Upgraded cab insulation discussion

[PbFut]

Continuing with the fire damage, I ended up stripping the firewall engine side to metal with wire wheel and epoxy prime.
The interior side of firewall got so hot it charcoaled the jute insulation of the center section OEM pad and a bit of the inside cowl jute and a small part of the left pad in area of gas pedal. A question for those who have upgraded the insulation. Was it worth it? Does laying the rubberized material behind the gas tank add any benefit? Floor? The cab is gutted except tank. Now is the time to do the extra insulation if it is worth it. I need to watch my add-ons to this repair or a blown bank account could easily come about. Seems this stuff does add up so I am looking for input.
Thanks for help

[PbFut]

No opinions?

[A1971Blazer]

I did a build from scratch, so the inner firewall was bare metal. I used Lizard Skin heat coating as well as the sound deadener coating. I also glued on 3/8" thick jute insulation with the foil on both sides, as high as I could get it up under the dash.
I don't have a comparison, but it's cool and quiet.
In your case, if it was me, I would use the self adhesive (Dynamat, Fat Mat, etc) then perhaps add a layer of ¼" jute over that everywhere it was feasible.

[LS short box]

This is what my 68 Cab looked like before the carpet went down. First layer was Hush Mat. Second layer is double sided foil jute insulation. Then the stock carpet. I'm running headers with my LS swaps and I think it really helps.
Also under the cab over the header area I use insulation from DEI. One side is kind of like a dimpled foil. Then in the middle kind of a fiberglass insulation and then super sticky glue to stick it to the sheet metal.

[1970cstblazer]

I used Dynamat on my Blazer. It is quieter in the cabin than it ever was!

[D.B]

I sprayed the interior of my 72 C20 with lizard skin sound deadener and also the heat barrier. Then I applied a layer of the Flat Line Barrier. My carpet with jute backing over all of this. Best thing I ever did for the interior of the truck. It is now super quiet and virtually no floorboard or firewall heat from the exhaust or engine. I run headers with 3" exhaust and 40 series flow masters. No problem talking to anyone and I don't have to crank the radio up to listen to it.

[PbFut]

Really good input. The lizard skin product under the dynamat sounds like a really nice way to go. I would be looking at 500 plus for the lizard and gun and another 250 for the dynamat. Then the jute and carpet. I am not sure I want a Cadillac truck relative to noise isolation. Heat is more my issue. I prefer engine over music noise anyway.

[Richard]

Originally Posted by PbFut

Really good input. The lizard skin product under the dynamat sounds like a really nice way to go. I would be looking at 500 plus for the lizard and gun and another 250 for the dynamat. Then the jute and carpet. I am not sure I want a Cadillac truck relative to noise isolation. Heat is more my issue. I prefer engine over music noise anyway.

Used the Lizard Skin heat product and also the sound formula then applied a Quiet Ride Solutions firewall cover. Pics start on page 11, post 259 in my build thread. The sound treatment should go on the metal first and any heat product applied over that for best results.

[weq92f]

.

p/o of my truck had laid down the home store roll of kill-matt stuff. It didn't do anything for heat so on top of that I put a layer of foil-on-both sides insulation (not expensive) and topped it with the full jute backed carpeting.

This and later sealing up firewall leaks and the kick vents tamped down the heat problem pretty good!

-Kevin