current engine or a crate shortblock
and unless you're die hard old school....there's always the 6.0 LS...hard to beat those

[PbFut]

I agree with A1971Blazer. If you are not revving out the motor, even two bolt caps will hold on a stroked crank with a set of good bots. For great power reliability and efficentcy an LS2 or 3 is great but fairly costly and you will never ROI. So don't use efficentcy as a reason to go LS just a nice to have. Power and reliability is very easy to build into LS.
On a SBC Low compression pistons will allow you to use regular fuel but having done so myself, as I don't really need the power, it also limits cam selection and your exhaust notes are whimpy to my ear. I think a moderate cammed 10 to 1 383 is probably the best small block. Ok sorry got caught up in the thought and got long winded.

[bnorth]

If fuel mileage/fuel cost is at all a factor in how much you will drive it or how long a road trip you take then I say Option A.
That said I think a K20 on a trailer is likely approaching 7k lbs and the 396 would be happier to tow that around if it is something that happens often.

[Wrenchbender Ret]

While Q-jet carbs are a great carb for light duty & good economy & I have ran them all the time, I don't think they are good for heavy duty service. You will be back & forth & in & out of the secondaries all the time.
Have you considered Deisel? That is the way to truck.

George

[LS short box]

One thing you need to consider is a transmission. If you go some type OD trans you can run 4:10's. That will pull something heavy in 3rd gear but get better MPG when running empty in 4th gear.
I would stay SB (383) for maybe one reason the weight of the BB won't help weight wise when you are running empty.

[jumpsoffrock]

Originally Posted by LS short box

One thing you need to consider is a transmission. If you go some type OD trans you can run 4:10's. That will pull something heavy in 3rd gear but get better MPG when running empty in 4th gear.
I would stay SB (383) for maybe one reason the weight of the BB won't help weight wise when you are running empty.

He already did: he's going NV4500

[truckster]

I chose a small block (L31 based) over a big block because I wanted to drive my Blazer a lot. It's a lot easier to squeeze power out of a small block than it is to squeeze economy out of a big block.

[Mike C]

What size tire do you plan to run? That will help with gear choice. But with a 33” tire and OD, I would go with 4.56. I also agree that staying small block and building a 383 is ideal. Love the, quote “ it’s easier to get power from a small block than economy from a big block”. And I am a Q-jet fan.

383 with a cam having 218 deg or less duration at .050, 4.56 gears with 33” tires or 4.10 if you don’t have the nerve… (I run 4.56 in my CJ-5 on 33” tires and no OD and it’s good for what you do in a CJ-5. My Jimmy has 4.10 and 35” tires with an SM465 and that works good with 65-70 as max speed.) That and the NV4500 should make for an awesome road machine with good low range.

[coacharmstrong1990]

Originally Posted by weq92f

.

If your rig will be doing mostly family cruising/tripping, I'm thinking the refreshed 350 would be the more economical choice as you can R&R the thing and reuse most everything else.

If you want the sound and power of the BBC and are willing to eat the expense of retro-fit roller setup, accessories, drive line changes, added weight and the poor fuel mileage you will get in the end, don't look anywhere else but the rat motor!

Hth,

-klb

I hadn't considered the cost of accessories and brackets on the BBC, I only have a couple good short blocks. This might be the determining factor in my decision.

[coacharmstrong1990]

Originally Posted by A1971Blazer

Don't forget the 383 stroker option...good torque..much better fuel economy than the BB
you can get a kit for your current engine or a crate shortblock
and unless you're die hard old school....there's always the 6.0 LS...hard to beat those

I have seriously considered a 383. I had a 72 Jimmy with a 406 and it was great engine and I could only imagine that a 383 would be very similar. I plan on driving the snot out of this truck, is there any known durability issues with the stroker kits?

I have a 5.3 swapped C10 thats been a headache, really have had to fight with the ECU. I had to eventuially had to switch to a Holley Terminator, which tacked on $1500 to an already expensive build. A LQ9 small cam 6.0 is a very tempting idea tho

[coacharmstrong1990]

Originally Posted by Wrenchbender Ret

While Q-jet carbs are a great carb for light duty & good economy & I have ran them all the time, I don't think they are good for heavy duty service. You will be back & forth & in & out of the secondaries all the time.
Have you considered Deisel? That is the way to truck.

George

I am starting to lean towards a Holley EFI system regardless of what engine I end up building and using a tried and true MSD HEI to handle the timing.

I really like the idea of a 6BT or even a 6.5t but in my neck of the woods people want insane money for just a core Cummins. I also would have to reinforce the frame and change additional drive line components. So i will prob stay away from the oil burners

[coacharmstrong1990]

Originally Posted by Mike C

What size tire do you plan to run? That will help with gear choice. But with a 33” tire and OD, I would go with 4.56. I also agree that staying small block and building a 383 is ideal. Love the, quote “ it’s easier to get power from a small block than economy from a big block”. And I am a Q-jet fan.

383 with a cam having 218 deg or less duration at .050, 4.56 gears with 33” tires or 4.10 if you don’t have the nerve… (I run 4.56 in my CJ-5 on 33” tires and no OD and it’s good for what you do in a CJ-5. My Jimmy has 4.10 and 35” tires with an SM465 and that works good with 65-70 as max speed.) That and the NV4500 should make for an awesome road machine with good low range.

The more I read through the replies to this thread I am leaning more and more to a 383.

Currently the Burb has 3.08s but I will be regearing. I run no lift and 33x10.50s on it and with the 4 speed its great on the interstate, about 2300 rpm. I have looked at different gear seats but not any deeper than 4.10s ( I have a Jeep Gladiator with 33s and 4.10s and love the combo) but was leaning more to 3.42s or 3.73s.

[coacharmstrong1990]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Good to see you posting again.

Here is how I installed the NV4500 in my C-30 Dually to replace the SM465

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=673588

I don't know how much difference it would make with yours being a K but I would think the basic trans install would be the same.

LockDoc
.

Wow Thanks man, I will def be doing this, I love the simplicity of the manual clutch linkage. plus it will save me a ton of cash not converting to hydraulics.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by coacharmstrong1990

Wow Thanks man, I will def be doing this, I love the simplicity of the manual clutch linkage. plus it will save me a ton of cash not converting to hydraulics.

Yeah, that's the beauty in doing it the way I did, using all of the stock clutch components. I'm still driving that truck and the only problem I have had was replacing the throwout bearing. I made the mistake of using a "good " used one instead of installing a new one from the git-go....

LockDoc

[LS short box]

Sorry I missed the manual trans.