47-59 59 Apache 3100 clutch gets "stuck"

[BlouDon]

My 59 Apache 3100 with the 235ci 6 cyl engine is 99.9% original.

When its been standing for too long (approx 2 months), I find that when I want to drive it again, the clutch does not release when I depress the clutch pedal.

To remedy this situation, I learned to first put it in 3rd gear, then depress the clutch and then turn the key to crank the engine. This would then get the clutch unstuck and I could then drive normally.

But recently..... This method did not succeed at freeing up the clutch. Its been standing too long between drives. I resorted to cranking the engine until it fired up, by now we were moving along in reverse, and then I slammed on the brakes. The idea was to use the inertia of the flywheel against a rapidly decelerating clutch. With a rather loud and violent BANG, this freed up the clutch. Not pleasant.

It is rather humid where I stay and the truck does not get driven often. I suspect that the clutch plate actually rusts itself stuck onto the flywheel and or pressure plate.

1. Is this known to happen with these trucks?
2. Anything I can do to prevent this from happening other than starting it more often?
3. In the event that should neither of the above methods work, would that imply an engine and or transmission removal situation?

[leegreen]

Try using something to wedge the clutch pedal down when stored. This is a somewhat common practise with old tractors.

Do you have the cover in place on bottom of bellhousing?

[Hcb3200]

2 Months is not that long for things to get that kind of stuck. Unless that pressure plate mating surface and other areas are really bad shape.
Leaving the clutch pushed it will help till it can be reviewed.

Did you rebuilt/restore that truck or someone else?
If you did. Was the clutch overhauled?

This sound more like you need to have flywheel and plate pulled and looked at.
Turned or replaced and cleaned up.

Here is a decent video of it being done. Very interesting use of bread at the
4:30 mark.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zybh49AXnC0

[dsraven]

well, thats a first. i usually use grease and a solid punch instead of a hollow socket. maybe I've been doing it wrong all these years.
I gotta say, if the clutch is sticking badly after a short time parked then it would be a good idea to first check all the linkage for problems and if nothing found then it is likely a good idea to have the clutch taken out and inspected/replaced and also have the pilot bearing replaced. check the trans input shaft and the crank bore where the pilot bearing rides to see if there has been a problem there that may have caused an issue. I have seen pilot bearings/bushings that get siezed up slightly and cause shifting iissueswith grinding that seems like the clutch wasn't pushed in when shifting but not so bad they feel like a stuck clutch when starting the engine. curious what the clutch adjustment rod looks like, maybe adjusted a lot to indicate a nearly worn out clutch so the clutch disc friction material rivets are rusting to the flywheel over a short time. thats a very long shot though. does the clutch hold tight or do you notice it may slip a bit under a hard load, indicating it's worn out? are there any shifting difficulties when driving?
if it were me I would pull the inspection cover off and look for visual indicators. if nothing found then pull the clutch, replace the disc, cover and release bearing, resurface the flywheel, check the trans input shaft for wear and the release bearing collar on the trans for wear where the bearing rides, renew what looks suspect and assemble. ensure to check/replace any linkage that is worn as well.
your truck looks awesome.

[mr48chev]

I'd say that if it works fine after you break it loose your assumption is correct.

If that is the case, the simple fix is drive it more often but a lot of times due to work schedules that isn't possible. I've got friends who work on cargo ships and friends who work on the oil pipelines in Alaska who are gone for several weeks or a couple of months at a time.

The other fix would be to come up with a setup to keep the pedal pushed down when it sits and that could be a block of wood cut to length to use inside the cab or between the foot board and clutch arm under the hood. You need a helper to push the pedal down to stick the block in under the hood though. I'd try that as it is zero cost except for the time to dig out a piece of wood or other material to make the piece to hold the pedal down.

