55.2-59 Dome light

[popeyestruck]

I have the AAW wiring kit installed with the courtesy switch in the door. The door switch work good but the dome light is grounding out thru the socket. Its a one orange wire light with the ground going thru the door switches. I think all I need is a plastic socket that wont get a ground. I either need a source for a 1 wire socket or a 1 wire whole new dome light. All the dome lights online are showing 2 wires. Can I use a 2 wire dome light and just not use the white ground?

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by popeyestruck

I have the AAW wiring kit installed with the courtesy switch in the door. The door switch work good but the dome light is grounding out thru the socket. Its a one orange wire light with the ground going thru the door switches. I think all I need is a plastic socket that wont get a ground. I either need a source for a 1 wire socket or a 1 wire whole new dome light. All the dome lights online are showing 2 wires. Can I use a 2 wire dome light and just not use the white ground?

I'm not absolutely positive how the factory dome light is wired in on a '59.. But here's how the AAW dome light circuit works..


From the fuse box, the orange wire carries current to the dome light bulb. The dome light housing is plastic, the bulb socket is not grounded through the housing.. The current passes through the bulb filament, through the white wire to the door switch.. The white wire is the ground path and if it touches a ground source anywhere, the dome light will come on.. Don't be confused when you check voltages.. When the door is closed or the door switch is deactivated, voltage will appear on both the orange wire and white wire, that's normal.. The voltage on the white wire has "passed through" the bulb and is "seeking" a ground path in order to complete the circuit..

[popeyestruck]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

I'm not absolutely positive how the factory dome light is wired in on a '59.. But here's how the AAW dome light circuit works..


From the fuse box, the orange wire carries current to the dome light bulb. The dome light housing is plastic, the bulb socket is not grounded through the housing.. The current passes through the bulb filament, through the white wire to the door switch.. The white wire is the ground path and if it touches a ground source anywhere, the dome light will come on.. Don't be confused when you check voltages.. When the door is closed or the door switch is deactivated, voltage will appear on both the orange wire and white wire, that's normal.. The voltage on the white wire has "passed through" the bulb and is "seeking" a ground path in order to complete the circuit..

Theres the problem. My dome light it metal as is the socket. It works as it should until I screw the domelight to the cab. The paint keeps the current from flowing but the screws go thru the paint into the metal cab. The dome light works as long as I dont screw it in. I need an insulated socket

[Hcb3200]

run positive power to switch then up to light.

run manual turn on from headlight switch port to the light side of the door switch wire. This way you can manually turn it on.
This only works if your on side of your headlight switch is power and not ground.

Use light/switch screw to cab as ground.

no need for a new socket type.

[popeyestruck]

I think I'm just going to insulate the socket from the dome light . I'd like it to work with the courtesy lights

[dsraven]

you could also try a bulb with a dual contact in the socket, just a pigtail and bulb swap. then one contact is power and the other is ground.
the bulb is a dual contact-single circuit bulb. not every parts place would have one. might be worth the trip to match something up to your old bulb size if it interests you. they were quite common in the 6volt vehicles and I have used them lots on highway trucks (but that was a long time ago, lol)

[dsraven]

if memory serves me correctly they were a 1004 bulb. the little spikes on the side that holds it in the socket were directly opposite each other, not offset like an 1157 bulb.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by popeyestruck

Theres the problem. My dome light it metal as is the socket. It works as it should until I screw the domelight to the cab. The paint keeps the current from flowing but the screws go thru the paint into the metal cab. The dome light works as long as I dont screw it in. I need an insulated socket

And for $15.00 your problem is solved...

https://www.classicindustries.com/pr...ts/cx1042.html

[mr48chev]

I'm thinking from looking at this diagram that 1project2many posted and from what memory says that the dome light is turned on by turning the head light switch all the way clockwise until it clicks and that grounds the dome light. If the dome light is working right and is the correct dome light.

You do have the correct dome light? We are discussing a 59 truck?

[popeyestruck]

Yeah thats what my light looks like but where the socket goes into the back of the fixture it looks like someone tore the socket out and replaced it. Its jagged metal and the socket has clips on it like the ones in the gauge cluster. I took the bulb out and electrical taped the socket and put it back together. I still have the underdash courtesy lights working as they should. I'll have to find either an all plastic socket or a plastic dome light that won't conduct electricity but for now its OK

[mr48chev]

Someone in the past probably wired it off a switch if they made it so it grounds. You are a long way from the first guy battling something that someone either changed around to work the way they wanted or did a cheap fix that didn't work when all was said and done.