dumb question about inner wheel bearings

[PanhandleShantyman]

Ok I did a newbie thing and took my front inner wheel bearings out for the first time for inspection without noticing which way the inner seals were put in. Now I'm really not sure which way to orient the new ones. Which way is it? Picture one or picture two? Thanks, I'm dumb. (This is from my 1969 C1500.)

[Smitty]

Window 2. We all learn as we go!

[Getter-Done]

Picture 2.

[jaros44sr]

I don’t know, I have for wheel drive but I would choose “or” since I want to see the rest of the truck

Looks like you got your answer above ^^^^

[Stocker]

As stated, #2.... If you're unsure or you don't have the correct tool, the outer surface of the seal should be flush with the outer surface of the hub.

[Getter-Done]

There are applications for grease seals and dust seal on Stuff.

This is a Grease seal.

The way I was taught is the Spring pressure does the work.

If the spring is toward the inside of the hub it holds the grease in.

If the spring is on the outside it is keeping the dust out and this is mostly the case on tractor front wheel bearings.

[PanhandleShantyman]

Thanks all!

The seal doesn't want to go down flush with the hub though. I tapped it in to start, then used an aluminum bearing/seal driver and pounded it trying to get it flush, but that crumpled the edge of the first seal I put in. I pulled that out and put another one in and just tapped it carefully with a piece of wood between it and the hammer till it doesn't want to go in any more, but it's still sitting a fair bit higher than the hub... These are supposedly NOS seals, they have the same embossed markings including part number as the ones I pulled out, but are a little taller. Did the size of this part change over the years? It doesn't seem to interfere with the spindle mating appropriately to the hub, so I guess I'll just roll with it, but it seems kinda weird.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by PanhandleShantyman

Thanks all!

The seal doesn't want to go down flush with the hub though. I tapped it in to start, then used an aluminum bearing/seal driver and pounded it trying to get it flush, but that crumpled the edge of the first seal I put in. I pulled that out and put another one in and just tapped it carefully with a piece of wood between it and the hammer till it doesn't want to go in any more, but it's still sitting a fair bit higher than the hub... These are supposedly NOS seals, they have the same embossed markings including part number as the ones I pulled out, but are a little taller. Did the size of this part change over the years? It doesn't seem to interfere with the spindle mating appropriately to the hub, so I guess I'll just roll with it, but it seems kinda weird.

In my experience the radius of the seal will protrude just a little.

The main thing that needs to be focused on is that the Bearing Race is Fully seated.

[LNP]

I'm late to the party but as said picture 2 tap in until flush with rotor hub Dont forget to grease it up good. Never install a dry seal no matter where it goes. Dry seals fail prematurely. Have fun

[MikeB]

Correct tool could be a 2x4! Whatever you use, the idea is to not chase the seal around the perimeter.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by MikeB

Correct tool could be a 2x4! Whatever you use, the idea is to not chase the seal around the perimeter.

I remember punching sleeves into a John Deere diesel tractor engine (4020?) back in the '70s (my first time), and trying to find out "the right way". The manual actually showed a 2" X 4" on top of the sleeve getting pounded by a hammer! Can't make this stuff up!

[MikeB]

I remember chasing around an inner wheel bearing seal for several minutes, then I called a friend who told me about the 2x4 trick. That was 30-40 years ago, and I still use it when a few plastic mallet taps don't get the job done.