67 C10 new bed floor not lining up mside to side

[vikingsandpintos]

I am helping my daughter with her 67 C10. She is converting it from a long bed to short bed. We got the kit from Brothers Truck Parts, to shorten the frame.

We got that done. We couldn't find a decent used short bed, so we bought all the parts from NPD to put one together.

We set the floor on the frame, to see how it fit. We lined it up with the frame holes and brackets, and dropped the bolts thru the floor. But the whole floor is about 3/4" too far to the right!

I measured from the back of the cab to the rear bumper, measures the same on both sides. Didn't have any issues doing the frame plates when we cut and shortened the frame. Pulled the bolts back out of the floor, and did some shifting around with the floor. I got it where it looks like it should be, same gaps between cab and floor, and floor and bumper, on both sides. The floor is shifted 3/4" to the left, to center it correctly, measuring off the frame on each side to verify it is centered.

The bolts now don't go thru the frame and brackets. It looks like I will have to elongate the holes, and at that I'm not sure there is enough material to make a big enough hole. I can weld some plates or half washers, ect, to widen the mounts enough for holes, as that looks like my only option to be able to center the bed.

Has anyone else had an issue with aftermarket floors being off that much? I'm not sure what else it could be, other than the floor itself having the holes made off slightly. Just seeing if anyone else has had this problem? Thanks1

[howzzzit]

Of all the aftermarket sheet metal I've installed the only piece that was perfect is the new bed floor. Inner fender and wheel tubs were awful. I don't know if this will help, but I measure right at 31 1/2 inches ctc between the four rear bed bolts. This is measuring the top of the carriage bolt. The bed I used is Dynacorn and like I said it fit perfectly. I bought a bed front at the same time. A real turd. Sold it and had my original repaired. Good luck. Mine is a 72 C10. Didn't verify, but aren't they the same?

[vikingsandpintos]

Yep, my bolt holes measure the same as your apart. So the holes in relation to each other seem ok, its just like they are all off to the side. I'm going to start test fitting the panels together to see if that's all ok.

Don't see any issues with the sides, as far as condition. But the front panel is beat to h***, smh. Almost all the edges and corners bent, and the whole thing bowed a little. I'm going to try and straighten it with a 2x4 and a little pressure kneeling or standing on it. I had to do that with an aftermarket hood for my 72 Mustang when I got it. It's a known issue with those, the arch front to back is too much. and have to use the 2x4 method on them normally.

I wish the aftermarket quality was better on parts, but it is what it is. I guess we should be lucky they are making even low quality parts, better than no parts at all, lol. Original 50 year old body panels are not going to get any easier to find!

At least her truck is a driver, not a show car, so she isn't too worried about perfect. Just wants it to look decent. Maybe once we get hers drivable, I can get back on the Mustang. Been torn apart for probably 7-8 years now, and I'm not getting any younger. Just everything else seems to get put in front of it. Oh, to have unlimited time and money, lol!!

[LS short box]

My short box parts were all aftermarket except for a mint stock tail gate I found locally. The wood for the bed came from a vendor on this web site but I believe he doesn't sell the wood any longer.
Have you squared up the box itself corner to corner?
I had slot a few holes a bit but all in all the sheet metal was good.
Got any pics of you box with the wood installed?
Pic of my box.

[vikingsandpintos]

I don't have any pics yet, I haven't tried to assemble anything yet other place floor on the frame. This is an all steel bed, not wood floor.

BTW, yours looks very nice!

[LS short box]

Sorry I was thinking you had a wood bed.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by vikingsandpintos

We set the floor on the frame, to see how it fit. We lined it up with the frame holes and brackets, and dropped the bolts thru the floor. But the whole floor is about 3/4" too far to the right!

I measured from the back of the cab to the rear bumper, measures the same on both sides. Didn't have any issues doing the frame plates when we cut and shortened the frame. Pulled the bolts back out of the floor, and did some shifting around with the floor. I got it where it looks like it should be, same gaps between cab and floor, and floor and bumper, on both sides. The floor is shifted 3/4" to the left, to center it correctly, measuring off the frame on each side to verify it is centered.

Is it possible to set the floor on a frame that hasn't been shortened?? If the floor fits that frame, you'll know your frame is off. If it doesn't fit, then you'll know the problem is with the floor..

If the floor is actually defective, confront the provider/vendor.. At best they should replace the floor.. Second choice would be a partial refund.

If you decide to use the floor, here's a suggestion.. Don't elongate any holes.. This will eventually allow the bed to shift around some.. Either move the frame brackets to align with the existing holes in the floor, or do the following...

Second procedure would be, using a 2 1/2" hole saw, remove the metal surrounding the holes.. Fabricate patch panels, including shaping the ridges and "valleys", to fit in the holes.. Drill new holes and be done with it.

[vikingsandpintos]

I don't know of any other frames around here to try that with. I'll mess with it more this weekend to see what my plan of attack will be. Thanks for the suggestions!

[SCOTI]

You mentioned measuring the distance between the bolts....

How about measuring the floor from the 'through' holes where the bolts go to the edges on each side. See if those dimensions are the same as well.