[dsraven]

if you end up getting under it also check the release fork and pivot ball for wear or damage.
with a truck that clean it may have been pressure washed even up inside the bellhousing, getting rid of any lube that would be on the release fork ball etc. the visual check doesn't take long, gives a good idea of how much lining is left (if you know where to look) and if it looks good then possibly cut a length of lumber to wedge the pedal down and try that. if problems persist then it looks like tear down time. really, with an open driveline, the right tools and a place to work, thats a quick job.

[dmb]

Wedge the clutch pedal down when it will be setting. And when you drive it take off in high gear a few times this will wear off the rust on the flywheel and disk.
This was a common problem years ago when the used cars sat on the lot for a long time

[mr48chev]

On the stock straight six truck you shouldn't have to get under the truck to put a block between the clutch arm and the toe board, Make it about a half inch shorter than full clutch pedal to the floor travel and it should drop out on the garage floor when you get into the truck and push the pedal to the floor. Just a 1x2 the right length. At least try that and see what the results are the next time you get in it to drive it.

[1project2many]

It is rather humid where I stay and the truck does not get driven often. I suspect that the clutch plate actually rusts itself stuck onto the flywheel and or pressure plate.

1. Is this known to happen with these trucks?

It is known to happen with manual transmission vehicles. Many of the older vehicles would end up with traces of grease or oil on the flywheel which can slow corrosion.

2. Anything I can do to prevent this from happening other than starting it more often?

As mentioned, wedging the pedal may help. I suppose a creative person could use something like WD40 or another water soluble protectant to slow the rust.

3. In the event that should neither of the above methods work, would that imply an engine and or transmission removal situation?

Yes, in the worst case scenario. But often leaving the engine running for some time and the transmission in neutral can warm the flywheel and help free the disc.

[nvrdone]

I've had the same problem with the clutch in my '49. When I park it for the winter I use an old trailer screw jack to hold the clutch pedal down. Just mount it between the pedal and the seat base and twist it down.

[dsraven]

a block of wood, cut with a slot in one side the width of the pedal arm, will work as a spacer between the firewall and the pedal arm on the engine side of the firewall. have somebody step on the clutch so it is at the floor, measure the dimension between the floor and the pedal arm, make the block with that dimension. next measure the dimension from the seat base to the clutch pedal when it is on the floor and make up another piece of wood to fill that void. step on the clutch, slip in the long peice of wood to hold the pedal down. then slip in under the hood and put the short piece in. then the long piece can be removed. this will keep the pedal close to the floor while it is stored without worry that the block is gonna damage something inside the truck, upholstery and whatnot. when tthe truck is started and the clutch pedal is stepped on the little block of wood should fall out and be retrievable for the next use.
or just use the longer piece and leave it stuck between the seat base and the pedal, forget about the short piece and the associated dirty work, lol.
there are shop tools made for this use for mechanics to use. they are more or less a rod that is shaped to hold over the pedal well and have an adjustable part for length. they are not usually made to hold the weight of a clutch pedal but you could fab one up that would hold. some have a mechanism like a caulking gun to adjust and hold the length. wheel alignment, brake light checks etc was what they were intended for.
https://www.cromwell.co.th/shop/auto.../p/KEN5031910K

[dsraven]

possibly an old steering wheel lock could be used to hold the pedal down.
https://www.amazon.ca/CARTMAN-Heavy-...%2C335&sr=8-55

[leegreen]

newer IRWIN QUICK-GRIP clamps can be reversed to work as spreaders, or you could cut up and reweld an old one.

some plywood cut to a shape that would fit under brake pedal and hold clutch down with a broom stick handle on it might also be a solution

[dsraven]

great idea LG

[mr48chev]

I didn't think of pushing down from the wheel. I just figured that he didn't want something pushing against the seat for that length of time as it would leave an imprint on the seat. I was also thinking that the wood block was no money spent to experiment and no going out and looking for something.

[BlouDon]

Thanks for all the input gents, much appreciated. Holding the clutch down will be my course of action.