Moody's Utah 58 Apache

[_Ogre]

that hornet nest is what nightmares are made of...

i suggest you throw the front fenders on to check alignment to the doors. everything can be shimmed and typically was from the factory. you can shim the rad support with washers, or either cab mount. a couple years ago, martinsr posted a pic from the 57 of factory adjustment method of closing the door on a piece of oak before going into the paint shop.

if the top back of the door is jammed to the frame while everything else works, you can jack the door pillar/firewall forward. my cab was dropped on the firewall, luckily we had an old school body guy working in the shop at the time. he'd jack a bit and then go around the frame with a 5lb hammer relieving stress. any impact to the front can do the same.

if you've removed the trans mount x-member, this can also lead to the front cab mounts sagging down and pinching fenders to doors gap.

[alexMoody]

Well, long time no post, I moved into a much larger house and have space and do not have to pull the truck out of the covered area to work on it. I actually have a garage now that I can work in. I had to run a new sub panel so I could get my welder working.

I did some more rust repair on the cab. There was a surprising amount of old newspaper behind the bondo on this side. It went up in flames quickly. I also got 16 gauge steel to do the inner cab corner delete. I have seen a few post pictures and it just looks classy, and also because the inner cab corners are bad too. I have to do the front passenger cab corner, the part where the front fender mounts to the cab was to far gone on that side. Parts are ordered along with door hinge bushings and a few various other items.

I was also given a 305 motor that is complete. I should be getting that by the end of the month I'm not sure if the transmission will come with it or not but I can at least use the sm420? Or at least from other threads I have read I can with a different bellhousing.

[alexMoody]

Its been a minute but I've got progress and questions.

Got the corners replaced and inner cab corner plates in. Carpet and and interior seals put in and have started the electrical. I'm using a painless kit and have come to the point of the turn signals. I have a signal stat 800 and I've looked through a few others post about it. I just want to make sure I'm understanding this 3 prong flasher part before I continue.

The instructions say to splice the two purple wires on the flasher side of the fuse box together and this is done with butt connectors. Then on the clamp on part of the instructions it says to have purple wire #952 go to the lead "x" of the flasher. The Blue wire coming off the signal stat 800 goes to the light on the switch which would be "p" and then the Yellow would be the power for the switch that would go to "L". ? As always thanks for the advice and tips. Ill do another post with progress pictures.

Pictures for reference

[alexMoody]

Here are some more progress pictures.

[Bigt94550]

Alex, would you please post a pic of how you mounted the fuse block on the painless kit? That's the step I am on and looking for ideas.
Troy

[alexMoody]

Originally Posted by Bigt94550

Alex, would you please post a pic of how you mounted the fuse block on the painless kit? That's the step I am on and looking for ideas.
Troy

Yeah, I made a bracket out of 1/8 that stepped off the firewall about 1 inch and I used 1/4-20 bolts to attach it. I used a nut setter on the firewall.

The second picture has the wires coming down, that was just for mock up, they have been moved to come out the top of the bracket or the "U" part.

You can obviously mount it where ever you like. I went with the "easy to get to" route.

[dsraven]

nice clean work. thanks for posting your pics.

[bowt1ed]

I made a similar bracket, but it uses the hood hinge bolts in lieu of drilling more holes in firewall. Cheers, Jim

[Bigt94550]

Thanks Jim and Alex. I was leaning the hood hinge bolts way, but the visuals are super helpful.