Rustoleum TURBO, spray bomb your truck ??

[hooverfish]

Just saw this video painting a truck with Rustoleum Turbo.
Did a quick search but didnt see where it was already posted. Video shows putting a cheap paint job on OBS short bed.
Costs $18 to $20 per can shipped on Ebay, available in primer and clear too.

https://www.facebook.com/reel/1121379845568621

[Rust_never_sleeps]

How many cans would you need?

[kwmech]

I've got the wonderful original GM peeling paint on my 91 Suburban. Maybe this could be a solution for the impending incoming rust. Will have to check into application

[purple gas]

Last time I checked it was only available in gloss black or white.

[hooverfish]

Originally Posted by Rust_never_sleeps

How many cans would you need?

Approx 3 cans to paint a short bed

Originally Posted by purple gas

Last time I checked it was only available in gloss black or white.

Gloss black, flat black, Black bed paint non-skid,
grey primer, red primer,
gloss white, white primer, and gloss Clear.

[Roostre]

I've been painting my trim and roof with Rustoleum Painter's Touch 2X Ultra Cover. I've been pleased with it so far.

Back in the day we used to paint demo and race cars with spray cans. I seem to remember a 79 Monte Carlo taking around 6-8 cans. The biggest problem is that your spraying finger gets tired.

[special-K]

You can buy the same quality paint to spray through a gun for cheaper than all the cans it would take to paint a truck. I spray bombed a VW bug in HS and it took a heck of a lot of cans. It costed more than if I had bought a gallon and reducer

[Burnsy01]

I used one of these cans on the hood of my 86 camaro drag car, it came out super bad and I ended up redoing it and using a gun to spray it. It was very hard to control and get even coats.

[special-K]

One benefit to using spray bomb is you can do a section at a time easier than using a gun. And if it's a matter of budget, you can buy what you can afford as you go. If you can swing a good discount on cases that would be great. I've had factory pack colors mixed for spot painting, mostly separate pieces like a tool & stowage door, fender flares, and things like that. I even had paint mixed with flattening agent to better blend with dull old paint

[72c20customcamper]

Only problem with using Rustoleum or Krylon spray bombs is it don’t last long in the elements . If I were to use it I would use the farm implement paint with the hardner . But your back to using a spray gun.

[PbFut]

I have been using the Rust-oleum 2 in 1 automotive filler primer on the truck for the past few months. I can do a section at a time when I want. It takes a lot of cans but the result to my very inexperienced eye is good. The reason for cans over bulk and a gun is no clean up. I was told it can react if not fully cured but I don't have to worry about that given how slow I am going. You can sand within hours but it will cake some. Wait 24 if weather is good or 48 if cold and you can sand down to 400 grit without water. Amazon sells boxes of 6 with a decent discount. Also a for the comment on finger issue on the nossle, this is a life saver. Comfort Grip

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by PbFut

I have been using the Rust-oleum 2 in 1 automotive filler primer on the truck for the past few months. I can do a section at a time when I want. It takes a lot of cans but the result to my very inexperienced eye is good. The reason for cans over bulk and a gun is no clean up. I was told it can react if not fully cured but I don't have to worry about that given how slow I am going. You can sand within hours but it will cake some. Wait 24 if weather is good or 48 if cold and you can sand down to 400 grit without water. Amazon sells boxes of 6 with a decent discount. Also a for the comment on finger issue on the nossle, this is a life saver. Comfort Grip

Primer filler is also not to be exposed to uv even high end products like PPG state a cover coat is needed . Not familiar with the Rustoleum primer filler I’m guessing it’s only a undercoat product , the turbo paint is the exact same stuff they sell in the smaller bombs the tip is the difference it gives you more coverage like a spray gun .

If your doing a panel at a time a 2k spray bomb would be best more expansive but petter results . I’ve used this for small items work fairly well wouldn’t try a panel with it though

[PbFut]

Yes, this is an undercoat for some moderate blocking. I am not looking for show quality. Just something that would have looked like a taken care of but used 5 year old truck. I'll use a gun and do a final sealer/primer coat then a single stage color, maybe with a bit of degloss added. I want a 70's driver. Many of the trucks I see today look cool with the better than factory shine but it is not the look I want on this one.

[1972CheyenneSuper]

I had never really used an air spray gun prior to painting my truck last summer. I had gotten pretty good painting pieces with spray bombs over the years. I had never attempted a vehicle with spray bombs, but several large projects I had done that way. I think my big holdup for using spray guns was it seemed like a lot of work just to paint a couple of small pieces which would take longer to clean the gun and cup than anything. I had bought a cheaper DeVILBISS set that I had been using for spraying epoxy primer up until this point, and these things were a pain in the butt to break down and clean, so I would wait until I had a large batch of stuff that was ready to minimize the cleaning.

Back to last summer with a need to spray my truck, I ended up picking up both versions of the HF black widows and their disposable cup system. These guns are super easy to clean, and I would imagine the more expensive version they are impersonating are as well. Without having to clean a cup, I can breakdown and clean the gun in a couple of minutes. Now it's no big deal to mix up a little paint or primer and spray a few pieces. I still use spray paint for things where that is adequate. But with the cost of them creeping up on $10 a can, coverage per dollar as compared to a 2K is probably a wash anymore. Plus, the increased durability of a 2k product with the compatibility of future applications. Long story short, is that I'm sure there are many spray guns out there that are just as easy to clean and use as the HF's, but my bad experience with the earlier type held me back for many years, because I lumped all of them into one basket as being difficult for a novice to work with.

