Rowdy 57

[dsraven]

ok, thanks. they have them listed as one number fits all years so thats what I am after, clarification.
for the pipes outlet, if you dump out the side, I suggest to attach the pipes firmly at the end and possibly even slip them inside a larger hidden pipe and fasten so there is a small air gap for heat insulation, then attach the rest of the system to them with some sort of flexible joint or flex pipe so they don't move with the rest of the system as the engine moves under torque. that way no rubbing noises or paint removal or leaking joints due to the engine torque easily overstressing gasketed joints or clamps. sort of like the old side pipes did back in the '70's. lots of leaky joints or header gaskets back then due to rigid connections and short systems that don't flex. nothing worse than seeing a great looking hotrod or custom vehicle and then the owner starts it and you hear all the exhaust leaks or there is a big puddle of dirty oil on the ground when he drives away.
just my opinion

[dsraven]

post 57, with the cowl vent issue, the outside part of that vent needs to have a drain at the bottom because usually the reason they rusted is because the vent plugged up with leaves or pine needles etc so water from snow melt or rain collected there and even built up enough to spill out onto the floor of the cab so it rusted out the whole hinge pillar/front fender lower rear mount, step, front cab mount etc. the only way to not have a vent drain would be to eliminate the vent grille in front of the windshield. my cab was toast from the foot vent down and the inner cowl was full of dirt etc pretty much up to the vent hole that exits to the interior. depending on what original heater you have, or if you even plan to use an original heater, some pick up outside air from the cowl vent so as not to be picking up moist air from inside the truck on wet days and putting fog on the windows.