What's up with my door lock?

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

The RH door lock assembly works like it's supposed to (locked/unlocked) when the door's open.

When the door is closed it doesn't work. Even in a locked position, simply pressing on the exterior door handle button unlocks the cylinder. That and the cylinder is real touchy (locked/unlocked) when trying to lock the door with the door closed.

Cylinder pawl is between latch fork, I don't see a problem. Perhaps it's a bad latch?, hmmm.. Thanks for any suggestions.

Edit, if a worn latch is the culprit, does anyone recommend a good replacement that's black or even better phosphate like the old ones? Good chance I'll look for NOS, but OER possible. Thanks

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

The RH door lock assembly works like it's supposed to (locked/unlocked) when the door's open.

When the door is closed it doesn't work. Even in a locked position, simply pressing on the exterior door handle button unlocks the cylinder. That and the cylinder is real touchy (locked/unlocked) when trying to lock the door with the door closed.

Cylinder pawl is between latch fork, I don't see a problem. Perhaps it's a bad latch?, hmmm.. Thanks for any suggestions.

Edit, if a worn latch is the culprit, does anyone recommend a good replacement that's black or even better phosphate like the old ones? Good chance I'll look for NOS, but OER possible. Thanks

The reason it unlocks when you push the button in is because the locking mechanisim is not engaged all the way. The first thing I would try is to push in on the door before you turn the key to lock it and see what that does.

Also, the lock pawl on the back of the lock cylinder may be worn or bent. If you don't have the door panel off you can lube the lock and latch by rolling the window down and spraying some penetrating oil into the opening at the back of the glass channel. If you use a good flashlight you can see the lock and latch through that opening at the back of the glass. Also spray a little of the penetrating oil into the lock cylinder.
.

[jocko]

Leon, I hope you know what a national asset you are to us old truck farts

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by jocko

Leon, I hope you know what a national asset you are to us old truck farts

You can say that again. Ironic too, how many people would even know to......

I followed Doctor's orders. With the door closed, I put under 10 lbs. of pressure on the ext. door handle, pushing the door in, as I locked it with the key. Hmm, what the heck, that worked. Wow, just like that huh, Doc knew that as a clue.

I actually lubed this lock per doc's prior instructions, with silicone. That's how I remember it anyway. The lock is a newish Doc special, which I installed maybe 2 years ago. Perhaps I didn't lube the inside joint, where the pawl attaches, which I hit tonight, and I sprayed more into the cylinder, through the key hole. Edit: Results? somewhat. Seems I often have to put a little pressure on the door to lock it. Hmm. Perhaps lube wasn't it. I wonder what's loose.

I had taken the panel off for this problem, takes all of 10 minutes. Here's what it looks like, for what worth. Lock clip is only greased for easy install/remove. I'll hit the latch with more grease before I assemble the door, call it good enough for now.

I have to say, my doors don't shut quite like they once did, with worn out parts and such, like door weather strip. It's my opinion, that perhaps the 4/2.5 drop is a contributor as well, and just because the door positions sit > former doesn't mean the latches and strikers catch better. I did reinstall my old latches, just cleaned. Everything else "new". Fair chance I'll replace both latches someday, probably should look now.

[BROWN 70]

x 10 for lock doc!

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by jocko

Leon, I hope you know what a national asset you are to us old truck farts

Thanks. I only know this stuff because I have had the same problems in the past and had to figure out a solution.

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

You can say that again. Ironic too, how many people would even know to......

I followed Doctor's orders. With the door closed, I put under 10 lbs. of pressure on the ext. door handle, pushing the door in, as I locked it with the key. Hmm, what the heck, that worked. Wow, just like that huh, Doc knew that as a clue.

I actually lubed this lock per doc's prior instructions, with silicone. That's how I remember it anyway. The lock is a newish Doc special, which I installed maybe 2 years ago. Perhaps I didn't lube the inside joint, where the pawl attaches, which I hit tonight, and I sprayed more into the cylinder, through the key hole. Edit: Results? somewhat. Seems I often have to put a little pressure on the door to lock it. Hmm. Perhaps lube wasn't it. I wonder what's loose.

I had taken the panel off for this problem, takes all of 10 minutes. Here's what it looks like, for what worth. Lock clip is only greased for easy install/remove. I'll hit the latch with more grease before I assemble the door, call it good enough for now.

I have to say, my doors don't shut quite like they once did, with worn out parts and such, like door weather strip. It's my opinion, that perhaps the 4/2.5 drop is a contributor as well, and just because the door positions sit > former doesn't mean the latches and strikers catch better. I did reinstall my old latches, just cleaned. Everything else "new". Fair chance I'll replace both latches someday, probably should look now.

Some people say that a worn out latch will cause this problem also.

Originally Posted by BROWN 70

x 10 for lock doc!

Thanks for the support.
.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Update: Heck I don't know, it seems to work now, hmm. I bought new latches any way

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Update: Heck I don't know, it seems to work now, hmm. I bought new latches any way

Well at least you won't have to change them immediately....