Edit* Going back and seeing the Preval sprayer, I thought I should add this. For spot spraying epoxy after a weld-repair or to seal up some small areas they work decent as long as they are warm enough. Below 70 or so, the propellant cools the canister as it is being expended and it becomes hard to get a good spray pattern as the material is cold. I pretty much gave up on them when I got a decent gun set up that worked. I've probably bought 15 of them the last couple of years and got a "that went well" feeling 3-4 of those times. Several times I just ended up dumping the contents in the spray gun to finish the job.

[Wikid61]

These work. Also put the spray bomb cans into a hot bucket of water for better flow.

[68 C10 Driver]

I spray bombed a 1971 MG Midget back in the 80s using Krylon Chevy Engine Orange...it was actually really close to the original color. I would paint a panel, then wet sand it after 24 hours, then follow-up with another coat and wet sand it again. I would do that 3 times per panel. Sounds like a lot, but Midgets are small. Took 2 cans per panel (the hood took 3) and would finish off with a final wet sanding and polishing. Used carnuba wax when done. The car looked new. No one believed it was Krylon out of a can.

Cool thing was touch-up paint was cheap and easy to come by!

[special-K]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

Only problem with using Rustoleum or Krylon spray bombs is it don’t last long in the elements . If I were to use it I would use the farm implement paint with the hardner . But your back to using a spray gun.

Yeah, it's great to use if you want a quick patina job. The sun eats it up. I spray bomb my metal lawn chairs. They dull up, fade in shades lick natural patina, and spots come loose to show what's beneath. It's real patina in a couple years of sitting out

[special-K]

Originally Posted by Wikid61

These work. Also put the spray bomb cans into a hot bucket of water for better flow.

Those are finger savers. The Rustoleum Ultra buttons are, too, and a wider spray pattern. I would clear over any body if I painted one. But not too sure, other than Rustoleum's, how well a good clear would bond

On another note. I still have an unopened gallon of Medium Gold Poly acrylic enamel, reducer, and additives left over from when I painted my '70 C/20 in '89. I think about using that but I'm kinda worried it might be a bad idea. Any thoughts? With an HVLP system it should stretch it out enough for a truck? Maybe buy a quart of single stage urethane for interior and inside bed

[special-K]

Originally Posted by PbFut

I have been using the Rust-oleum 2 in 1 automotive filler primer on the truck for the past few months. I can do a section at a time when I want. It takes a lot of cans but the result to my very inexperienced eye is good. The reason for cans over bulk and a gun is no clean up. I was told it can react if not fully cured but I don't have to worry about that given how slow I am going.

I stripped and spray bomb primed the cab, doors, and front clip on my /67 project at least 10 years ago. I'm considering priming and painting over that when the time comes and I have painter friend saying I'll be sorry. Why? Slow cure time. Well, is that a problem here? I want to sand it, and use the proper sand/seal primer for the paint I'd be using. I originally primed because I wanted to strip to bare to see what I had and be ahead on prep for "someday". I guess I figured I'd sand it off. But now I'm considering leaving the bodywork be and using Hot Rod Flatz Red Oxide paint just to get the truck assembled and on the road. I may never go further. If I can move forward with proper body work and nice paint it will only be that. But as it is, all that has been holding me up forever

[raggedjim]

Originally Posted by special-K

Those are finger savers. The Rustoleum Ultra buttons are, too, and a wider spray pattern. I would clear over any body if I painted one. But not too sure, other than Rustoleum's, how well a good clear would bond

On another note. I still have an unopened gallon of Medium Gold Poly acrylic enamel, reducer, and additives left over from when I painted my '70 C/20 in '89. I think about using that but I'm kinda worried it might be a bad idea. Any thoughts? With an HVLP system it should stretch it out enough for a truck? Maybe buy a quart of single stage urethane for interior and inside bed

I'd open it up, stir the crap out of it, and spray some test panels with it. You'll know if it's not going to work. It will look ugly when you open it, you could take it to Lowes and have them put it on the shaker for a while. Ain't going to hurt to try.

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by special-K

Those are finger savers. The Rustoleum Ultra buttons are, too, and a wider spray pattern. I would clear over any body if I painted one. But not too sure, other than Rustoleum's, how well a good clear would bond

On another note. I still have an unopened gallon of Medium Gold Poly acrylic enamel, reducer, and additives left over from when I painted my '70 C/20 in '89. I think about using that but I'm kinda worried it might be a bad idea. Any thoughts? With an HVLP system it should stretch it out enough for a truck? Maybe buy a quart of single stage urethane for interior and inside bed

The paint and reducer should be fine . I would be concerned about the additives the hardner does have a shelf life . Maybe just get some new hardner and shoot it .

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by kwmech

I've got the wonderful original GM peeling paint on my 91 Suburban. Maybe this could be a solution for the impending incoming rust. Will have to check into application

Ya know, it's funny, but my '68 C/10 Stepside in 516 Orange has been exposed to the AZ sun for over 50 years, and it's still orange. But trucks 20 or 30 years younger have pealing paint, exposing galvanized steel panels below.
They must have changed up the paint formula. No more lead, maybe?

I like my patina-d Orange truck, but some replacement fenders will need an artist to make the finish match. I don't want a shiny fresh paint job.